[sbsyncro]

Or am I just stupid? (certainly a possibility!) :clown:

I'm in the middle of my install in the driveway and think I've encountered a problem (or the limits of my experience with this truck)

As you can see from the photo, there is a small protrusion coming off the frame rail that fits down into the rubber bushing on the diff mount. The spacer needs a recess to fit over this protrusion, otherwise it "rides" on top of this protrusion and causes a really weird gap between the frame rail and the spacer. Furthermore, the spacer doesn't fit down into the recess in the rubber bushing...

Am I missing something here? (very likely...)

 

[sbsyncro]

Well, based on a couple of PMs I got on this issue, it is apparently the way its designed to work...

I'm used to custom-fabricated parts being much better thought-out, but I guess I must be spoiled for some reason. Frankly, I'm really quite disappointed with the quality of this kit and surprised no one has pointed it out before, given all the people that cite it as a "must have".. Here are my main complaints:

1. The issue noted above where the spacer is obviously not machined to fit the location it is intended for - it has to ride on top of that protrusion, which makes it look very oddly perched in place (and simply not "elegant")

2. The hardware - gimme a break! The stock parts use a 19mm head cap screw and a 19mm shouldered lock nut. The TC kit uses a 21mm head cap screw and a 24mm lock nut (IIRC). Not only are they not the same size as the stock (forcing you to use additional tools) but they aren't even the same size end-to-end! Pul-leeease! This really wouldn't be that hard to fix...

3. Whoops! No mention of it in the instructions, but lo and behold, the skid plate doesn't fit after installing the diff drop! The position of the diff mounts interferes with the rear trailing edge of the skid plate and the stock bolts won't reach into the holes. For another $5 TC should have thrown in two more spacers and longer replacement bolts for us 4x4 owners. Grrr! Luckily I had some longer bolts in the shed and was able to secure the skid plate with those, but in order to do so had to warp the skid plate in towards the frame rail to make sure the bolts wouldn't work loose. Now the skid plate is riding on the diff mounts and there is an "air gap" of about an inch where the rear mounting screws are secured.

All in all, I honestly think that after a single installation one would realize these missing elements and re-design the kit. Perhaps the 2005 DC is totally different than all the other 00-06 4WD tundras, and no one else has this problem?

I do plan to share my findings with them directly, since I am a firm believer in the idea that companies can only improve their products if their customers care enough to help them improve.

 

[Salty_Dog]

3. Whoops! No mention of it in the instructions, but lo and behold, the skid plate doesn't fit after installing the diff drop! The position of the diff mounts interferes with the rear trailing edge of the skid plate and the stock bolts won't reach into the holes. For another $5 TC should have thrown in two more spacers and longer replacement bolts for us 4x4 owners. Grrr! Luckily I had some longer bolts in the shed and was able to secure the skid plate with those, but in order to do so had to warp the skid plate in towards the frame rail to make sure the bolts wouldn't work loose. Now the skid plate is riding on the diff mounts and there is an "air gap" of about an inch where the rear mounting screws are secured.

I ran into the same problems with my TC diff drop, though I had everything installed by a shop.

The skid plate thing was a real bite. At first they thought they'd have to fire up the Smoke Wrench and cut sections out of the skid plate, but the guy had some longer bolts. As for warping the skid plate, my guy just used a couple of old rubber shock bushings as spacers so he didn't have to warp the plate while bolting it on. Plus the rubber spacers provided some dampening so it would not rattle.

I agree. TC could make some improvements on their kit. If I was doing it all over again, I might shop around for a DD kit, and not try to do it on the Cheap.

 

[DevinSixtySeven]

I don't remember if my truck has the same issue with the ring/gap, but I would guess it's the same. Haven't had a problem, in any case.

If the shank of the new bolt is the same or larger than the original, there's no problem...Toyota seems to have a lot of their own bolts, the front diff bolts are probably no exception and the T/C package uses more easily sourced hardware. Plenty of large fasteners take a larger socket for the nut than the bolt...the fasteners on my rear bumper are 13/16 at the bolt and 7/8 at the nut.

This did remind me why I have 21mm and 24mm sockets and wrenches ...

I'm using a Skid Row plate, but what I did probably works on the stock plate. I just used a longer bolt (tho I've drilled and cut the threads for larger Grade 8 SAE hardware, the OEM threads were trashed from too many rounds with the zip gun during oil changes) and some nylon spacers from the hardware store (try Ace). I've been all over the Skid Row plate like a fat kid on a cupcake and the spacers have compressed/deformed a bit but never split.

-Sean

 

[PeteSB]

3. Whoops! No mention of it in the instructions, but lo and behold, the skid plate doesn't fit after installing the diff drop! The position of the diff mounts interferes with the rear trailing edge of the skid plate and the stock bolts won't reach into the holes. For another $5 TC should have thrown in two more spacers and longer replacement bolts for us 4x4 owners. Grrr! diff mounts and there is an "air gap" of about an inch where the rear mounting screws are secured. Luckily I had some longer bolts in the shed and was able to secure the skid plate with those, but in order to do so had to warp the skid plate in towards the frame rail to make sure the bolts wouldn't work loose. Now the skid plate is riding on the

Hey sbsyncro (and others with this problem).
I just did the diff. drop and, you're right, it does seem like TC and other companies could make the spacers fit better. Bolts and spacers for the skid plate would be useful too, is this too much to ask? Anyway, I was left hunting around in the garage for a makeshift spacer for the skid plate too. I looked in a tool box I haven't opened in years and in it I found the answer to my problems...a set of old skateboard wheels. I sawz-alled one of them in half and had two custom urethane skid plate spacers within minutes. I did have to go buy longer bolts but that only cost $1.50 and now I know it's done "right". I've used skateboard wheels for creative purposes before but never automotive stuff. There's all kinds of sizes, they're readily available in most every town, and you can cut them to the right width if necessary.

 

[Tundradrenalin]

were those 80's style River Phoenix Off the Wall serious downhill wheels or new school street wheels?

 

[TundrastruckDave]

This is quite an informative thread, as I too have a diff drop spacer kit, which I've yet to install. This is the very first I've heard of this, but I'm curious to see if my DC is the same, which I'm sure it probably is. When I do install the kit, I'll let you know if... I too... run into the same issues.

 

[PeteSB]

were those 80's style River Phoenix Off the Wall serious downhill wheels or new school street wheels?

That's funny. No, they were more the Gleaming the Cube ramp style wheels. I had to cut 'em because they were too big. If I had bought new ones just for this job I would've gone new school street style so I didn't have to breathe urethane smoke while I was sawz-alling the damn things in half.

 

[Tundradrenalin]

HA Pete! nice Christian Slater reference. I've got some of each laying around, I'll go the thin route if need be.

Dave, can you PM me details of all the extra junk you bought or acquired that was necessary for the install? I'm planning on this within the next couple weeks and for once I'd like to complete a mod outside of the Lowe's parking lot.

 

[Mazutoytundra]

I was wondering if someone can measure the protrusion. I'm making my own diff drop and I need to know the dimensions of the protrusion so I can make a recess in the spacer. Thanks


Plus if everything works out, then I plan on making a few sets for anyone wanting a recess in their diff drop.