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Oxygen Sensor Replacement Tutorial

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114K views 52 replies 32 participants last post by  shootemintheface  
#1 ·
Hi,
While driving the other day, my check engine light came on. After checking Tundrasolutions, I drove to my local Autozone, and bought a code reader for $65. (I live in Calif, so they would not check it for free) After I attached the code reader, I got a p0031 code. Again, looking it up on Tundrasolutions, I knew it was the bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor. I took another drive to the dealer, where I had to shell out $167.00 for a new one. Now came the fun part. Replacing the old one!! The first step was to locate it. If followed the driver side exhaust, until i found the catalytic convertor. I looked in front of it, and there it was. Unhooking the plastic connector, was a challenge.

Using a super small screw driver, I lifted the tab on the bottom with one hand, and pried the connector apart with the other. Took a little while, but I was able to get it.
The next step was to get the sensor off.
Image

I put some oil on the top part of the sensor, and then let it drip down. I then used the slotted socket, I bought for $15.00.
Image

I slipped the wire through the slot, and with a little elbow grease, was able to take the sensor out.
Image

I then screwed in the new one, and tightened it with the socket. Last step was to use the code reader to erase the code from the Tundra. After that, I fired up the car, and took it for a test drive. No more check engine light. Took about 1 hour to do, and was not tough at all. By the time I got done, it cost me $237 but that included the code reader, and socket. If you can get a free code check, that knocks $65.00 off it. I am still not sure how much the dealer would have charged me, but I have a feeling it would be more that $237:rolleyes:
 

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#27 ·
Advance Auto Parts stores also will read your code for free in PA. My 01 Sequoia shows a P0135 bank 1 sensor 1. AAP then sold me a Bosch O2 sensor for replacement for $115. Is Bosch OK? Did I get took?
 
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#30 ·
chuckalufagus said:
my mechanic put a bosch in 10000 miles ago and it appears to have held up although i just had another sensor go. not sure if its the same one or not so this will be the test as to whether its the bosch thats the problem or something else.
Click to expand...
Folks,

DO NOT USE BOSCH COMPONENTS ON ANY TOYOTA ECU-RELATED SYSTEM!


BOSCH COMPONENTS ARE DESIGNED FOR EUROPEAN AUTOMOBILES AND ARE NOT VOLTAGE-COMPATIBLE WITH TOYOTA'S ECU.
​

That includes oxygen sensors, spark plugs, MAF units, etc. Stick with Denso and/or NGK/NTK.
 
#31 ·
Remmy700P said:
Folks,

DO NOT USE BOSCH COMPONENTS ON ANY TOYOTA ECU-RELATED SYSTEM!


BOSCH COMPONENTS ARE DESIGNED FOR EUROPEAN AUTOMOBILES AND ARE NOT VOLTAGE-COMPATIBLE WITH TOYOTA'S ECU.
​

That includes oxygen sensors, spark plugs, MAF units, etc. Stick with Denso and/or NGK/NTK.
Click to expand...

X's 1,000,000

I replaced my O2's with Bosch and man did I have headaches. They threw codes after a couple hundred miles and only after talking to Remmy was I able to get it resolved with DENSO.

Remmy is the O2 go to guy on this forum.
 
S
#33 ·
Just finished changing both front sensors on 2002 4x4 Tundra. I found the best way to unclip the drivers side was to lay perpindicular to the frame of the truck, head towatds drivers side, feet toward passenger side, left hand reaches in in front of the cross member and grabs the wires. Use your right hand and reach in behind the cross member, through your line of sight and unclip by pulling up on the tab, pull apart with your left hand. This should only take 1 try and cost you 5 minutes.
 
R
#34 ·
I received an 0138 code so since I will be replacing bank 1, sensor 2 on my '01 I thought I might go ahead and replace both. Well, as others have found out, of the four nuts, after extensive soaking with WD-40, I was only able to remove one with a socket. The other three are so rusted that there isn't much left of them so I am planning on having to break them off. Once I get these done I may very well replace the front ones too. Thanks for the advice on avoiding Bosch sensors as that is the brand that the local Napa carries.
 
#35 ·
Warning... For those of you who's Tundras have a few more miles than the break-in period (mine's pushing 180,000), there may be another issue causing the same O2 sensor codes to pop up on the CEL. I had both codes from the rear sensors coming on. Occasionally, I could clear them and just one would return. I fixed them both, just like before except a bit more practiced at it this time, and still got the darn codes. I noticed that the engine was a bit more noisy over the last few weeks, and discovered a pin-hole leak on the exhaust headers. The headers eventually separated at the Y-Pipe flange and boy, was it loud then! Knowing the my break-in period was almost over (170,000 miles or so by then) I ordered a new set from JBA. When they were installed, no more CEL codes. So, for the older trucks, if your exhaust manifolds or headers are leaking in front of the O2 sensor, it will cause the O2 sensor to appear bad, and send a CEL code.

There is one more place to blow your money on these same codes, too. The mass air flow (MAF) sensor in the intake pipe between the air cleaner and the plenum is also a good mask of O2 sensors. It seems that the computer tries to match the intake air flow with the adjusted amount of exhaust gasses to determine performance. My MAF was dirty (and just cleanable) and I got the O2 sensor codes for that, too. Cleaning the MAF was a solution for that one. O'Reilly's sells the MAF sensor cleaner.

I hope this saves somebody else some money.
 
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#36 ·
I replaced the Bank 1 Sensor 1 on my '01 Sequoia w/4wd last evening. Using the 7/8" oxygen sensor socket that I purchased from Napa I was able to put a 15/16" wrench on the top and had enough room to loosen the sensor. Prior to that I tried to use extensions on a socket wrench and could not gain clearance around all the drivetrain and steering components.
 
#42 ·
magellan44,

Its been a while, but if I remember correctly, it was nothing more than spraying a cleaner purchased at O'Reileys Auto Parts. Remove the device with a couple small bolts or screws, unplug a tube, spray in the cleaner, it dries quickly, replace.

There is not much to go wrong on these, but mine may have eventually failed on a trip to Colorado a few years ago. I picked one up, replaced it with the new one, and still had one of two codes that I originally had. In fact, I think this may have been when I noticed the pinhole leak on my header manifold that eventually broke. Therefore, it was probably fine, and just the header needing replacement.

Moral of the story... if you suspect a MAF problem, clean it and check the manifolds carefully for leaks before dropping the bucks on a new one. Of course, a new MAF is a bunch cheaper than replacing a manifold or exhaust header, but if it isn't the problem, it won't stop the codes from coming.
 
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#43 ·
RoundOut,
thanks for the reply, I did remove it and cleaned with the recommended cleaner. After that I had to run to the auto parts for a battery terminal so I asked the fellow to check the codes for me and he was good enough to do so. I also had him check my battery life, my Tundra is an 06 with an in service date of 12/13/05 and I had the OEM battery still. It was turning into a game with me to see how long it would last. Well, it was fully charged but did show a bad cell so I replaced it. So obviously the Check Engine light went out with the new battery being installed but I knew it was not the fix and the light did come back on after an hour of driving.

Getting back to the Oxygen sensor. he pulled a code of P2197 and this is the definition of what it said.
1) Oxygen sensoror A/F sensor stuck lean -bank 2 sensor 1
2) Open or short circuit condition
3) Poor electircal connection
4) Failed AF sensor
5) lean AF ratio-fuel pressure, vacuum leak, MAF sensor fault

After all of this multiple choice what's a guy to do? I was hoping for a more familiar code so i could get to it but now i'm hesitant to change anyone of them. Maybe I should pay a garage try to get a more exact code. I will say this that the only thing I can see that is different about the truck is that the idle is fluctuating between 550 and 650 so the engine seems to be pulsing slightly and that is why i thought the MAP sensor might be my problem. But now i'm not sure.

thanks again for the reply

By the way the bank 2 is the passager side correct and position 1 would be the one on the manifold correct! I see that mine are the ones with the blue tag on them. There is a difference between the upstream bank 1 and bank 2 correct?
One other question, other than disconnecting the battery is there any way to turn off the code once the problem is corrected other than by a garage with a meter?
 
#44 ·
Magellen44,

Bank 2 Sensor 1 is the Passenger side on the exhaust manifold that is directly attached to the engine block. I don't recall the exact position of the sensor, but no matter where it is, it will be a PITA to get off. Take your time and use PB Blaster, walk away for a half hour or more, and then use a socket kit that you can borrow from the local O'Reilleys. The hardest part for me (with large hands and fingers) was unplugging the electrical connection. You may wish to try unplugging the electrical connection first. You can also borrow the code reader and clearer from the auto parts store. By borrowing, I mean you pay for the tools and then return them. O'Reilleys has sets of these tools set aside just for this purpose.

Chances are pretty good it is the sensor. I don't recall exactly, but I know I've replaced at least 4 in about 200000 miles.
 
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#45 ·
RoundOut,

Thank you for the reply, yes i was under there yesterday and I played around to see if i could get at them. wow is that tight. I did unplug the connector and checked out the available space. Amazing how tight, Again I thank you for the help. It's nice to have you guys around to bounce things off of. I think i'll order the part today from one of the online auto parts. My local Auto Zone wanted $180.00 for the Denso. I believe Auto Geek was about $123.00, Rock Auto was about $150.00.

thank you
 
M
#46 ·
Fellows,
I have one more question before I buy the parts. I've been reading and I've seen when looking at the parts that some say an Air Flow Sensor is also required. Now, is one of the sensors an Air Flow Sensor and one an Oxygen Sensor? I'm specifically talking about the two upstream sensors. Is the bank 2 sensor the Air Flow Sensor? and the bank 1 the Oxygen Sensor? I know they are both called O2 sensors but as I'm reading the parts catalogs they keep mentioning the Air Flow and the Oxygen and not interchangeable Can you advise me before I purchase

thank you
 
#48 ·
T-roy said:
Toyota sent out a notice to replace Number 1 O2 sensors in the exhaust manifolds (trouble code P0135 and P0155) at their cost as an extension to the Tundra's Emissions Warranty - "2000 to MID-2002 Model Year Tundra V8 (2UZ-FE Enigine) Oxygen Sensor Warranty Enhancement Notice". Unfortunately, the warranty was for 7-years or 90K miles. Considering your milage, I would push for the warranty. If YOU must replace them , buy the O2 sensors at RockAuto Parts Catalog - the least expensive that I have found - $60.89 each for Denso Part # 2344169 OEM. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Yup, I received direct compensation from Toyota for the "O2 Warranty Notice".
I received a check from Toyota that covered parts and labor.
 
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