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Discussion Starter #1
well heres the deal so far after sitting at 2 different tire shops today that usually know what they are doing i have come to the conclusion that either these trucks are really weak or im missing something like i said previously heres what i have... 2004 tundra 4x4 dc with 122,000 miles. when i bought the truck it had steel the regular i believe alloy wheels.. well all at one time i put on a lift from fat bob's garage which was 2.5in spacer lift kit and 1in rear blocks, helo 791 rims that at 16x8 omm offset and 4.5 backspacing.... well on those i put 285/75/16 toyo a/t tires..... i have VIBRATION! these is a small amount of vibration in truck that is tolerable, but what isnt is whats in the steering wheel! If i let go of it and once im above 50 or so i can watch it shake back and forth pretty good prob an inch, and if im holding it my hand shakes pretty good... well the have were spun and road force( it was the 9700 model and i watched) balanced 4 times today just because the shop swore it was balance issue.. well still there... the wheels are angled in the lugs so my stocks of corse didnt work so tried the acorn nut which is what i had vibration with , and now tried what they called et lug nuts which are supposed to help with the hub centric.... still vibrating in wheel back and forth... now im taking a big trip with boat in a month and that going to be a terrible ride with tis issue... Like i said im told these rims are hubcentric... had it aligned at 2 diffrent places no luck... drives straight though lol... tried to get them to hit dj's spec which im not sure apply with the spacers and all, and the closest they could get was .07 toe... 0.68(left)caster0.13(right).......0.32(left)camber-0.35(right)... why can they not get closer and will this help? please someone help me ive wasted manny manny days on this! rather talk on phone if possible 386-216-2533 or [email protected] sooner the better leaving for trip soon... can these trucks handle the bigger tire or what? any response appreciated
 

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i have an 02 tundra V8 limited TRD with bilstein 5100 preload adjustable shocks set on the 5th tallest setting for lift and the rear is stock. i have 285 /75 /16 tires and my truck is smooth on the highway no vibration. WHY you ask??? BECAUSE I BOUGHT AFTERMARKET LUG CENTRIC WHEELS WITH 4 INCH BACKSPACING.... LUG CENTRIC, LUG CENTRIC, U NEED LUG CENTRIC WHEELS, U NEED LUG CENTRIC, LUG CENTRIC, LUG CENTRIC, LUG CENTRIC WHEELS WITH THE EXTENDED LENGTH ACORN STYLE LUG NUTS .... SIMPLE.
 

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DO THE WHEEL'S HUB OPENING SLIDE PERFECTLY SIZED OVER THE truck's HUBS JUST LIKE THE STOCK RIMS???? IF NOT THATS THE OVbIOUS REASON... SHOW US SOME PICS..... OF THEM MOUNTED WITHOUT THE CENTER CAPS.... MY LUG CENTRIC WHEELS CENTER OPENING IS SLIGHTLY BIGGER THAn THE TUNDRA HUB, BUT IT IS PERFECTLY CENTERED AND U CAN ALSO TELL because all the way around the hub and the wheel's hub opening looks equally spaced all the way around the hub. either dump thus hub centric wheels and get lug centric or get some type of hub centering rings....
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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DO THE WHEEL'S HUB OPENING SLIDE PERFECTLY SIZED OVER THE truck's HUBS JUST LIKE THE STOCK RIMS???? IF NOT THATS THE OVbIOUS REASON... SHOW US SOME PICS..... OF THEM MOUNTED WITHOUT THE CENTER CAPS.... MY LUG CENTRIC WHEELS CENTER OPENING IS SLIGHTLY BIGGER THAn THE TUNDRA HUB, BUT IT IS PERFECTLY CENTERED AND U CAN ALSO TELL because all the way around the hub and the wheel's hub opening looks equally spaced all the way around the hub. either dump thus hub centric wheels and get lug centric or get some type of hub centering rings....
There's NO WAY you can tell whether a wheel is centered on a hub via a visual inspection. Even .06" of runout will put it several ounces out of balance.

And the issue of hub-centric vs lug-centric isn't a recommendation argument. It is a function of the hub, the wheel, and the lug nuts. The only thing you need to know is whether it IS hub- or lug-centric so you can balance it properly.

A lug-centric setup isn't going to balance any better than a hub-centric solution, all else being equal.
 

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... i have VIBRATION!...tried to get them to hit dj's spec which im not sure apply with the spacers and all, and the closest they could get was .07 toe... 0.68(left)caster0.13(right).......0.32(left)camber-0.35(right)...
OK, you need to post up ALL the alignment numbers so we know what the machine says. Example: your caster numbers CAN'T be right. Caster should be set close to or at 2.00 [FONT=&quot]°[/FONT]. Not only is it WAY low, it isn't even in balance side-to-side! If these numbers are correct, it is clear where your front end instability is coming from. My caster is set at 2.20 [FONT=&quot]°[/FONT] and my truck is stable as a rock.

Further, your camber seems just a bit too positive; should be closer to 0.25 [FONT=&quot]°[/FONT].
 

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Those caster numbers are "whacked". Get thee to a good alignment shop.
 

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Punctuation is also a good start....

These trucks can handle larger tires just fine. I simply sounds like you have a wheel/tire fitment issue. I think these trucks tend to like hub centric wheels. Of course you can use lug centric ones, but they may not always fit as well.

I ran cheap wheel adapters for a short while that were only lug centric and not hub centric. No matter how many times I played with them I got a horrible vibration in my steering wheel. When I took them off everything was back to normal. The guy who bought them from me has had no issues from them. Confusing, I know :confused:

So it sounds like it is simply your wheel mounting to your truck. The wheels may be balanced perfectly, but it simply isn't aligning correctly on your truck. Get some new wheels. Or just go back to stock wheels for a short while until you can get some new ones.

Check out wheelers polished chrome wheels. I have the steelies and they have been great. Black and Polished Alloy Toyota Truck Wheels from Wheeler's Off-Road

Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well ill se what i can do about the pics here in a second, i've never done that on here but yea moose i just start typeing and don't stop lol sorry for the spelling and punct... Well those are my alignment numbers, i have no idea why they are so low.. Tire kingdom said everythings maxed out.. Whatever that means... But if im correct dj's specs are +2.00 caster, 0.25camber, +0.08 total toe...on that caster is that +2 each side? Is my little spacer lift preventing them of this???....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
SO WHAT YOUR SAYING IS IF THAT DOESN'T FIT OVER THE HUB REALLY REALLY SNUG THEN THERES NO WAY IM EVER GOING TO GET IT PERFECT?? AND ALL OF YOU ARE RECOMMENDING TO ONLY USE LUG CENTRIC RIMS ON THIS TRUCK? sorry for caps just noticed
 

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Discussion Starter #11
oh for got to coment on one question... like i said they told me the rims are hubcentric.. im not sure how to tell, but that is also the reason we have had such a hard time with the lug nuts... factories didnt work, then went to acorn and had vib, and now using what they call et's and there putting on slowly to center the wheel using these lug nuts...
 

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try this... when tightening the wheel put all six lug nuts half way into threads... as you tighten each lug nut slowly keep on turning the wheel and tighten lug nuts slowly by hand as you spin the wheel so that it gets centered much better when tightening the wheel, if u think about it when u rest wheel onto hub gravity wants to rest it down..... but if u spin it and tighten lug nuts slowly at the same time it will be better.... do the whhels look good to make it worth the trouble u having... i sugggest u go to an off road shop....
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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...like i said they told me the rims are hubcentric.. im not sure how to tell, but that is also the reason we have had such a hard time with the lug nuts... factories didnt work, then went to acorn and had vib, and now using what they call et's and there putting on slowly to center the wheel using these lug nuts...
If your setup IS hub-centric, then you must make sure that the proper lugnuts are being used, i.e. the type with the flat face & captured washer, is not tight inside the lug hole, and that rides on top of a boss machined into the outside of the wheel's hub. If you are using tapered lugnuts (for lug-centric wheels) then you are going to have torsion problems, and if you continue to crank down on these on a hub-centric wheel, you will gouge out the inside surface of the lug holes.
 

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SO WHAT YOUR SAYING IS IF THAT DOESN'T FIT OVER THE HUB REALLY REALLY SNUG THEN THERES NO WAY IM EVER GOING TO GET IT PERFECT?? AND ALL OF YOU ARE RECOMMENDING TO ONLY USE LUG CENTRIC RIMS ON THIS TRUCK? sorry for caps just noticed
No, that's not what all of us are saying! Read my previous post(s) carefully.

Again, you need to determine what type of setup you have. You do that by looking at the wheel, hub, and lugnuts together. If the inside cutout on the wheel is a tight fit to the vehicle's hub, generally you can determine that this is a "hub-centric" setup. Then, you have to make sure you are using the proper lug nuts.

Neither is "better" than the other. You simply have to know what it is you're working with so you can determine the proper method of balancing and mounting.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well just came backfrom another tirekingdom to try and utilize the last fewdays of my free alignment package. Well this tire kingdom had a little more of a clue what to do. The new numbers are 1.8 on both sides for caster and said that wad all I had in there. Toe is 0.00 total, and camber is set at 0.2 for both sides. Now it pulls to the right a decent amount, but vibration is still there. I think if they are hubcentric then they make hub rings that should eliminate play. I'm goig to take lugs off tonight and see what play I have. I hate all this
 

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I have a dumb question as maybe you mentioned somewhere else that you tried it. Have you put your stock wheels and tires back on the truck to see if it still vibrates with them to make sure it is in fact the tires? My guess would be tires hands down, but at least you would know for sure.

As far as lug-centric vs. hub-centric, I have 20x9 KMC wheels that have the same exact size hub opening as my stock wheels and the lug holes are angled at the bottom so you have to use acorn style lug nuts. This sounds just like what you have described previously. If you have to use the acorn style lug nuts, I would get them balanced as lug-centric wheels. I don't know how they balanced mine, they came mounted and balanced and I don't have any issues with vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yea im clueless so your saying use the hakewa adapter even tho for hubcentric its supposed to be the attached to the balancer using the hub tightener? anyone life in orlando area that has some tires and wheel i can put on to just try? sold my originals...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok remmy can u fly out here please? lol so if i have the acorn or ets on there its going to screw it up and could be my issue? but if you look in these rims where the lug tightens down it is angled
 

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So your tire shop doesn't have a clue what they're doing? I would expect them to be able to look at your setup and get them balanced and mounted on the vehicle correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
yea johnny i think they're having an issue being able to tell if hub centric or lug centric... i still don't totally understand it. Im a very visual person... well after just now at midnight looking online at 4wheelparts online at my rims and summit..... im determined they are lug centric because on those sites it says hubcentric:no... like i said theyre the helo 791's....so if lug centric i should not need spacer rings or hub centric adapters or anything.. adapters right? so someone confirm with me on this before i go have it done, i need to have them balanced using the hakewa adapter, or the flange plate balancing? and the lug nuts... can they be the accorn nuts with the angle ends? i feel like im getting somewhere.
 
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