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Hey fellow sequoiians.
I've got a question, for anyone familiar on the subject, which I am not.
I've never dealt with air suspension on any vehicle in the past, but wondering, how to tell if your shocks are bad or going south?
Typically with coils it's the rate of rebound or skipping on roads. With this system, I have no idea. Any input would be appreciated.
Cheers

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I have an SR5 Sequoia with rear air. The back gets stupid bouncy when the shocks wear out. From my experience the stock shocks aren't the best. I just installed Bilstein 5100's all the way around and man what a difference. Also my rear alignment was suffering due to my bad shocks.

Mainly when you go over speed bumps you'll know if the shocks are bad. The back will be bouncy. Hope this helps.
 

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I have an SR5 Sequoia with rear air. The back gets stupid bouncy when the shocks wear out. From my experience the stock shocks aren't the best. I just installed Bilstein 5100's all the way around and man what a difference. Also my rear alignment was suffering due to my bad shocks.

Mainly when you go over speed bumps you'll know if the shocks are bad. The back will be bouncy. Hope this helps.


I called bilstein and they advised me not to run the 5100's with the air suspension due to the valving being wrong for the application. If the ride is good I may go that route for now since coming up with a grand for swapping in coils has been hard to come by lately. But my wife needs shocks and an alignment.


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I called bilstein and they advised me not to run the 5100's with the air suspension due to the valving being wrong for the application. If the ride is good I may go that route for now since coming up with a grand for swapping in coils has been hard to come by lately. But my wife needs shocks and an alignment.
Seems like it wouldn't do any harm to give it a try. You're going to need the 5100s anyway if you switch to coils.

As you pointed out earlier, the air suspension and coil suspension use different bumpstops. Not sure which version of the bumpstops is shorter or longer. Just make sure the bumpstop you have is long enough so that the shocks don't bottom out in full compression. For reference, the bumpstop on my SR5 with coil suspension looks to be about 2.5 inches long (including the rubber and steel parts). (It's kind of hard to see without dismounting the rear wheel, or least jacking up the back end.)

EDIT: Got a better measurement of bumpstop - 3" in length; see post #7.
 

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Seems like it wouldn't do any harm to give it a try. You're going to need the 5100s anyway if you switch to coils.



As you pointed out earlier, the air suspension and coil suspension use different bumpstops. Not sure which version of the bumpstops is shorter or longer. Just make sure the bumpstop you have is long enough so that the shocks don't bottom out in full compression. For reference, the bumpstop on my SR5 with coil suspension looks to be about 2.5 inches long (including the rubber and steel parts). (It's kind of hard to see without dismounting the rear wheel, or least jacking up the back end.)


Worst that can happen is blow the rear shocks I guess. The rears are pretty cheap anyway and easy to change.

I just hate doing things halfway.

I'm running the 6112/5100 combo on my tundra and love it. Much better than stock.
I've run 5100's on other vehicles and have been very happy with them. It was my plan for the sequoia as well.


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I too thought about switching to coil spring in the rear but I like the fact that it stays level when I tow and when I load down the Sequoia.

Did they advise what to use since they don't recommend the 5100's in the rear? Just curious.
 

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Worst that can happen is blow the rear shocks I guess. The rears are pretty cheap anyway and easy to change.

I just hate doing things halfway.

I'm running the 6112/5100 combo on my tundra and love it. Much better than stock.
I've run 5100's on other vehicles and have been very happy with them. It was my plan for the sequoia as well.
Just for comparison purposes, I shot a photo of the bumpstop used in the rear coil spring application. Appears to be 3" tall. You can compare that to the one used in the air suspension application.
 

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Just for comparison purposes, I shot a photo of the bumpstop used in the rear coil spring application. Appears to be 3" tall. You can compare that to the one used in the air suspension application.


I didn't take a picture but I was looking over the rear suspension yesterday. The bumpstop looks to be 3 1/4" long. Probably the same one. Or pretty close.

I ordered some 5100's. I showed my wife what it will be like with 7/8" lift on the front and she was ok with it. We will see how it goes... hopefully it will be ok and I can hold off on the coil swap for a while.


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I called bilstein and they advised me not to run the 5100's with the air suspension due to the valving being wrong for the application. If the ride is good I may go that route for now since coming up with a grand for swapping in coils has been hard to come by lately. But my wife needs shocks and an alignment.


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What's involved in the swap? When I initially looked into it I figured swapping out the air bags for springs but then also realized the control arms are different. Is it just the lower one or do both need to be changed as well. I trying to get a list together for what I will need.
 

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What's involved in the swap? When I initially looked into it I figured swapping out the air bags for springs but then also realized the control arms are different. Is it just the lower one or do both need to be changed as well. I trying to get a list together for what I will need.


This is what I am told is needed. Roman at Cool Springs Toyota looked into it for me. Comparing parts lists and talking to techs. The only thing I'm worried about is the electronic side making sure it doesn't throw codes after the air system is disabled. Not sure if it will or not.




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Thanks! Appreciate that. Just out of curiosity, are the shock bolts different? not sure why you would need to swap them unless they're damaged. I picked up a used set of springs from a wrecked 12 sequoia so the control arms are going to the most costly items.
 

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I'm not sure, he said the part numbers were different. He basically compared the parts diagrams for both rear suspensions and sent me the different parts. He also talked to his techs and verified it would work. To my knowledge I haven't seen anyone tackle this yet. I don't mind being the guinea pig but cash has been hard to scrape up lately or it would be done already.

My 5100's show up tomorrow. I may try to install Saturday not sure. I'll find out if the diameter is different on the shock bushings.

Good score on the springs I'm looking to do the same. I'm going to go with new control arms to get new bushings and such.


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I can understand that. Thanks for all the input. Mines still holding up but it's time for new shocks, a tick over 110K, so really want to get this working. Post up how the ride is with the 5100s. I may go that route for the time being to get the shocks done.
 

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I installed the rear 5100's and a front and rear powerstop brakes yesterday.

The ride feels much more controlled compared to the blown out stockers. I haven't driven it much though. (Been getting the outer bands of hurricane Harvey all weeekend). One stock shock was completely done wouldn't extend on its own and the other I could collapse it pretty easily but it would slowly extend on its own.

I didn't want to mess with the front not knowing if I would be able to get an alignment this week since knowing how the storm track constantly changed. I will probably install the fronts next weekend.



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Well I installed the front 5100's on Sunday and got it aligned today. So far it drives and rides much better than with the wore out oem shocks.

One tip is to definitely loosen the lca. It makes it much easier. I did my tundra like that. I did the sequoia at my house and I didn't have a socket or wrench that fit. Ended up using a 2" ratchet strap to pull the arms down.


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Anyone ever see this before?

Driver side



Passenger side is normal



I put 5100s on my wife's Sequoia about a month ago and she noticed a new noise this afternoon and this is what I found. I'm assuming it's a bad strut mount. Just looking for opinions before I tear it apart again. She needs her car so I need to fix this quickly.

I am ordering strut mounts and assuming the factory one failed. It's hard to tell when it's all together.


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Looks like the part numbers are different for the strut mounts for the adjustable suspension. Great. I got some KYB mounts ordered off Amazon. I guess I'll be installing Thursday evening hopefully the height stays the same so I don't have to get another alignment.


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Well I figured out that the strut mount or top hat for the front struts are different if you have the electronic suspension. So if you change over to standard shocks, you will need new mounts, washers and bushings. I bought some kyb mounts off Amazon and they came with everything needed.













Test drive was smooth with no noises.


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Quick question as I am Having trouble putting back in the shock , my top four strut mount bolts are having trouble matching up , I get 3 in and the front fourth one wont line up correctly. Is there a particular order they go in or do 2 of the bolts have to go in the back accordingly and two in the front facing the correct way?
 

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Quick question as I am Having trouble putting back in the shock , my top four strut mount bolts are having trouble matching up , I get 3 in and the front fourth one wont line up correctly. Is there a particular order they go in or do 2 of the bolts have to go in the back accordingly and two in the front facing the correct way?


It will only go in one way. Most top plates have an arrow or something that designates which side faces out.


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