[jamesjr4750]

The Intake Manifold was sent out to PolyDyn.
After taking the 4.7L TRD supercharger off and going back to stock for now I decided to test their coatings out.

No Urethane coating for now.
It would be extra of course. I'm just wanting to see what these coatings are all about for future projects.
Big Plans for the TRD supercharger.

The Exterior of the Intake Manifold: Everything turned out pretty good. Thermal Barrier & Thermal Dispersant coatings where needed. Silver Titanium Coating over those coatings.
Inside the Intake Manifold: The Entire surfaces have been coated with a Thermal Dispersant/Oil Shed Coating.
I would show pictures of the interior coating but I cannot find the pictures.



The PolyDyn Interior Coating improves air flow as it fills in/smooths out the imperfections/rough casting surfaces.
The Oil Shed Coatings' purpose is so oil does NOT pool up and/or gum up/stick to the aluminum surfaces within the Manifold.
This common problem of the PCV to the Throttle Body/Intake Manifold on any vehicle using this system causes Power Loss.
Due to Drastic Ignition Timing changes as Oil build up occurs over time.
Which the engine vacuums back into the cylinder causing the ignition timing changes. The higher the vacuum the more oil your engine ingests.
Not to mention.... dirt particles/contaminants sticking to the oil being you're someone who has dirty Air filters. << NOT me BTW.
PolyDyn's Oil Shed Coating is similar to what Porting and Polishing does.... (Of course)... minus the Extra Improvements in HP/TQ yielded from removing material.

Overall: What these coatings Have done is significantly cooled down my Air Intake Temperatures.
You can put your hand on the Intake manifold , applying pressure after driving for 30-60 mins.
And it will not burn your hand unlike the Stock: Bare Aluminum Manifold. It will most certainly do this if you try. The un-coated Stock Toyota Intake Manifold I swear has more heat soak.
More than my TRD supercharger plenum/Intake Manifold. It got hotter, Much hotter.

While I was at it. Knowing the PCV problem I picked up an Arrington Air/Oil Separator/Catch Can.
Made the mount using the existing Throttle body cover mounts.

 

[Highwaylizard]

So how much did this cost?

 

[jamesjr4750]

So how much did this cost?

I will look for the receipt from PolyDyn. Can't remember the exact cost. Not going to provide false info.
Will Report Back when I get through working this weekend.

The Arrington Air/Oil Separator is $199.99 HEMI Air Oil Separator By Arrington Performance - shopHEMI.com
This one with the secondary filtration/oil filter on it isn't going to let any oil into the intake.
I'll be Reporting my findings w/pics on how often I have to drain the oil from the Catch Can.
With mileage: Highway/City percentage, and how much oil will be in it.

 

[2rz-fte]

interested to see the long term positives. theres always a lot of talk about lowering intake air temperatures but when im driving my intake air temp is typically just one or two degrees over the outside air temps. obviously cant get colder air that outside (without doing something additional). so, why even consider such a mod for purposes of air intake temps? for the smoothing effect the coating performs, I understand.

 

[jamesjr4750]

interested to see the long term positives. theres always a lot of talk about lowering intake air temperatures but when im driving my intake air temp is typically just one or two degrees over the outside air temps. obviously cant get colder air that outside (without doing something additional). so, why even consider such a mod for purposes of air intake temps? for the smoothing effect the coating performs, I understand.

You are reading the Air Intake Temp from the MAF. Where its located on the intake tubing.
Put a sensor plumbed into any Intake Manifold and temperatures within it are going to be alot hotter. This heat alters the Ignition timinig, and so forth.

With that now clear... the Incoming air at the MAF.. (Mass-Air-Flow).. you're seeing/reading is then going through-out the intake manifold runners.
The Intake manifold is directly above the engine block. And it is getting heat soaked constantly. Not to mention there's the heads, radiator, etc.
The throttle body with the coolant lines running through them is adding heat an so on.
Add to the mix traffic, etc. power goes way down.
I've done this mod to block all this power robbing heat and keeping it from absorbing into the Aluminum Intake Manifold for these very reasons stated.

 

[DevinSixtySeven]

That explanation isn't making a whole lot of sense to me. A cooler manifold should radiate less heat to the engine compartment, meaning all the black plastic intake tubing will stay lower temperature, but unless the manifold is insulated from the block, it's still going to be just as hot as before. The coating only means it's not radiating that heat to the engine bay. It's like adding an oven mitt over the manifold, now you can touch it, but the manifold is still soaking the same heat from the block.

 

[jamesjr4750]

That explanation isn't making a whole lot of sense to me. A cooler manifold should radiate less heat to the engine compartment, meaning all the black plastic intake tubing will stay lower temperature, but unless the manifold is insulated from the block, it's still going to be just as hot as before. The coating only means it's not radiating that heat to the engine bay. It's like adding an oven mitt over the manifold, now you can touch it, but the manifold is still soaking the same heat from the block.

The debate on coatings rages on ...and on any other forum. Read up the problems the Jeep SRT's had on their Aluminum Intake Manifold if you don't believe it.
I Don't know what you didn't understand. Its pretty straight-forward of what I was describing of a stock manifold that is un-coated and what will occur from heat soak
And the scenarios of driving. My driving scenarios which happens to be in hot summer heat during the summers, traffic, etc.

I've watched the Scan Gauge II long enough on ignition timing to know how my truck is reacting. Power losses I've noticed hundreds if not thousands of times. The timing is now stable. There is not drastic losses of 10-15 degrees lost. Or -4 degrees of ignition timing happening after sitting in traffic (heat soak city) and going WOT, loss of power, etc. The air is being drawn from the Fender well and the Air at the MAF is the air that is going inside the Intake Manifold.

The actual temperatures within the Intake Manifold on an uncoated manifold after absorbing engine bay heat is hotter. How hot. I don't know.
I have no interest in monitoring my stock Intake Manifold temperature before I go back to supercharging. I'm now testing the coatings based on what I know from previous experience.
I do know personally from Heat soak, and extreme power losses, detonation, and extreme detonation as I DID monitor the air temperatures within the TRD supercharger.
It would sky rocket to 190 degrees under NO BOOST while sitting/idling and in traffic. It would not cool down lower than 160-170 at any time until night time temps of 60-65 degrees.
Air intake temps: 90-95 degree wheather....the MAF air entering the engine would be 135-150 degrees with the Stock Air box.
This was with the TRD 160 degree thermotat !
Coolant temps were 178-184 degrees in 95 degree weather. 168-174 at night.
Any more data you would like ??

The temperature of the intake is hotter/and within the intake before the rush of gallons of Air that's registered/calculated by the MAF comes rushing in.
The Stock air box is a pile of crap too if you didn't already read from my older postings in other threads of testing and swapping back 3 times back and forth with the 03-04' Volant CAI. Temperatures were a significant 25-30 degrees colder in 90-95 degree weather with the Volant CAI vs the Stock Air Box. I plugged the hole on the front of the Volant CAI box BTW.

 

[DevinSixtySeven]

I'd like allll the data .

My point was the manifold is a huge source of heat in the engine compartment. The insulated coating on the outside will keep under-hood temperature down, including heat soak at the intake tube and air box. If they did the same coating on the inside, I can see a cooler air path all the way to the cylinder. Shiny helps too...less radiated heat, less absorbed heat. Black is the worst possible coating/color for anything you're trying to keep cool.