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Hello. First off, thanks for your collective help and wisdom. I've posted in similar forums before to get help on any number of things; hopefully, this will also be the case here.

We've owned our Toyota Certified 03 Sequoia for a number of years. We've had intermittant problems with latches, electronic and what-not, but the newest problem is really baffling me.

The rear hatch lock stopped working altogether. Used to be I could keyless lock/unlock all doors, to include the rear hatch, but now the rear hatch lock doesn't even work manually using the key. All other doors still lock using the FOB or manually; just the rear hatch doesn't lock. Q: anyone know what the problem could be?

Thanks for any time spent to help answer my question. Best Regards, Rob
 

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having the same problem with my wife's '04 sequoia. haven't found any solution in the forums yet. me thinks it must be something with the locking mechanism itself since it won't work with the key either. not sure if it's related, but when she use the FOB, remote, alarm keypad, or whatever other names the thing goes by, within 2 or 3 seconds of the regular beep another beep sounds. i'm a deployed servicemember so i can't tinker with the vehicle. would greatly appreciate some advice i could pass back home to the mrs to solve this problem. of course, dealer is the last resort.

be cool,
DClK
 

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Not sure if I can offer any help but,,,,, I just bought a used 04 Sequoia and the mechanic at the Toyota dealer told me to every few months or so to lubricate the latch on the rear liftgate . He said those get a little dried out from rain or water getting down into the latch area and draining the lubricate through some weepholes at the bottom of the hatch . When it rains the water runs down the window and gets the latch area wet . So try lubricating the latch with WD-40 or something else . Hopefully this might help .
 

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We're you able to fix the problem ? What is the solution?
having the same problem with my wife's '04 sequoia. haven't found any solution in the forums yet. me thinks it must be something with the locking mechanism itself since it won't work with the key either. not sure if it's related, but when she use the FOB, remote, alarm keypad, or whatever other names the thing goes by, within 2 or 3 seconds of the regular beep another beep sounds. i'm a deployed servicemember so i can't tinker with the vehicle. would greatly appreciate some advice i could pass back home to the mrs to solve this problem. of course, dealer is the last resort.

be cool,
DClK
 

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I'm having the same problem with my 06 Sequoia. Rear hatch won't latch at all. Second beep after first beep when using remote. Other posts I've seen say the lock actuator needs to be replaced. Anybody find a good video showing how to replace actuator?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I'm having the same problem with my 05. Although I don't get any extra beeps when locking the door with the FOB, the rest is the same.
 

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I have a 2001 Sequoia. The rear dock latch engages but I can't lock it with the fob or key. All the other doors lock. There is no beep. I removed the interior door panels and pulled out the liftgate lock assembly (p/n 693010C010). The cable was attached at both ends and the lock actuator makes a noise with the fob, but I suspect there is a stripped gear in the lock actuator and that is part of this entire assembly ($80-100). It's relatively easy to replace but I'm going to research this a little more before I invest in an electronic part I can't return.
 

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I HAD this problem on my 04, twice actually and I'm fed up with paying to fix it so this is what I did.... fleagle1 this probably wont help your problem, this is not an actuator problem but a handle to latch interface issue

1. Removed the back trim from inside the vehicle (because the hatch wont open). Literally just pull on it, the only screw is the one that secures the pull strap to the door after that its just a matter of popping the plastic rivet things.

2. With the window up, on the drivers side if you feel around inside the hatch near the bottom you should feel something that feels like a bicycle cable. Follow that up and center til you feel it mate with a metal piece, then just beyond that metal piece is another metal piece that the cable ball is fed thru. Either remove the cable from that holder or try and separate the two away from each other and the door should pop open. (I pulled the cable out of the holder and pulled the ball and POP!)

3. with the hatch open, find a good spot in the bottom of the hatch to drill a hole big enough for the ball and cable to fit thru. Drill the hole.

4. put a zip tie around the cable part to make it so only the ball can fit thru the whole, then with the ball thru the hole put a zip tie on that end basically keeping the cable from being pulled out or back into the hatch...

5. then either tie a string or something ( i used more zip ties) to give you something to grab onto... (dont worry you wont see it if its short enough because itll be under the hatch between the bumper)

6. close it, and reach under where the spot is, grab your new loop you made with sting or zip ties and pull... should pop right open.

I know this is a half ass fix but mine went twice in a year and i really got tired of messing with it.
 

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Did you ever figure this out? I just bought an 03, and I'm having the opposite issue. One day it just locked and won't unlock now. The fob and door controls both won't unlock the rear door.

Here's the kicker - I pulled up the rear door in Techstream with the OBD2 cable plugged in and I was able to get in and test the door lock, and it unlocked! After disconnecting, I tested locking and unlocking it with the fob and it got stuck locked again.

Thoughts?

I'm also unable to roll the rear window up or down with the key fob. I hold it and it makes a long beep and does nothing. The window rolls up and down fine from the dash switch however. Don't know if this is related to the lock issue or not...
 

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I replaced my handle and the cable from the handle to the latch was too tight, not allowing the locking mechanism to engage and disengage consistently.


Take off the rear trim and loosen the cable at the top by the handle or the bottom by the mechanism
 

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I have the same issue. My 06 won't lock and now the door ajar light goes on and off, usually when I hit a bump. When it's parked, my alarm goes off at different times and runs my battery down. I have changed the locking mechanism and the actuator (twice for the actuator) and it still doesn't work. Just had to buy a new battery. Not happy with the issue to the point that I may sell the vehicle. It may be a ground issue but I can't find the body ground for the rear hatch. I'm taking it to a body shop this weekend and hopefully he can find the issue. I love the Sequoia but not happy with Toyota. This is something almost everyone has a problem with and should have been a recall to fix.


Update*** Took it to the body shop and they said good luck. they wont even touch it! I'm now trying to find a mechanic that does electrical problems. Not real happy.
 

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So I know this is an old post but I know it popped up when I searched the issue. A little back story... I just went camping with the fam in our 06 SR5 Sequoia and noticed the hatch was super unreliable when opening. Opened the panel today to adjust and lubricate all the parts and tighten the cable a bit to allow the latch to open easier. Put it all back together, went to lock it and just got the long beep. Wouldn’t lock the tailgate using the fob or switch inside. Also noticed the same window issue spacecruisers was having with the window. The solution I found (that worked for me)... the cable was just barely too tight. By barely I mean it had to have no tension whatsoever for the sensor in the latch to allow it to work. Just make sure you have no slack in the cable either or the handle won’t pull enough travel in the cable to open the latch either. Hope this helps someone!
 

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I had “the second beep” issue where the lift gate will not lock after one of my handle replacements. This is caused by the cable being to tight( new handle may be slightly longer throw) and not allowing the black plastic post in the actuator to slide up and down due to cable tension on the other stain steel parts in actuator. As I’d already reassembled everything, it was easiest to remove the lock actuator and slightly bend the finger Toward the ball on the actuator that the gray grooved plastic part of cable fits into. Then make sure that the black plastic post can slide up/down. Problem resolved.
 
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