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We all know just how bad the frame rust can be. But I can't go on waiting for the company to fix it, Id like to start this thead on how we can slow the Tundra frame rust. What has worked for you and what has not. I have a 2001 in a northern state and my frame rust is not as bad as others I have seen. Last year I did a frame rust treatment with Fluid Film and it helped. It does not last very long and is gone now after this winter. Now I have the frame paint peeling off, mainly at the welds and rust is developing there. Im thinking of my next step. Anyone got an idea??
 

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Great idea. People have posted some of their tricks and ideas in the other rusty threads, but, this would be good to have them in 1 location.

I do not have the issue thank God, but, I am not driving in snow/salt. I did not plan it that way (I was assigned to work over the border many years ago). Now that my ride is 10 years old, it has not/will not see salt in New England. I want to keep this baby awhile and not going to encourage the rust problem. I did recondition my frame and undercarriage last year,
but, I was working with good metal to start with. (sand, prime, paint).

Repairs or rust prevention will depend on what folks have to start with, as what condition
is it in. Good Luck. Would like to hear how it goes for you and others to save these
1G Tundras!
 

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Well to do anything you have to have clean metal first as otherwise will only cover rust. Sandblasting?? $$$??:confused: Mine is bad, but not as bad as others. Mainly at welds and everything in the rear. I was going to pull out wire brush in the spring after all the salt goes off the road and clean it all up really well. Rear axle has lost all the paint on it only rust, cross member is so so, no holes, leaf spring mounting points are rusted :mad: Will do my best, but without removing rust all the way to good steel it wouldn't do much good. Some sort of industrial rust inhibitor that we could by by 50gal barrel and share within TS members :) would be much cheaper than buying by small cans locally.
 

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Last year I did a frame rust treatment with Fluid Film and it helped. It does not last very long and is gone now after this winter. Now I have the frame paint peeling off, mainly at the welds and rust is developing there. Im thinking of my next step. Anyone got an idea??
This was the first winter I used Fluid Film. I applied it to my 1996 Tacoma as this is my winter vehicle. I can tell you I am very impressed from what I see so far. It's March and the coating is still there! I do not wash my vehicles in the winter, so maybe that's why green man's coating didn't last. I sprayed about 14 cans on the frame/underside and half way up the body. The spring cleaning will reveal just how well it worked. I plan to share some pictures of what I find.

Good Luck

<TUNDRA>
 

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Yes I agree with vincas2005 sandblasting. this spring I will be doing that. My 2000 has a few spots that need attn. I have one of those portable sandblasters. If you have enough compressed air they work pretty good. mine works better with a finer grit it seems like it moves more materal. Anyway sandblast prime & paint. Thats the best cure I can can come up with.
 

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when i had my bed off i wire wheeled a bunch of crap off and krylon'd it. Dunno how it worked out sold the truck soon after
 

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You cant sandblast, beadblast or sodablast unless you REMOVE everything connected to the frame tbh. Cause oyu wont get into the crevices..

Here is what I have done in the past on some rusty under carriages:
1. Get a pressure washer and clean the crap out of the underside, either use a spray degreaser (simple green works) and spray it all around after you hose off the loose stuff, or use it thru the washer.
2. Wait for it to dry, this can be sped up with a heatgun or just wait on a hot sunny day.
3. Go get some rustoleum or the likes rust converting spraypaint
4. Spray light to medium coats of this stuff EVERYWHERE you can, rust or not.
5. Wait to dry for about 3-6 hours
6. Another coat of the rust converting paint
7. Wait to dry 3-6 hours
8. Get some stain or flat black rustoleum or similar and go to town in the same manner you did with the other paint.
9. Feeling fun after it dries spray a flat clear on it if you want.

I did this to several vehicles, usually stops rust dead. You can do por15 too or use epoxy paint (much harder paint and will last longer), but overall this will require touch up overtime.

2 years ago all I did was use that rust converting paint and satin black over it. I was lazy and didnt even clean alot of the dirt off. Overall rust hasnt come back to much and this winter was brutal, I actually had to follow a truck spraying liquid salt one day on my way to work.
 

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YES! por-15 and por-15 and por-15. Put it on my 67' Chevy and the frame looks great and it put a quick stop to the rust. It's nearly eight years later and everything is great. I plan on making the big step after this winter to put it on my Tundra because the rust is getting pretty bad around the rear axle. Good Luck!!!
 

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It is possible to sand blast most of the frame by only removing the box, did it with my Tacoma in 2007(only to have it bought back in 2008...

This summer I will be doing that very thing to the tundra, then painting the frame. And finally having it rust checked every year.

For those with badly rusted frames all is still not lost, I just rebuilt a severly rusted jeep yj boxed frame this past summer... It's an insane amount of work but if you love your truck :tu:
 

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How much portable sand blaster would cost to rent or borrow? I might do it towards summer as i want to keep this lovely junk for a long time, so i don't want it falling apart any time soon.
 

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I have the underside of my DC washed as frequently as I can during the winter months. Whenever I get the chance I get under there with a hand sprayer and coat the you-know-what out of everything I can get to with WD-40. The rust under my truck is widespread but so far is only minor surface rust. I am not sure how much the WD-40 helps but the rust does not seem to be getting any worse.

One thing that concerns me with the whole idea of painting is that absent a complete disassembly of the frame from everything else along with a very thorough sandblasting there is no way to get all the rust taken care of. Coating rust with paint only covers it up so that it can fester unnoticed.

I hear (or read) good things about POR 15 but have never used it. I think the the best way to deal with rust is to be proactive about it. Frequent under body washes coupled with WD-40 are a good line of first defense. For those who have rust beyond minor surface rust the stakes are a lot higher. I wonder what a stainless steel frame would cost? Perhaps some aftermarket firm will pick up on this?
 

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Already started "Operation Save my Tundra"

Heres the left side of the frame. Don't have a before picture.
I have a rust killer on the metal itself, it started to bubble and fizz on the areas that had rust. Guess it was working. Not sure how to get to the inside of the frame where its more savior.



 

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How much portable sand blaster would cost to rent or borrow? I might do it towards summer as i want to keep this lovely junk for a long time, so i don't want it falling apart any time soon.
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vincas2005 this is the portable blaster I have I got it at WW GRANGER item# 6ZA34 It cost $67.35 it works pretty good but like i said they go through alot of air just about like cutting off the end of the air hose wide open. so you need a pretty good compressor. lots of cfm. If I lived closer Id be glad to help for a cold beer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think Ill try the process that TJM100 wrote. Wire brushing as best I can. The Fuild film app. worked on the areas with no rust buy preventing more, but Im now dealing with the old frame paint peeling off and new rust starting. I think once I paint everything with primer and top coat I will re-apply Fluid Film.
 

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POR 15 is good its just $$$ and is mostly a brush on thing unless you have a spray gun.

Paint For Rust - Stop Rust - Por15store is now KBS Coatings - Gas Tank Sealers

The KBS system is less expensive and claims to outperform POR 15.

The KBS process mimics POR 15 with similiar results. I used POR 15 4+ years back and it continues to perform well for me. I have just under 1 year on the KBS system, but it seems to be holding up just as well as the POR 15.

<TUNDRA>
 

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Just got done with this years fix. I power washed the entire underside let dry, then took an air hose to the frame and that blew all the loose paint off. I then wire brushed all the rust I could get to and hit it again with the air. Then gave it a good coat of Rustoleum primer, let dry and then a top coat of Rustoleum statin black. I did not paint the springs or areas with nuts and bolts or rubber areas. I did cover everything with fluid film after the paint cured. I seems to me that the paint Toyota used for the frame peels off and then rust quickly develops, areas that still had the original paint were good as new. I hope this works it's only got 66,000mi and looks and runs like new..
 

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Check your steering racks for corrosion. My '01 that I still have has moderate surface rust on the frame but the steering rack had to be replaced last year due to a leak from corroding through. Pay particular attention to the area where the rubber boots are clamped on, as salt and moisture is trapped there.

I'm going to get under my '10 and hit all the spots that look vulnerable to trapping debris with undercoat or bedliner spray to seal the surface.
 
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