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Northeasterners and Canadians: opinions wanted

1030 Views 11 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  drew1987

my tundra is everything I’ve ever wanted in a truck. I love it. Zero rust but now it’s in Rochester - the first or second saltiest climate on earth.

it’s down to Krown, fluid film (diy) or simply draining the oil straight into a garden sprayer when it’s around 120°f and soaking the chassis a few times during fall and winter. As well as inside doors and i guess inside rockers.

what have you all done and what are your opinions:advice?

I’d like to see it hit 500,000. Can’t do that if it disintegrates


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Here's my take. Years back I was at a buddies place and another friend pulled up. His truck was absolutely mint, not a spec of rust so I asked if he washed it every single day or what. He said he had never washed it ever. At the time I was driving an 85 F150. I said ok but mine is 18 years old and had 285 k's on it. He said his Mazda was 16 years old and had 310 k's on it. I said ok so WTF are you doing that I am not. Krown was his answer. Been taking my stuff there ever since and I can tell you it works. And I am an hour west of Toronto so yes, also lived in the salt belt my whole life.
My suggestion- Get krowned once because they will drill all the holes for you at no extra cost, then just go buy a 5 gallon pail next year and do it yourself if you really want to do it yourself. I like to do my own stuff on my truck but crawling around on my back getting soaked in oil is one I wont do.
I would suggest not spraying it with used motor oil. Used oil has some nasty solvents in it that can eat some forms of plastic and rubber, like as in stuff on your truck. Plus it will eat holes in asphalt driveways, krown wont. And even for environmental reasons, its just not a good idea to spray that stuff on your truck and have it leach into the ground.
And the best time to spray it is actually in the late spring time so another suggestion would be do it now, then again next May, then only once a year after that in May.
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this is exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for, thank you so much!

I’m not sure my truck knows that it isn’t me LOL seems you are only 70 miles or so away from here as a bird would fly, yesterday I was swimming in Lake Ontario with my kids! I enjoyed the fall foliage from the lake with swim trunks on. Amazing. I will call krown. I did not know that motor oil could hurt things underneath the truck. I know this to be an effective method with dirt to solidify the oil, because that’s what the first owner did on my 1950 Chevy. There is about a quarter inch of dirt/oil all over the underside of it, which happens to be all steel of the good virgin American quality; no rubber or plastic to ruin.
As for environmental, even though I am not opting for oil at this point, I do promise that my plan was to spray the oil warm and let it drip off onto a tarp for at least five days before then throwing away the tarp and driving the truck on any dirt roads I can find… Was hoping to keep it to less than a teaspoon dripped onto the ground kind of thing, but I like the idea of crown better.

This is especially important to me now, as over the last week, I have learned that the last tundra I would ever want to own was manufactured yesterday. I like a low power smooth running old fashion V8, and I like a bench seat. I guess I will be searching for 2019 and older tundras for the rest of my life. I guess a 20 or 21, but they didn’t make many…
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Here's one I didnt know till just last year. Talking to the owner of the local Krown where I go I asked him when's the best time to rustproof. He said you can drive all winter long with your black truck looking pure white from being covered in road salt but its hardly doing any damage at all. He said you need 3 things (electrolyte, heat, moisture) at the same time to form rust., Salt is the electrolyte, heat get the molecules active, and moisture to allow them to travel. Does that combo happen in the winter or the summer? So people wash their cars all winter long to remove the salt, but in the middle of summer, when all the damage is being done,does anyone ever mention road salt or rust?
Or those that park their icy cold car caked in snow in a nice warm garage in the winter time. Ever hear some say "but I park it in the garage all the time, how could it rust?". You parked your car in a humidor, what did you expect.

Thats why I suggested Krown it once now since its never been done, but going forward do it in the late spring. It will still drip and leave a bit of a mess, but it does wash off eventually. I just park my cars on the road for 3 or 4 days after I get them done.

And no, I have zero affiliation with Krown, I just know it works.

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Hey man! This is exactly what I’m looking for! Thank you so much. I booked an appointment for my truck. As we speak, I’m taking a little break from working on my wife’s van. The sad truth is, her van is in “reactive maintenance mode“ as it’s too far gone at this point to spend unnecessary money on. It will be replaced with a Sequoia or a sienna hybrid, But not until mid 2023 at the earliest is my hope. Her car is likely getting some kind of ******* homemade oil bath underneath and critical parts, nothing more. It’s not just $160 it cost to have crown do it, it’s the couple hours of my day it takes. The tundra, however, is getting crowned Monday the 25th, and it will get done June 1 next year as well
Nice work. The added bonus is repairs after the fact. Nuts and bolts generally tend to come off a lot easier when they arent welded into place with rust. LOL.
That is true! My wife and I on a car dealership, and we’ve had some really old cars come in from places that don’t have winter, and it is amazing. We have a Right Hand Dr., Toyota Carina. We bought it about 100 miles away from Kawasaki Japan. It showed up needing brakes. At almost 30 years old, I didn’t have to take the brackets to my bench and clean them. A toothbrush and brake cleaner brought them back to spec. It was amazing!

My tundra is consistent with a Rochester 2017 model or better, it came from Philadelphia, and the man or a woman who owned it was fastidious to say the least. I am anal with my vehicles probably to the point of diagnostic mental condition, and I’m getting even More over the top because I realize vehicle manufacturers aren’t producing anything I like anymore. Like the new tundra. No offense to you guys that are buying one, but I like a small V-8 with a bench seat, I don’t need a freaking television for a dashboard, and I prefer a body a little less complex than Maserati because it is going to bring in the stuff, it’s a truck
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Anyone have any experience using used ATF for rust control?

I'm in central Ohio. I had an acquaintance years back, he had restored a classic Mopar and applied used ATF liberally everywhere ...
Not sure. Pretty impressed what the motor oil did to my wife’s van. The trailer hitch is bit Honda steel so it’s worse than the rest of the van even though it’s only 6 years old and the can is 15 years old. But it have it a nice dark color and think about a cast iron skillet: they don’t rust because they are saturated in oil. My 50 Chevy was soaked in oil and didn’t rust. Underneath anyway.

my tundra is headed to Krown Monday morning. I pray it works well cause Toyota stopped making a truck I want. I need a 6 passenger….

I would beg anyone to not use rubberized. I own a car dealership and I’ve seen many cars at auctions with beautiful black chassis that upon closer look have rubber with massive chunks of rust coming off the bottom. Like a wet hand in a rubber glove. Moisture has no where to go and rubberdoesn’t stop rust.

we don’t but undercoated cara for that reason, unless it was oil like fluid film or Krown but usually we buy cars from where there is way less rust anyway. Ship them in usually. Don’t have to get to far from Rochester for an improvement. My tundra is from Philadelphia and is rust free :)
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Anyone have any experience using used ATF for rust control?

I'm in central Ohio. I had an acquaintance years back, he had restored a classic Mopar and applied used ATF liberally everywhere ...
ATF and other petroleum based products can absolutely stop rust, but they can be harmful in other ways. The can literally destroy some rubbers and plastics over time and if they get into electrical connections who knows what sort of problems they could cause.
Ever see the damage tranny fluid or motor does to an asphalt driveway?
Personally I would just rather use something that I know works to stop rust but doesnt do harm in other ways, hence why I would stick with an actual rust inhibitor product and not used oils.
All good points. I did avoid anything but rusty metal on my wife’s van, and my 50 Chevy has none of those things that could be destroyed haha
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