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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that I have the warranty worries cleared up, I will be changing my own oil. Probably will purchase a handful of Toyota filters at 1 time and see if the dealership will give me a discount to do so (I know they can if they want to).

Other than that, I assume I don't have to change out the washer on the drain plug every time to stay w/in warranty specs? Also, I would assume with the top mounted/facing down oil filter, I can drain from the pan and then easily remove filter last without any oil splattering all over the place?

I would assume my engine would probably love some nice syn oil to run on. 5W30 for sure. Any input? So here is what I'll prolly go with:

1. Mobil 1
2. Castrol Syntec
3. Castrol GTX
4. Quaker State
5. Valvoline <-------- Not! that stuff is garbage~
 

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Amsoil 5w30 is my top choice. I've been running it for 15K with no problems. I also use their filter.

AMSOIL - 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (ASL)

Before this thread gets out of hand, I'll be the first to tell you, it's mostly preference. All synthetics do a good job. You will also have some saying regular oil is just as good, just change it at 3K etc.

I like doing my oil changes every 10K+ miles. Life is easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Honestly, I'll prolly go syn and change every 5K. I know amsoil is good stuff (pros use it), but the additives have been rumored to cause catylitic problems down the road. And its expensive and harder to find. I can find Mobil 1 anywhere and sometimes on sale.

I'll prolly go syn due to living in hot FL, driving in extreme traffic, and to give better anti-sludge protection.
 

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You can order it right off their website. I wont argue it's expensive at all. But I figure if it costs me $115 (case of oil and filter) for 20K miles, that's relatively cheap if I were to use regular oil and change every 3K.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So is what I said about the downward facing filter true?

And does the washer from the drain plug need to be replaced every time to meet warranty specs?
 

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So is what I said about the downward facing filter true?

And does the washer from the drain plug need to be replaced every time to meet warranty specs?

Yes. I just changed mine last weekend, didn't spill a drop. I didn't change the washer either and its not leaking whatsoever. But I picked up a bag of 10 so I'll be all set in the future.
 

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I buy the cheapest oil Walmart has and change oil and filter every 3000 miles. I did this with my last 91 Toy 4x4 AC pick-up and sold it, running like a top, with 198,431 miles.

Unless you are racing Im not sure the synthetics are worth it.

My two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes. I just changed mine last weekend, didn't spill a drop. I didn't change the washer either and its not leaking whatsoever. But I picked up a bag of 10 so I'll be all set in the future.
Thanks, I appreciate it! How much did the dealership charge for 10 of those?
 

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I assume you are talking about a brand new tundra .

I think i have read a few times that you are not suppose to use synthetic until after the first 10,000 miles. You might want to look into it. I personaly have not spent the time to research if it is a myth or not. However to play it safe i am runing Castrol GTX for now. After 10,000 synthitic all the way.

FXNGLAS you seem pretty knowledgeable what have you heard? And do you really do your oil change every 10,000? :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
6.90.....69 cents each

part number 90430-12031

Worth getting them......I found out after the fact lol



Or you could order them here

Replace Pts>Filter Parts and Accessories for 2006 Toyota Tundra
Thanks for the price and link bro!

And to answer the next responder.... I doubt there would be any drawback to using full syn from first turn through death of engine at any point. Conventional wisdom would tell me so, so much that some high performance engines never see anything but synthetic. Just doesn't make sense. But please, enlighten me on the topic. Maybe there is something more to it in this case.
 

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Yes. I just changed mine last weekend, didn't spill a drop. I didn't change the washer either and its not leaking whatsoever. But I picked up a bag of 10 so I'll be all set in the future.
Is there some special process you are using cause whenever I change my oil, I still get a significant amount that comes out even after draining the oil from the bottom at the oil plug.
 

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Is there some special process you are using cause whenever I change my oil, I still get a significant amount that comes out even after draining the oil from the bottom at the oil plug.
Yeah, put a bucket under it. Maybe I miss read the first post, he wanted to know if oil splatters all over the place, which it doesn't....we'll at least mine didn't.
 

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For the past several years now I've been using a Fumoto drain valve on the oil pan and it sure makes it easier.No crush washers to buy or bolt to drop in the bucket of hot oil! Get on their web site to learn more..... Fumoto drain valve.
 

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Thanks for the price and link bro!

And to answer the next responder.... I doubt there would be any drawback to using full syn from first turn through death of engine at any point. Conventional wisdom would tell me so, so much that some high performance engines never see anything but synthetic. Just doesn't make sense. But please, enlighten me on the topic. Maybe there is something more to it in this case.
Go take a look at this link. it talks about synthetics and not using them for breaking. synthetic oil vs. dino oil [Archive] - Yellowworld Forums

it talks about the need for friction to break-in your rings.
 

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FXNGLAS you seem pretty knowledgeable what have you heard? And do you really do your oil change every 10,000? :eek:
As far as changing my oil every 10K, no. It was exactly 11,476 miles that I went before I did my next oil change.

1st Oil Change at 5,470 miles - 6/27/2006
2nd at 16,976 miles - 1/2/2007

I'm now around 20,6xx on the truck. The oil was still pretty clean too. Amsoil claims 25K or 1 year if you use their oil and oil filter. I don't think I'd push my luck on that much mileage, but I feel comfortable going at least 15K with no worries.

As far as the Synthetic oil and seals, all that "breaking in" is done relatively fast before you would even get to do your first oil change. I wouldn't worry at all. A lot of newer high end sports/luxury cars are now using synthetic in the engine right off the factory line, such as the Corvette.
 

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As far as changing my oil every 10K, no. It was exactly 11,476 miles that I went before I did my next oil change.

1st Oil Change at 5,470 miles - 6/27/2006
2nd at 16,976 miles - 1/2/2007

I'm now around 20,6xx on the truck. The oil was still pretty clean too. Amsoil claims 25K or 1 year if you use their oil and oil filter. I don't think I'd push my luck on that much mileage, but I feel comfortable going at least 15K with no worries.

As far as the Synthetic oil and seals, all that "breaking in" is done relatively fast before you would even get to do your first oil change. I wouldn't worry at all. A lot of newer high end sports/luxury cars are now using synthetic in the engine right off the factory line, such as the Corvette.
I never knew synthetics could go so long between changes. I agree with your comment on break in being fast.

Concerning the Corvette---the post i attached earlyer states corvette is stopping that because the rings were not seating and they were getting oil blow by.
 

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Now that I have the warranty worries cleared up, I will be changing my own oil. Probably will purchase a handful of Toyota filters at 1 time and see if the dealership will give me a discount to do so (I know they can if they want to).

Other than that, I assume I don't have to change out the washer on the drain plug every time to stay w/in warranty specs? Also, I would assume with the top mounted/facing down oil filter, I can drain from the pan and then easily remove filter last without any oil splattering all over the place?

I would assume my engine would probably love some nice syn oil to run on. 5W30 for sure. Any input? So here is what I'll prolly go with:

1. Mobil 1
2. Castrol Syntec
3. Castrol GTX
4. Quaker State
5. Valvoline <-------- Not! that stuff is garbage~
Don't know where you got the idea that Valvoline is "garbage". It is as good as any other API rated oil is.

The Tundra is one of the easiest vehicles to change oil on that I've owned. Once the oil filter is loosened, the oil will drain nicely from the edge of the filter and not run down the side making a mess.

Pan drains easily too and is easy to get to. Piece-o-cake.

JMHO

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Concerning the Corvette---the post i attached earlyer states corvette is stopping that because the rings were not seating and they were getting oil blow by.
Blow by while using syn is actually more common than people would like to think.
 
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