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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning guys.
I had to drive up to my sister's funeral this week (1000 mi trip), The truck performed flawlessly (as usual).
This morning, I go out to get coffee and after two blocks, the engine refuses to respond to the gas pedal & throws a CEL (P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction).
I shut down,let it sit for a few minutes, restarted, and as others have reported, the truck worked normally again.
Here's the question: Is this a module that I can replace, or should I bite the bullet & take it to the the shop? I have a 1000mi.drive home & I need to resolve this soon.
Thanks,
Hispeed
 

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Do a search for TLA or Throttle lever Assembly. I have posted on this before.
3 #3 screws and and a 10mm to remove the engine cover and airbox clamps.About 20 mins total time.
The part # I posted is for the 2000 and about 250 bucks it is a large Rheostat that the throttle cable attaches to on the pass side front of the throttle body.
The dealer will try t sell you the whole manifold assembly for about $1400
Ignoring it will put you in a Holy bat farts bat man situation.......But may not do it again for awhile. Your roll of the dice.
Az
 

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I'd bite the bullet. That exact unit just failed in my '00 and it took me 10 minutes to change out. Fixed my problem, and haven't had a CEL since (replaced on Wed.) Cost for the assembly was like $280.00.

Sounds like it's a faulty part from Toyota...because a lot of people are starting to have this problem...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I bit the bullet.
Like I said, I'm a thousand miles from home for a funeral so I let the local dealer do it.
$280 for the part, 1 hr labor (@ $105 hr :eek:) for the diagnostic and another hr for the installation. You would think they would at least give you a break on the diagnostic.
Oh well, as trouble free as this truck has been for the past eight years, it's a pretty small price to pay overall.
BTW, the throttle body was clean enough to eat off.
Thanks for all your advice.:tu:
:ts:
 

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I'd bite the bullet. That exact unit just failed in my '00 and it took me 10 minutes to change out. Fixed my problem, and haven't had a CEL since (replaced on Wed.) Cost for the assembly was like $280.00.

Sounds like it's a faulty part from Toyota...because a lot of people are starting to have this problem...
Could you please give me the part number, a detailed description, etc. so I can purchase the part for my 2002 Tundra which has a CEL P1120. Also, do you have any pictures of where it is located?

Thanks
 

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Could you please give me the part number, a detailed description, etc. so I can purchase the part for my 2002 Tundra which has a CEL P1120. Also, do you have any pictures of where it is located?
My dad's 2002 (V8) has been acting up lately and he's also getting the P1120 code. I've searched and searched and I keep getting mixed answers. Is the P1120 code for the Throttle Position Sensor or the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor?? Also, I know where the TPS is, but where is the APPS? Is it where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body on the passenger side??
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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The APPS (accelerator pedal position sensor) is on the passenger side of the throttle body, houses the coiled return spring for the throttle plate, has an electrical connector, mounts with three screws, and is the terminus of the accelerator pedal cable at the throttle. It is installed by placing it about 20 degrees left of its final position and rotating it clockwise until it touches the throttle valve shaft, tightening the screws, and reconnecting the throttle cable. Here is an pic of the actual component:



The TP (throttle position) sensor is on the driver side of the throttle body, also has an electrical connector, and is mounted with two screws and a hold-down clip. It is installed by placing it about 15 degrees to the right of its final installed position and rotated counter-clockwise until it touches the throttle shaft, then loosely tightened. Then, you need a scanner (maybe the scanguage can readout the data...) to set it to between 14.4-16% of throttle valve opening percentage. Here is a pic of the component:



The Chilton manual has excellent sections (with pics) on removing/replacing these components. If you can unscrew a screw and follow simple directions, this is a 15 minute job.

I do suggest, however, before replacing either of these components, a thoroughly cleaning of the throttle body and, just as importantly, cleaning the electrical connectors and reseating them with a good coating of dielectric grease. I'd guess that failures of these components are largely tied to external fouling, both at the connector as well as via the throttle plate, rather than an internal failure of the component itself.
 

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Thanks for the information! Now... the P1120 code... which one is that for? Or do you have to test both of them?
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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Thanks for the information! Now... the P1120 code... which one is that for? Or do you have to test both of them?
P1120 = The ECU is registering a fault with the APPS (which I think is a range-of-motion problem), usually caused by fouling somewhere on or around the throttle plate.
 

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Dang, that's an expensive part to replace. I'm glad it's not my truck! :rolleyes: I'm gonna see about cleaning all around the throttle body this weekend when we replace his starter. Do you think cleaning would help, or would you eliminate the risk of it failing and just replace it?
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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Dang, that's an expensive part to replace. I'm glad it's not my truck! :rolleyes: I'm gonna see about cleaning all around the throttle body this weekend when we replace his starter. Do you think cleaning would help, or would you eliminate the risk of it failing and just replace it?
I would do a thorough throttle body cleaning first. Pay particular attention to the edges and pivot shaft areas on the throttle plate. Then I would pull both connectors and gently scrub them out with WD-40, a toothbrush, and a light blast of MAF cleaner, lightly pack them with dielectric grease, and reconnect.

If the problems persist, then I would remove each component, clean and lube the throttle plate attachment arms, lube the protruding throttle plate shaft, and reinstall.

If that doesn't do it, then replacement is the right call.
 

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Okay, my girlfriend's 2002 Tundra (used to be my dad's truck) is currently throwing the P1121 code and threw the P1120 code about a year ago. I never fixed the problem but she has had no throttle response twice in the past couple of months (fixed by shutting the truck off and restarting).
Back in the day, I bought (and never installed) the TPS that mounts on the driver's side of the throttle body for about $70.
I'm going to buy the APPS, also known as the Throttle Lever Assembly part #22060-50011, that attaches to the passenger side of the throttle body and holds the throttle cable. $347 from the dealer and Toyota Parts Warehouse (if you call them), but $289 for the online price?
I've searched this subject many times with mixed answers, and since it threw both codes, I'm just going to replace both sensors and be done with it. It's now a safety issue.

What I want to know: can I install the Throttle Lever Assembly (passenger side) myself with no special tools or code readers? And can I do the same with the Throttle Position Sensor (driver side), or does it require the code reader "to set it to between 14.4-16% of throttle valve opening percentage"? Dealer only wants an hour for labor, but I want to save the $100 if possible. Also, replacing both sensors should fix the problem for sure, right?
 

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2015 Tundra TRD Silver
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Throttle Position Sensor
Part Number: 8226-07042296 at PartsGeek, about $32.10 for 2003 tundra
Part Number: W0133-1739174 Notes: Production: -07/31/2002, Throttle motor side $73.10 for 2000, 2001, and 2002 tundra at PartsGeek
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Mikes 2003 Tundra New Carpet, Helwig Front and Rear Sway Bars, American Racing AX186 Chrome Wheels,
Stainless Steel Exhaust Headers, Magnaflow Dual Catback exhaust, Paramount Chrome Grill, Installed LED 6 ohm power resistors one in each tail light,
160 amp Alternator Denso, Gator Belt, Flex-A-Lite Dual #775 Electric Radiator Fans, KYB front Shocks,
Rancho Rear Shocks, Sony Explod Front Speakers with Tweeters 6.5 ", Nitro Rear Speakers 6.5", New Sway bar links
Drilled and Slotted Front Brake Rotors, 194 Instrument Panel LEDs, LED Door Courtesy Lights,
Blue Glow Instrument Panel, Pioneer Avic-Z130BT Radio HU DVD/CD, GPS, SD, Iphone4 Connection 2000w Icon Amp,
Kleen Wheels Brake Dust Shields Front and Rear,
URD MAF Sensor Calibrator From Under Dog Racing,
Chrome Stainless Steel Radiator Hose from Summit Racing, Stainless Steel Brake Lines 2" Extended,
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Rear Disc Brakes and Chromalloy Axle Shafts by Front Range 4X4 OffRoad, Replaced 90% bulbs wLEDS
BAK-FLIP BED cover 4 section, Mod - 5" x 5" opening in brush guard to allow filter removal without removing brush guard.
 

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Update: I finally had both sensors replaced. The Throttle Lever Assembly was $250 (shipped) from Camelback Toyota, and was the cheapest one I could find. My local dealer charged an hour worth of labor ($117) to replace both sensors.
 

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MY 2000 did this recently, throttle quit responding to my right foot on an off ramp! Cut it off and restarted it and it cleared up. The CEL also lit up when it happened, and went away when restarted. I guess my next step is to pull the code just to be sure?

My 2000 has almost 180,000 miles on it, and is no longer my daily driver....and I'm glad of it.
 

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Did any of you notice what the temperature was when you had the problem? From other threads I've read I'm strarting to get the feeling this happens in cold weather. It happened to me when it was about 20 degrees outside. Or maybe I'm just crazy. :unsure3d:
 
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