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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hows the paint quality particularly below the door trim line? When waxing mine the other day I noticed that the paint quality along the bottoms of the doors is atrocious! orange peel city with lots of sags. Carefull inspection of the entire truck leads me to believe that the paint is indeed all original. Had I been the original buyer of this rig new I would have been pretty upset.
 

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Im guessing its the same on the AC since mine on probably the bottom 6 inches of the door is the same way. I believe its a rock guard or undercoating texture that is painted overtop of. The other issue with the white trucks is I believe they used a single stage paint so there is no clear on top for that added protection. My hood had a couple spots where it had already worn down like someone rubbed it a ton. Or maybe they just tried buffing it and got a little carried away.
 

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I have a 2005 white DC, on mine it is only that way on the bed, and it is obviously intentional, for durability. It is consistent on both sides and is present at exactly the same level all the way around, bottom 4 inches. On the four doors, the paint is perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have a 2005 white DC, on mine it is only that way on the bed, and it is obviously intentional, for durability. It is consistent on both sides and is present at exactly the same level all the way around, bottom 4 inches. On the four doors, the paint is perfect.

On mine it's not very uniform and therefore very intentional looking
 

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Hows the paint quality particularly below the door trim line? When waxing mine the other day I noticed that the paint quality along the bottoms of the doors is atrocious! orange peel city with lots of sags. Carefull inspection of the entire truck leads me to believe that the paint is indeed all original. Had I been the original buyer of this rig new I would have been pretty upset.
It is not a color or DC issue. It is the way Toyota did it. I have the same on my 2000
AC. It was designed (painted that way) for durability and to avoid chips. Surprised you did not notice it when you bought it.

Now, as far as the rest of the paint goes, that is another story (meaning handle with care and avoid night driving..the bugs may scratch the paint up front);)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It is not a color or DC issue. It is the way Toyota did it. I have the same on my 2000
AC. It was designed (painted that way) for durability and to avoid chips. Surprised you did not notice it when you bought it.

Now, as far as the rest of the paint goes, that is another story (meaning handle with care and avoid night driving..the bugs may scratch the paint up front);)
White doesn't really show that kinda thing till you stick your face to it and catch a reflection just right
 

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That's why I love white paint...doesn't show much! Just be glad it's not black or another dark color....
 

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White doesn't really show that kinda thing till you stick your face to it and catch a reflection just right
The beauty of white! At least you now know it is intentional and your ride
is fine!

I have it like I said, and unless you do get close, does not show any worse, even in Red Pearl.
 

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nothing out of the ordinary on my 06 white dc. i like the paint job on mine just fine. it lived it's first three years in sunny florida and appears to have been well cared for. :tu::tu:
 

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+1 on the chipguard paint.

Also, the crappy single-stage white paint. My '05 looks like hell. The paint has failed everywhere, especially on the top edges of the cab.
 

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it is completely normal. have it on most of the tundras including mine. having a white truck you have to make sure that you keep it well waxed. white has the least amount of clear coat and will oxidize the quickest because of this. no doubt black looks the best if you know what your doing but white is the easiest to keep looking clean, grey has the most clear coat as far as tundras are concerned, at least that was what i was told when i started working there.
 

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o lot of compound, grinder with a cutting pad and go with the paint. it really isnt that hard to do just have to be really careful with the cutting pad b/c it will eat right through the paint. once u get rid of the oxidation, put some clear cut and a tiny bit of liquid wax (change the cutting pad to a buffering pad) and again go with the paint. i detailed for toyota as a summer job and its what we always did. it would most likely be cheaper to go to the dealer and get a full detail and walk back there and talk to the guy doing it and ask him to. if the entire truck is oxidizes we charged a ton but if you talk to the guy doing it he will prob just do it for ya. once you get it fixed make sure that you keep it well waxed. every 2 months or so no more than once a month. its a big investment but as the dealer if they have epp wax. it bonds with the clear coat and will last 3 to 5 years. no water spots and can wax and wash over it.
 

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I might be going against the grain on this, but white IMHO is one of the most difficult colors to care for. Single stage = dies quickly.... I haven't seen any color fade/burn/turn chalky more quickly than Toyota's white (diamond white excluded :D).
 

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Mine has the textured paint below the body molding as well; it never really bothered me. The paint looks good everywhere else.

The natural white is prone to getting chalky, but is easily fixable. Check out the detailing forum; lots of good info there. And if you want to see what white can look like after a detail, check out my pics or search for my thread on my detail. My paint is in great shape, you just have to stay on top of it. I would say a good polish and wax every 6 months should be just fine.

And I personally like the fact that my white paint won’t be prone to that awful clear coat failure that you see sometimes on dark vehicles.
 
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