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Discussion Starter #1
First off, thanks to this Forum and all of the contributing members I have been busy the last few weeks doing stereo mods. I will make a Post when I get it completed to tell everyone what "not to try".
I am currently running a Pioneer GM 9500F amp with speaker inputs and then running speaker wire back to the original connections behind the head unit.
I spent yesterday installing Polk Db 651's in the rear doors as well as putting Dynamat on the outside skins of all of the door panels (yes, inside of the door cavity, not outside of the truck).
I also got the tweeters of the DB 6501's drilled and installed in the door sail panel (wires are just balled up at this time).
First question, what setting did you use on the crossover? -3, 0, +3.
Did you Rewire the speakers from the Amp, or you using orignal speaker wires? I intend on running the wires straight from the amp to the front door speakers, so I can eliminate the dash speakers. I appreciate any and all input.
Sunnyside Scott
 

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I set the crossover at 0, you can always add highs at the headunit. Used the factory wiring and just tied the wire from the amp behind the radio. I dont think rerunning the larger wires would benefit that much for the headache.
 

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My crossovers are set at "0". I ran new wiring from my amp to speakers because I felt that it wouldn't be much more difficult than using the thin stock wiring. It is kind of a pain in the arse to get the wiring through the rubber boot but all in all wasn't too bad. One tip is that you can pull the rubber boot loose from the door and from the body side to make things easier. I had to very carefully snip a part of the boot (making sure I wasnt snipping any wire) inside the truck so that I could run my new wiring. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get to to that point. Toyota basically runs the wiring harness through the boot and then wraps electrical tape around it behind the kick panel which makes it hard to get new wiring through. I used a thin piece of wire (with tape on the end to avoid damage to any of the stock wiring) to fish back through the boot and then attach to the new speaker wire and pull back through. Sorry for the rambling nature of this post but hopefully it helps.

-Wes
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wes,
Thanks for the tip on getting the wiring through the door boot.
I am really interested in changing the wiring so that I can eliminate the dash speakers, I am already running my front door and rear door speakers off two channels of the amp and running the Sub off the other two channels (Bridged) of my 4 channel amp.
The rear door speakers seemed to have heavier wiring than the front doors, so I left it when I did my rear speaker install.
I am also worried that the tweeters will sound too bright, and if they do, I will try to add some stuffing in the sail area with them.
SScott
 

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If you are absolutely convinced that you don't want to run new wiring and that you want to bypass the front dash speakers, there may be another option: you will have to take the harness at the front dash speaker and either cut it or run two jumpers. Your front dash speakers are run in parallel with your door speakers so there are actually 4 wires in the harness to each dash speaker. On the driver's side dash speaker harness, you will connect the yellow wire to the black wire (+) and the white wire to the orange wire (-). On the passenger's side dash speaker harness, you will connect the light green wire to the green wire (+) and the blue wire to the red wire (-). This will effectively bypass your front speakers. When I pulled my front dash speakers the other day, I noticed that they were actually 4 ohm speakers. If you left those in parallel with your db6501s, they would really throw your impedance off (would be a 2 ohm load). That wouldn't be a terribly bad thing since your amp is probably 2 ohm stable but it would be sending the same amount of power to that little dash speaker that it is sending to your component set..... I highly doubt that tiny speaker could take that without being damaged or sounding terrible. I also have the wiring schematic with wire colors labeled if you need it.

-Wes

P.S. Dont worry about your tweeters sounding too bright. I find these Polk silk domes to not be harsh at all and it helps that they are not aimed directly at your ears in that location. Worst case, you can select the -3db setting on your crossover.
 
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