Toyota Tundra Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Chances are if you are reading this, it is because you did a search because your Tundra or Sequoia has thrown these codes and gone into limp home mode.

Happened on my wife's 06 Sequoia. I have an '06 Tundra with the same miles on it.

"Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 1"
There is a 30 page thread on bypassing this system. Evidently, this is a common problem, resulting in secret extended warranties on some vehicles. So common, in fact, that at least two guys have engineered a work-around system to eliminate the codes, turn off the system, and allow the vehicle to be used for "off road use only."

The whole system only runs for about 30 seconds upon engine startup in some conditions, pumping air into the exhaust manifold to help the catalytic converter to heat up quickly.

This is reportedly a $3000 repair :eek:.

But let me tell you, if you can do a timing belt, this job is easier and you might get by with under $200 in parts, depending on the mode of failure.

I pulled off the intake manifold and removed the air switching valve. It had a very slight leak in it, caused by a bit of debris. I disassembled the valve.The debris was just a bit of oily, fluffy dirt-looking stuff. I decided to
continue down the diagnostic and repair process outlined in the service manual. The pump tested fine. I removed air switching valve #2, Bank 1 (driver's side) and it was obviously stuck open. I disassembled it and found two small pieces of white plastic keeping it from closing. Those plastic pieces are the vanes of the air pump. I removed them and reassembled the valve and it was then working correctly. So it needs a new air pump. You can get a new air pump off eBay for about $125. A $30 FelPro intake gasket set from a local auto parts store.

Attached are pictures of the air switching valve with debris, air switching valve #2, the valve location (behind the starter) behind the manifold, the debris IN the valve upon disassembly, and a close-up of the debris.

It's good to figure this stuff out and do the work myself rather than pay thousands to a dealer!

I will install the bypass kits on the Sequoia, and maybe even my Tundra, to prevent this from happening again, "for off road use only".

Joe
Auto part Headlamp Automotive lighting Carburetor Engine
Auto part Metal
Auto part Vehicle Car Engine
Auto part Automotive wheel system Rim Wheel Automotive tire
Auto part Coffee Metal
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hamilton

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here is a 30 page thread on the deal.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/229399-air-induction-pump-bypass-module-aip/

I'm not sure what P2445 is exactly but whether or not the bypass will fix that code is surely mentioned in the thread.
In the meantime clear the code with a scanner or disconnect the battery for a little while, the truck will run fine again until it gets thrown again...but it will get you out of the limp home mode when it happens. Some guys have been doing that daily for a long time so their truck will at least drive right!

Good luck!
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Hey Joe been needing to talk with you. I bit the bullet and had them work on my truck. They installed the air injection control driver. That was Saturday, by Sunday afternoon check engine light back on. Monday go have code checked and now I'm pulling a p0418. Sooooooo now I'm burning another Saturday at the bluff so they can try to figure out what now. My question is before I pull the trigger on this next fix, could you or would you be willing to do the bypass on my truck and me pay you to do it? I'm to the point I'm ready to get rid of this and go back to a tacoma.
Jim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jim,
Yeah we could install the bypass in no time. It sure did the trick on my wife's sequoia!
However, I think the bypass will not fix the problem if the driver and/or air pump is inoperative. Did you have to pay for the repair of the driver? I suspect if they replaced the driver but the p0418 code got thrown, that the pump is out. What year is your truck? If it is still under warranty, the advice is to get it fixed for free, then install the bypass so it never, ever happens again. email me at joewildlife at yahoo dot com and we can discuss there...
If you are paying the big bucks for dealer cost repairs, we can talk about a better option. Joe
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wanted to update everyone. Yes I got the system all put back together after unsticking the valve. Again, the fan blower threw off a couple vanes, little pieces of plastic, that got stuck in the valve. So after putting it all back together, the codes were off and the system was working. However, the blower IS on its way out. It is noisy and I'm sure it was just a matter of time before it disinigrated. This is the perfect time to install the bypass kit, because I could throw $500 at a new OEM air pump, which is does need...or buy an aftermarket pump for $130, and "fix it". Or I could spend the $225 on a permanent fix. I chose the permanent fix. It took minutes to install, really. Piece of cake. I installed it, the air pump does not operate any more. The engine is quieter now upon startup. After I got that all done and buttonned up, I replaced the timing belt and components, did an oil change, and replaced the spark plugs. The vehicle is running perfect. I'm not sure the engine ever ran so smooth and quiet as it does now. This truck should be good for another 100K before needing any "big" work like this again. I never thought I'd have to pull off the intake manifold on the 4.7L....fact is, I didn't have to fix the valve in my case, the bypass would have done the trick by itself.
Joe
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/229399-air-induction-pump-bypass-module-aip/
 

·
Registered
Many Lexus and Toyotas
Joined
·
880 Posts
Looks like our old threads are gone now. If you original posters here could fix your links to point to our brand new website instead of the old defunct forum thread that would help us out tremendously..
Thanks! Paul Hewitt Hewitt-tech.com We also have some new blog posts about the system and codes that will help explain the differences between our old kits and our new kits! Hewitt Tech Blogs!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Chances are if you are reading this, it is because you did a search because your Tundra or Sequoia has thrown these codes and gone into limp home mode.

Happened on my wife's 06 Sequoia. I have an '06 Tundra with the same miles on it.

"Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 1"
There is a 30 page thread on bypassing this system. Evidently, this is a common problem, resulting in secret extended warranties on some vehicles. So common, in fact, that at least two guys have engineered a work-around system to eliminate the codes, turn off the system, and allow the vehicle to be used for "off road use only."

The whole system only runs for about 30 seconds upon engine startup in some conditions, pumping air into the exhaust manifold to help the catalytic converter to heat up quickly.

This is reportedly a $3000 repair :eek:.

But let me tell you, if you can do a timing belt, this job is easier and you might get by with under $200 in parts, depending on the mode of failure.

I pulled off the intake manifold and removed the air switching valve. It had a very slight leak in it, caused by a bit of debris. I disassembled the valve.The debris was just a bit of oily, fluffy dirt-looking stuff. I decided to
continue down the diagnostic and repair process outlined in the service manual. The pump tested fine. I removed air switching valve #2, Bank 1 (driver's side) and it was obviously stuck open. I disassembled it and found two small pieces of white plastic keeping it from closing. Those plastic pieces are the vanes of the air pump. I removed them and reassembled the valve and it was then working correctly. So it needs a new air pump. You can get a new air pump off eBay for about $125. A $30 FelPro intake gasket set from a local auto parts store.

Attached are pictures of the air switching valve with debris, air switching valve #2, the valve location (behind the starter) behind the manifold, the debris IN the valve upon disassembly, and a close-up of the debris.

It's good to figure this stuff out and do the work myself rather than pay thousands to a dealer!

I will install the bypass kits on the Sequoia, and maybe even my Tundra, to prevent this from happening again, "for off road use only".

Joe
View attachment 67416 View attachment 67417 View attachment 67418 View attachment 67419 View attachment 67420
Chances are if you are reading this, it is because you did a search because your Tundra or Sequoia has thrown these codes and gone into limp home mode.

Happened on my wife's 06 Sequoia. I have an '06 Tundra with the same miles on it.

"Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 1"
There is a 30 page thread on bypassing this system. Evidently, this is a common problem, resulting in secret extended warranties on some vehicles. So common, in fact, that at least two guys have engineered a work-around system to eliminate the codes, turn off the system, and allow the vehicle to be used for "off road use only."

The whole system only runs for about 30 seconds upon engine startup in some conditions, pumping air into the exhaust manifold to help the catalytic converter to heat up quickly.

This is reportedly a $3000 repair :eek:.

But let me tell you, if you can do a timing belt, this job is easier and you might get by with under $200 in parts, depending on the mode of failure.

I pulled off the intake manifold and removed the air switching valve. It had a very slight leak in it, caused by a bit of debris. I disassembled the valve.The debris was just a bit of oily, fluffy dirt-looking stuff. I decided to
continue down the diagnostic and repair process outlined in the service manual. The pump tested fine. I removed air switching valve #2, Bank 1 (driver's side) and it was obviously stuck open. I disassembled it and found two small pieces of white plastic keeping it from closing. Those plastic pieces are the vanes of the air pump. I removed them and reassembled the valve and it was then working correctly. So it needs a new air pump. You can get a new air pump off eBay for about $125. A $30 FelPro intake gasket set from a local auto parts store.

Attached are pictures of the air switching valve with debris, air switching valve #2, the valve location (behind the starter) behind the manifold, the debris IN the valve upon disassembly, and a close-up of the debris.

It's good to figure this stuff out and do the work myself rather than pay thousands to a dealer!

I will install the bypass kits on the Sequoia, and maybe even my Tundra, to prevent this from happening again, "for off road use only".

Joe
View attachment 67416 View attachment 67417 View attachment 67418 View attachment 67419 View attachment 67420
My 06 Tundra, 250,000 miles threw a p2441 engine code, disconnected the battery and it came back. Watched a couple of videos on YouTube. I identified the vacuum hose going to the stuck open valve. I sprayed carburetor cleaner down the hose and the code has not come back. It has been over 100 miles with several starts. Anybody else tried this? and your results?
 

·
Registered
Many Lexus and Toyotas
Joined
·
880 Posts
My 06 Tundra, 250,000 miles threw a p2441 engine code, disconnected the battery and it came back. Watched a couple of videos on YouTube. I identified the vacuum hose going to the stuck open valve. I sprayed carburetor cleaner down the hose and the code has not come back. It has been over 100 miles with several starts. Anybody else tried this? and your results?
On your vehicle P2441 is not related to either of the 2x No.2 Vacuum Actuated Air Switching Valves at the back of the intake. P2441 on your vehicle is for the main Electric (solenoid operated) Air Switching valve that is directly after the air pump. There is no way to access or introduce lubricant into its mechanism without pulling the intake off and the valve apart... unfortunately I believe you just have a fluke..It is an ineresting idea to try for the other 2 air valves but if you have seen one when they get stuck I would rate this very low in chances of succesfully unsticking one but for one of them stuck closed could be worth a try using a penetrating type fluid.. it will not do anything for them if they are stuck open because that is usually the seals are trashed.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top