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I just got a check engine light coded P0770. I've done some research and apprently there are three 3 solenoids that may be triggering the check engine light. It's worth mentioning that when I come to stop and the transmission lever (Automatic) is in "D"rive or "R"everse the truck immediately stalls out. However when the truck is in park and neutral the truck idles fine and does not turn off, but just a soon as any moving gear is engaged the truck immediately turns off. I never had any transmission problems before and there's no hard shifts.

Any ideas as to which solenoid needs replacing?

Has anyone changed these solenoids on their own? Suggestions?

Is it bad, other than a bit dangerous, to drive my car home (I'm 450 miles away)? Will more damage be done to the transmission? The local dealership told me the transmission would blow up.:(

I also have a P0135 code (Bank 1 sensor 1 and O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction) showing up but these are the O2 sensors and, well, I'm pretty sure it's unrelated to my transmission issue. Right?
 

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Interesting to see the dealership isn't afraid to be blunt with you. Do I think your transmission will blow up if you drive it? No. Is it a possibility? Of course.

Personally, I'd rather have it checked out just to see what is really wrong with it. Unfortunately it will be rather costly to have any shop drop the transmission and replace the solenoid. Your dead o2 sensors aren't really related to the tranny issue either, and those too are costly. Today isn't your lucky day :(
 

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I am more than willing, interested and capable of getting into the trans pan myself. I think one of the three is located in the trans pan and the other two are located on the side of the housing, but not sure how to correctly diagnose which of the three is faulty.

Any ideas of why the truck turns off when a gear is engaged? is it a fail-safe of sorts?

yeah, the O2 sensors seem to be problematic on tundras. I've already replaced one O2 sensor and the ex manifold (b/c it was frozen on). I expect I'll have to change all of em in the next few thousand miles.
 

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I admire you for your courage on tackling this project yourself, that is if you don't mind the huge mess of trans fluid that you will have to dispose of. But other than that, doing work on the trans won't be that bad. I'm not sure of exactly which solenoid has taken a plunge either.

The only "fail safe" I can think of is something related to the parking pawl ( Parking pawl - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ) that might be causing the truck to stall. If your vehicle is moving at xx MPH and the transmission lever is slammed into park, I believe the parking pawl will not engage and the vehicle shuts off. I can only recall this happening to me one time in my 94 chevy beretta (which killed two transmissions within 6 months btw) but I'm not positive it happens on the Tundra as well. Best bet is to call a transmission specialist in your area. They are specialists for a reason. :tu:
 

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Yeah I might have to take it to a professional but I really enjoy working on my own truck.

Does anyone know how to correctly diagnose which of the three solenoids is faulty?

Any ideas of why the truck turns off when a gear is engaged?
 

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If it were mine, I would start with the easiest and cheapest first.
 

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I am a professional. 20 + years in the trans game. The only solenoid that will stall the enginge is the TCC solenoid. It has the convertor clutch applied at all times. Replace the solenoid and you should be golden!!
Good luck!!
 

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A couple of thoughts for you.

Professional manuals for your trans might be found here:

ATSG Transmission Repair Manuals .


I looked at the '03 FSM and the code P0770 doesn't show up. It does have a diagnostic flow chart for various transmission codes, but P0770 isn't in there. Could be that things were changed from '00 to '03.

Now, check this out...I did find a post on a Toyota Camry about code P0770, which indicates torque converter lockup solenoid failure. This absolutely jives with the previous post about a locked-up converter stalling the engine. BTW, the lockup converter basically eliminates the slip associated with auto transmissions, improving fuel economy. In any event, read this post and see what you think:

Toyota Repair: 1995 Avalon P0770

Also, check out this TSB:
# TSB #02402 -- MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP ON WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE P0770 STORED. *TT (NHTSA ID #10000657, DECEMBER 23 2002)

Also, check out this thread on TS:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/engine-and-drivetrain/29460-2002-tundra-check-engine-light/


I've also attached the FSM excerpt for the valve body. Sounds like you need to remove and clean solenoid SL. BUT, this will not necessarily cure the problem. As for functionally testing the solenoid, you could ohm it out...the wiring diagram shows it as a coil with power coming from the ECM and the other lead going to ground. I assume it's a 12V solenoid, but I don't know that I would apply 12V to check operation without knowing that for sure. There are hydraulic line pressure tests that can be done to verify proper operation.

I've attached two excerpts from the '03 FSM. The first shows how to remove the valve body to get to the solenoids. The second shows how to troubleshoot the solenoids. My guess is that code P0770 has been replaced by codes P0741 and P0743, both of which cover the lockup system.

This is definitely doable by someone with good skills and some decent tools. As for the mess, I drain the pan using the plug, drop the pan, drop the screen, put the pan back up and wait an hour. That gives the fluid plenty of time to drain and drip from the valve body. Not a big mess if you do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks K and Shall. I appreciate you sharing the knowledge. :tu: I've located a replacement TCC solenoid dropped the pan and the valve body, and doing the work now. I'll let you know how it goes. Hopefully once I've cleaned the valve body, fluid, solenoids of any metal the problem will be resolved. Of course just as that '95 Toyota Avalon posting mentioned I'm at risk of having the transmission fail entirely as indicate by the very small amount of metal stuck to the pan.
 

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Shall36 - thanks for the documents that you attached !!

Can you help with a little follow-up ?

1) Is it just the solenoid labeled "SL" that deals with the torque convertor lock-up ? I can't find a Toyota document that details the definition of S1, S2, SL, and SLT. Called the dealer to get new solenoid for TCC operation - they just FAXed over the same diagram and said "Let us know which one it is" .....

2) Toyota p/n and approx price for the TCC Solenoid ? I saw somebody (ChileVerde ?) post that they had the part in hand perhaps you can help out.

I don't have a Trouble Code indicating, but have the symptom of stalling out because convertor always engaged.

Thanks !!
Paul
 

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Hey guys,

About code P0770.

This is not a malfunctioning solenoid. FYI solenoid "E" is solenoid "SL". But this is not the problem. The problem is that Toyota uses metal valves in their aluminum valve body and the valves wear out the bores in the valve body. Toyota sells two sleeves. One for the Lock-up valve and one for the pressure control solenoid valve. Part numbers are 35215-30020 and 35417-35010. They are about $55 for the pair. To repair the valve body you will need to remove it from the vehicle and remove the sleeves that are already in there. Replace them with these new, updated ones and that will do the trick. They also offer a new valve body for about $850. Ok, so then they also say that you will need to replace the computer after this upgrade, but I haven't seen it necessary in any of our repairs.

Dinger
Aamco Transmissions
N. Las Vegas.
 

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I also have a P0135 code (Bank 1 sensor 1 and O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction) showing up but these are the O2 sensors and, well, I'm pretty sure it's unrelated to my transmission issue. Right?[/quote]

I had something simular with 02 sensor going out after a transmission fluid change... my truck was running strong before this shop jacked it up. I knew they had something to do with my sensor going out... but why did it?

[email protected]
 

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need some advice... trans. problem / 2001 Tundra v-8

trans. drain / refill....
My truck was running great and fast before I had a trans. fluid change at Highway 6 transmission here in my area.

I thought it would be a good idea to get my transmission fluid changed at 100K miles; went to a transmission shop here and fig. it would be a simple service like an oil change, paid $49.95

Now my truck has a loss in power, doesnt coast like it did before when exiting the freeway at 70 mph... it slows faster now. It used to run very fast on the street... could hold its own very well. And to make matters worse, my rear oxygen sensor went out also the day after this service.

I am wondering, is it possible that this trans. shop put the wrong fluid in my transmission to make it act like this? It almost feels like I am pulling a trailer now, to describe the sensation... very upsetting...
I have been trying to drive it hard to shake free what ever is holding me back; and no... its not my emergency brake.. =o)

Any suggestions / emails would be greatly appreciated; I luv this truck! =0)

ps) should i just get a trans./ flush from the dealer? never did that before, only the drain / refill.
[email protected]
 

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Back from the dead! Well not actually; just 8 years later LOL

So I am having a hell of a time trying to track down these two (2) sleeves mentioned below. I did find the 35215, but after the dash it was #24010 (not -30020) and called "sleeve, lock up R" and it was $29.11, so it is about the "right price".

I cannot find the 35417; see attached image. The 35408 in the attached is not "it" and I vaguely remember it was either a valve or solenoid. And I think the 35522 is external so that could not be it. And excuse my transmission ignorance, but is there a lower valve body diagram that may have the 35417 sleeve?

I found these links in a cursory search:

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?Vin=5TBRN34112S324760&Filter=()&SubCategoryUrl=valve-body-oil-strainer-atm&Diagram=&PartNumbers=

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~sleeve~lock~up~relay~valve~no~1~35215-24010.html?Vin=5TBRN34112S324760&Filter=()&Location=valve-body-oil-strainer-atm,,35215C

These next 2 state they do not fit:

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~sleeve~lock~up~relay~valve~no~1~35215-30020.html

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~sleeve~primary~regulator~valve~35417-35010.html

Hey guys,

About code P0770.

This is not a malfunctioning solenoid. FYI solenoid "E" is solenoid "SL". But this is not the problem. The problem is that Toyota uses metal valves in their aluminum valve body and the valves wear out the bores in the valve body. Toyota sells two sleeves. One for the Lock-up valve and one for the pressure control solenoid valve. Part numbers are 35215-30020 and 35417-35010. They are about $55 for the pair. To repair the valve body you will need to remove it from the vehicle and remove the sleeves that are already in there. Replace them with these new, updated ones and that will do the trick. They also offer a new valve body for about $850. Ok, so then they also say that you will need to replace the computer after this upgrade, but I haven't seen it necessary in any of our repairs.

Dinger
Aamco Transmissions
N. Las Vegas.
 

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I got this code on my 2001 tundra 2wd. I looked over this thread, purchased the 3 solenoids plus the 1 SLT solenoid. Opened up the transmission drip pan, lowered the valve body and swapped the parts. Refer to "A340 valve body" on youtube. Shows you what to expect, even though if you're preforming this, you'll be doing it from under the truck. Anyhow, I swapped the solenoids, plugged the truck battery back in, drove the truck for 150 miles and the check engine light came back on the P0770 code. So I concluded it was not a solenoid failure, but a failure inside the valve body itself. So short of replacing the transmission, I ordered an A340 valve body off Ebay for $100 + free shipping! took me a couple of months to finally see one that fits my 2wd V8. Got the replacement, swapped over the solenoids I previously purchased. Bolted the used "new" valve body in and then drove her for 150 miles and the check engine light did not return. Took it to the smog shop, tech told me the code is gone, but that I needed a few more miles to be ready to smog. Tomorrow i'm taking her out for another 100 miles and then smog her. I did the swap by myself under the car. I would say this was 5/10 in difficulty, just messing due to the tranny oil. Get yourself a nice clean Tupperware pan, like 18"x24", collect the oil and reuse it, unless the oil is old, then replace it, but tranny oil is expensive! There were probably 40+ bolts, just gotta make sure you don't lose any and separate where they go. When you put the valve body back, you can just slip them in by holding the body just low enough. Pay close attention to where the springs go and you're set.
 

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Well, 4-5 months later with the "new" used valve body replacement, this dreaded code came up again along with P-0155. Gonna have to look at possibly replacing the whole transmission this time. Good news is smog is not due for another year.
 

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Well, 4-5 months later with the "new" used valve body replacement, this dreaded code came up again along with P-0155. Gonna have to look at possibly replacing the whole transmission this time. Good news is smog is not due for another year.
I had this code pop up a while ago. I changed the solenoids and fluid. Code came back. I checked the grounds and added a big ground wire to the trans. Still came back. Took it to Aamco. Bit the bullet and had a full rebuild done. Less than 20 miles later, the same @&$!? Code came back. Obviously I’m taking it back to Aamco on Monday, but I’m bugging out in the meantime. Any ideas?
 

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I had this code pop up a while ago. I changed the solenoids and fluid. Code came back. I checked the grounds and added a big ground wire to the trans. Still came back. Took it to Aamco. Bit the bullet and had a full rebuild done. Less than 20 miles later, the same @&$!? Code came back. Obviously I’m taking it back to Aamco on Monday, but I’m bugging out in the meantime. Any ideas?
Any luck? What was Aamco able to diagnose?
 
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