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Rate my 2004's rust

3K views 26 replies 10 participants last post by  moop_fogo 
#1 · (Edited)
Alright guys how bad is it?

Should i continue to undercoat this or should i scrape the rust off of some of these parts first?

I just bought it, this is the cleanest one i could find.
Automotive tire Hood Automotive exhaust Motor vehicle Wood
Water Automotive tire Hood Wood Automotive lighting
Wheel Tire Vehicle Bicycle wheel Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber
 
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#2 ·
What do you mean by undercoat? I wouldnt suggest using some sort of ruberized spray, that will only trap more moisture and rot it out faster. I would just spray the hell out of it with a good quality rust inhibitor.
 
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#6 ·
Not a bad idea to wait when its warmer. And as I understand it most of the rusting occurs in the summer time when heat and humidity are at their highest. So even if your truck is covered in salt all winter long, its not doing as much damage now.
 
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#12 · (Edited)
thanks guys.

forgive my naivety, but the rear wheel that looks pretty bad, what exactly is that piece that is rusted out? the hub, or drum brake assembly?

Does anyone know where i could find a replacement to bolt on?

this is the closest thing i could find.

2001-2006 Toyota Plate Sub-Assembly, Brake Backing, Rear Right 47043-35190 | Toyota Parts Center

I really don't mind replacing some parts, I just need this vehicle to last. It's all I've got & I'll do what it takes, even if it's a couple grand in parts.
 
#23 ·
thanks guys.

forgive my naivety, but the rear wheel that looks pretty bad, what exactly is that piece that is rusted out? the hub, or drum brake assembly?

Does anyone know where i could find a replacement to bolt on?

this is the closest thing i could find.

2001-2006 Toyota Plate Sub-Assembly, Brake Backing, Rear Right 47043-35190 | Toyota Parts Center

I really don't mind replacing some parts, I just need this vehicle to last. It's all I've got & I'll do what it takes, even if it's a couple grand in parts.
it is the backing plate the plate itself is around 100 but... the axel needs to be pulled and then the old one chipped off or pressed off then new pressed on both sides should be done and it will cost about 1000 at a shop to get done but it is really only like 200-300 in parts you could do a disc conversion for about the same $ but that will also require the change of the master cylinder to one setup for rear disc I would also recommend while your under there adjusting the LSPV to tighten the rear brakes up a bit more and make sure the parking brake works as it does the adjustment of the rear brakes use it to park...
 
#13 ·
Do what I did on my 2001. I had the bed removed, and the worst of the rust chipped off and coated with a rust killer. The cross member area of the bed needed repaired and metal replaced. I then had the bed coated underneath and a bed liner spayed on the inside. It cost around 1200 bucks, but it had to be done to stop the rot.
 
#14 ·
Thanks buddy. I'll look into that. The front end of the truck looks great, it's just the back that has some corrosion issues.
it drives perfect. only 32,000 miles..

I would really like to get this protected as soon as it warms up around here.. I'm up in Maine.
 
#19 ·
Undercoat it with Fluid Film. Don't wait any longer. You can do it yourself easily. I would stay away from anything that involves paint, it's a lot of work and only hides the problem. Fluid Film converts the rust. I've seen it work and stop rust of multiple vehicles. Do it multiple times over a year (3-4), then a couple times a year after that. I find spring and fall are best.
 
#20 ·
absolutely buddy. I will be putting something under there tomorrow, until i can get underneath to clean it up a bit. Then i will be spraying it again.

I was thinking of trying blaster surface shield, but if i can't find it i will be getting some fluid film. I want to try them both to compare.
 
#21 ·
If there's a dealer in your area here's another one you can try. And I can attest that after 10 years of driving on salty roads with my wife's sienna, it works. It was an 06 and when we sold it in 2016 it looked damn near perfect.

 
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#22 ·
If there's a dealer in your area here's another one you can try. And I can attest that after 10 years of driving on salty roads with my wife's sienna, it works. It was an 06 and when we sold it in 2016 it looked damn near perfect.

Oh perfect. That sounds like a great product. If i can locate some, I'll have to add it to the lineup to be tested. Just sprayed my frame yesterday with 4 cans of surface shield. as much as i could do while crawling underneath it anyway. Ill give it a better coat this spring when i can lift it up, & it isn't so cold outside!

i appreciate the responses everyone.
 
#24 ·
Does the fluid film product require removing all the existing rust with a wire wheel prior to application, or do you just spray over top the rust? Does it hurt to wire wheel everything, cost with something like POR15 then use the fluid film?
 
#25 · (Edited)
To simplify
Por15 is a chemical primer that bonds to exposed oxide to stop rust from further degradation. Only works on what it can chemically bond with. Dont just use por15 alone it is not a sealant it is a primer.

Fluid film- is a thick wax coating that prevents water and oxygen from getting to the metal. Needs reapplication wears/washes off with time picks up dirt.

Primer/paint needs clean metal surface does a moderate job but chips and develops pinholes which allows water ingress and degradation to continue.

Pairing anything with fluid film should yield better results than FF alone and prep work is what makes it look good or like garbage.
 
#26 ·
Okay, but good to start with something like POR15? I would be using their degreaser followed by their metal prep product, then the paint, then something like FF.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Lunas thanks for the info on the wheel hubs/backing plates. Good to know i can do that if i want to.

According to the records i have, my 2004 unfortunately had the crc frame fix applied at the dealership in 2014.
Some of it has peeled away but a lot of it is still present on the frame.
I just sprayed my frame last week with about 4 cans of blaster corp's "surface shield" I also ordered the woolwax pro spray gun from kellsport.

I plan to buy some more surface shield & use it in the gun when i have a chance to lift the truck up. $180.00 for the gun, but with the wands & such, I have high hopes for the coating it will provide this spring.

I plan on wire wheeling and undercoating. No por. I bought some mar-hyde but i dont think i will be using it.

Mossman77 if you're in the same boat, this fella's videos may be of interest to you as well.


 
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