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Hi,
While driving the other day, my check engine light came on. After checking Tundrasolutions, I drove to my local Autozone, and bought a code reader for $65. (I live in Calif, so they would not check it for free) After I attached the code reader, I got a p0031 code. Again, looking it up on Tundrasolutions, I knew it was the bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor. I took another drive to the dealer, where I had to shell out $167.00 for a new one. Now came the fun part. Replacing the old one!! The first step was to locate it. If followed the driver side exhaust, until i found the catalytic convertor. I looked in front of it, and there it was. Unhooking the plastic connector, was a challenge.

Using a super small screw driver, I lifted the tab on the bottom with one hand, and pried the connector apart with the other. Took a little while, but I was able to get it.
The next step was to get the sensor off.

I put some oil on the top part of the sensor, and then let it drip down. I then used the slotted socket, I bought for $15.00.

I slipped the wire through the slot, and with a little elbow grease, was able to take the sensor out.

I then screwed in the new one, and tightened it with the socket. Last step was to use the code reader to erase the code from the Tundra. After that, I fired up the car, and took it for a test drive. No more check engine light. Took about 1 hour to do, and was not tough at all. By the time I got done, it cost me $237 but that included the code reader, and socket. If you can get a free code check, that knocks $65.00 off it. I am still not sure how much the dealer would have charged me, but I have a feeling it would be more that $237:rolleyes:
 

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hey thanks for the tutorial and pics! I replace my driver side last year and had a horrible experience, basically stripped the threads on the way out and had to get it re-threaded, 200 buck mistake. Now my passenger side needs to be replaced. Couple questions, how many miles do u have? Did you take it off while the manifold was hot? How much force did you apply to snap it loose?
 

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I just did my passenger side on Friday it was a lot easier to do easy to get to. I sprayed my with WD-40 or you could use PB Blaster and stray it a few times and let it soak in and I was told to turn you car on and let it run for around 30 seconds just to get it hot I did that and helped some. I tried to do my driver side and that’s a different story started to strip the head of the sensor so now I have to take it somewhere to get fix. :mad:

Just spray it with the WD-40 or PB Blaster a few times and run the truck for 30 seconds or so and you should be good.
 

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I just did my passenger side on Friday it was a lot easier to do easy to get to. I sprayed my with WD-40 or you could use PB Blaster and stray it a few times and let it soak in and I was told to turn you car on and let it run for around 30 seconds just to get it hot I did that and helped some. I tried to do my driver side and that’s a different story started to strip the head of the sensor so now I have to take it somewhere to get fix. :mad:

Just spray it with the WD-40 or PB Blaster a few times and run the truck for 30 seconds or so and you should be good.
hmmm...thats interesting. Seems like everyone has an easier time removing the passenger side and stripping the driver side. I already took mine to get the passenger side replaced 2 times and both times they couldn't snap it free. I had been spraying pb blaster all week too. I just wonder if they weren't putting a lot of muscle behind it in case they stripped it. They were also torching it and still weren't able to snap it free...it will be cheaper for me to get it out and if it strips, get it re-threaded for 200 again. Still cheaper than the dealer!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi,
I have 41 K miles on my 2003 SR5 Tundra. I thought the mileage was pretty low for the sensor to go bad. I did not heat it up before trying to get it loose. It did not seem too tough to get off, I quess I got lucky. Stripping the threads sounds like a nightmare. The slotted socket really did the trick, and was worth the 15 bucks.

pb4sc
 

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Yeah it can be I had to take mine to a shop to get fixed and the mech called me and said my manifold was going to have to come off in order to try and get it not good.
 

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Depends on which sensor is bad. Front sensors are far more critical to engine operation, as the ECM uses them to set air fuel ratio at much of the engine's operating range. An incorrect air fuel ratio can and would damage the engine in short order. The rear sensors apparently do not affect air fuel ratio, and exist only to monitor catalyst efficiency.
 

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My wife has driven the 2k tundra since we purchased it new,It does not see alot of heavy foot long haul driving, and for the last 4 years goes only 5 miles each way to her job useing the 89 octane gas to save on money.I run a LUCAS injector cleaner in it once every 4 or 5 fillups. However I have always run Amsoil 5/30 in it from the jump start to help the motor out in all weather conditions at start up.Could the lack of warm ups to normal engine temps and cheap gas cause these O2 to fail so soon? .......So...., without haveing a code reader for my 2K tundra with 70k on the odometer,i will assume the the engine dash warning light will apply only to the front 2 sensors?.... or can the rears be picked up also?....I think that if only the fronts are read i will change out both front sensors at the same time and start clean as when new.I just started running a strong injector cleaner called GREASED LIGHTNING fuel treatment through a full tank of gas and was thinking of a long drive to consume the cleaner before starting over with new O2s.....Should i wait for the cleaner and a full tank of gas to pass through before i install the new O2s,...Or will i cause more problems by driving with a bad O2 waiting for the treatment cleanup.??? Thanks Steve
 

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Toyota sent out a notice to replace Number 1 O2 sensors in the exhaust manifolds (trouble code P0135 and P0155) at their cost as an extension to the Tundra's Emissions Warranty - "2000 to MID-2002 Model Year Tundra V8 (2UZ-FE Enigine) Oxygen Sensor Warranty Enhancement Notice". Unfortunately, the warranty was for 7-years or 90K miles. Considering your milage, I would push for the warranty. If YOU must replace them , buy the O2 sensors at RockAuto Parts Catalog - the least expensive that I have found - $60.89 each for Denso Part # 2344169 OEM. Good luck!
 

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...I would also like to add that I am now in the process of replacing mine. Before I do, I am considering the JBA headers. I have been driving my 4WD Limited around for over a month with the idiot light on and have had no problems. I suspect that a slightly lower MPG would be the result, but I have been infromed that it is the pre-heater element on the sensor that is prone to fail. So, in that case, your O2 sensor is doing its job - may be not as fast since the heating element is not warming it up quicker, but I suspect the difference is negligible. Toyota's warranty replacement of mine lasted 3 years and about 30K miles.
 

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I've got the P0135 on my 2000 tundra 4x4. Would the Bank 1 Sensor 1 be the drivers side or passenger side?

Thanks
Bank 1 = driver's side
Bank 2 = passenger side
Sensor 1 = front (aka the "fuel-air", or "upstream" sensor; located in the exhaust manifold)
Sensor 2 = rear (aka the "oxygen", "emissions catalyst function" or "downstream" sensor; located behind the catalytic converter(s)
 

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Check Engine Light came on last night. At the Dealer Code P0135 Bank 1 Sensor 1.. Total Replacement Cost $286.96 (I had a $30 Coupon)... (2000 Toyota Tundra 97000 Miles).. At almost 23000 miles the Dealer replaced the Bank 2 Sensor 1 (Code P0130) under warranty..
 

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Check Engine Light came on last night. At the Dealer Code P0135 Bank 1 Sensor 1.. Total Replacement Cost $286.96 (I had a $30 Coupon)... (2000 Toyota Tundra 97000 Miles).. At almost 23000 miles the Dealer replaced the Bank 2 Sensor 1 (Code P0130) under warranty..
You can pick up a new Denso plug-and-play sensor from Rockauto for about $62 and you can do the remove/replace yourself. $287 to do the job is absolute robbery.
 

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You actually have to so it doesn't seize or rust in. Just use sparingly so nothing get onto the sensor part that goes inside the exhaust pipe. Just a little around the thread. Use of PB Blaster for several days and running cold engine for a minute or so is highly recommended as it eases removal of old sensor.

I got P0155 today so I'm ordering one online ASAP. Autozone is 109+tax :eek:
 
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