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First of all this is not Tundra related so I apologize. I hope that even though it's not about the Tundra, any help offered could easily be applied to the Tundra if the need ever arises.

My wifes Mazda 6 AC seems a little warmer than it should. I wanted to add some R134a so I bought one of those cans of refrigerate with the gauge built in. There's a sticker under her hood that says. 0.50kg Max Charge or (1.1lb). How do you know how much your putting in because the gauge that I have reads in PSI. I was putting the can in and it got to a point where her AC compressor sounded like it was FULL and started clicking off and on constantly. I let some of the refrigerate out and it started working again but still doesn't' feel as cold as you would expect.

I don't know if the Tundra works the same way or not.

This is the product I bought



AutoZone.com | 17oz.ofR134aand2oz.ofSub-ZeroA/Cboosterwithshelfsavingdispenser | Quest

THANK YOU!
 

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It can real expensive if you don't know what you're doing. Compressors are expensive. I would take it to a professional. Will be a lot cheaper in the long run. I'm all about doing all of my own work if possible but not if I don't have the experience. Learned that the hard way. Good luck.
 

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Pressure should be in the green zone on the gauge with the air conditioner off. Search the net to see what the output temperature should be at the dash vents, bear in mid that the outside temperature will have some effect on this, as there is only so much of a temperature drop.
 

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The Mazda factory repair manual cover the AC system and will tell you how to judge the refrigerant charge and the causes of insufficent cooling. Maybe you can find a used manual on ebay.
 

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The only real way to know exactly how much refrigerant is in the system is to evacuate and recharge the system with a specific amount. The gauge on the can is neat, but is dangerous because you cant see what the high side pressures are. If your system gets partially cool and the compressor kicks on, you are probably safe to add at least 1/2 of the can, assuming the high side pressure is within reason. Low side pressure should be around 30-40psi at 70 degrees F and compresor clutch should not cycle. High side should read around 150psi @ 70 degrees. Higher ambient temps and low airflow through the condenser will yield higher pressures.
Connect the can to the low pressure port and add refrigerant with the engine running and A/C on high. Use your wife's meat thermometer to measure vent temp changes.
 

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oh boy!
disaster in a can.
the right way is with gauges and temp readings.the pressures fluctuate considerably depending on outside temp,air flow,inside temp ,humidity etc...
 

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oh boy!
disaster in a can.
the right way is with gauges and temp readings.the pressures fluctuate considerably depending on outside temp,air flow,inside temp ,humidity etc...
AGREED! Before you go ANY farther, check out what a new compressor will cost! :cry3d: As a HVAC tech, I am here to tell you, it is WAY TO MUCH. Do yourself a favor and take the car to a CERTIFIED mechanic and have them check it out. It may not even be low on freon in the first place. It may have some trash in the filter screen or metering device. If it is low on freon, it leaked out somewhere. Good Luck!
 

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As stated above the only way to know much you have in the system is to evacuate and weigh it, then reinstall the correct amount.
The thing here is low feron can cause low cooling but so can other things, inside your systrem are doors that allow the air to flow in from ouside or recirulate inside plus other little neat things. these doors on some units are vacume operated or spring. they get dirty, loose,worn, or lose vacume and can cause the same problem you have now.
Take it to a good ac shop and it most likely will be a simple but correct fix.
K
 
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