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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone!

I have a 2000 toyota tundra with 112,000 miles on it and I just noticed I have a axle seal leak on my pass. side. Its dripping onto the inside of the wheel and then leaking down the back of the tire. I pulled of the drum and everything is coated in the gear oil. I know Ill have to put new brake pads on now. This is the third 3rd member( Detroit locker and 4.56s now) I have had in this rear diff. case but the same axles and whatnot. I have had the axle shafts out three times so far and when putting them back in, I let them slide on the seals, not knowing any better. BUT I know not to do it now.

I'm going to try to replace the seals and bearing myself and go ahead and do both sides, so for the ones on here that have done it, can you all give me any advice, tips, what tools Ill need, how hard it is, etc....?


#1 new brake pads for both sides
#2 90363-40068 x2 = bearings for both sides
#3 90310-50006 x2 = inner oil seal
#4 90313-54001 x2 = outer oil seal
What other parts and pieces am I missing? o-rings,gaskets?

I went ahead and ordered a seal driver kit and a seal puller from harbor freight today.
I know Ill need someone to press the old bearings off and press the new ones on, not a problem.

Is there anything write up on any of this? Will i need to remove all the brake components off the back plate in order to press the new bearing on? and then the backing plate slides over the new bearing? I just want to make sure I get this done right the first time.

Thanks guys.
 

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retainers x4
abs gear x2

you can prob reuse the 2 retainers on top of the bearing.
 

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I saw a writeup, but I don't remember if it's on here. I think you'll have to cut the tone ring and retainer to remove them. Also make sure you get the new retainer pressed on to the proper spec. The inner axle seal rides on it and if you press it on too far it won't seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks! I thought I was leaving something out. I dont have abs so thats what less thing to do. I was looking at pictures eariler and it looks like a pretty easy job. Backing plate, outer seal in the back plate, then bearing, retainer, c-clip, and inner seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
alright so Ill just have the bearing and retainer pressed on until I can get the c-clip on then since I dont have abs? I can leave all the brake stuff attached to the backing plate when I get the new bearings installed right? I noticed that marlin crawler has a rear axle service kit for 2000-2004 for $145 for both axles. Do you think I should go ahead and get that? Im calling to call them tomorrow to make sure it'll all work for the tundras, which it should I;m guessing.

Rear Axle Service Kit, 2000-04 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
 

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I've replaced the seals but not the bearings. I had the dealer replace a bearing a few weeks ago. It would've cost me over $160 just for parts to do it myself. Parts and labor at the dealer was just over $300. Well worth it for me not to have to d!ck around with it and if it starts leaking again in the near future, it's their problem.
 

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I've never dealt with Marlin crawler but if that kit is for a Tundra axle then it seems like a pretty good deal. Looks like it has all the bits you need aside from the brake parts.

I think all my parts for my '03 (with abs stuff) was ~$325 for both sides from a toyota dealer online. (Mighta been less, ordered parts a long time before I installed them, but I did get some spares.)
 

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I have replaced rear axle seals three times now. I am somewhat of a professional at this procedure but not by choice. One thing comes to mind that I would recommend is to do the breather modification. When the gear oil in the rear differential heats up the air in the differential expands and pushes against the seals - eventually causing them to leak. My stock breather was not there and when I changed out the fluid it looked like mud. Since doing the modification I have had not further problems. Even if you have the stock breather it is possible that it has become clogged so check that too.

The work is pretty easy. Just need to be very delicate pulling and reinstalling the axles (no hammers!!). I would recommend lubing the outer seal before reinstalling the axle in case the axle rubs against it while reinstalling. There is an oil shield inside the differential and it can slip down while the axle is out. If you meet with any resistance while reinstalling the axle STOP and check to see if this shield has slipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys! I had the breather mod done for about a year now. I'm going to call Marlin crawler today to see if that kit will work with our trucks. There pretty good people, I ordered a whole third member from them last year with a Detroit locker and 4.56s and its still holding up fine today.

Thanks for the info lizard. Is there any tips and tricks I should know about? Should I put anything on the outside of the inner seal to help it go in easier? How does the outer seal work? does it just go on the backing plate right after the bearing?
 

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Thanks guys! I had the breather mod done for about a year now. I'm going to call Marlin crawler today to see if that kit will work with our trucks. There pretty good people, I ordered a whole third member from them last year with a Detroit locker and 4.56s and its still holding up fine today.

Thanks for the info lizard. Is there any tips and tricks I should know about? Should I put anything on the outside of the inner seal to help it go in easier? How does the outer seal work? does it just go on the backing plate right after the bearing?

Hey 400exboy2 - no problems. Is the seal you are referring to the one in this picture? This seal was the only one I replaced (twice on the driver's side and once on the passenger side) and the seal itself was a piece of cake. Pulled the old one with a seal puller, lubed the new one, and used a big diameter piece of PVC pipe to tap it back into place (the only part of this process where you can admit to using a hammer) until it seats.
 

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Hey 400exboy2 - no problems. Is the seal you are referring to the one in this picture? This seal was the only one I replaced (twice on the driver's side and once on the passenger side) and the seal itself was a piece of cake. Pulled the old one with a seal puller, lubed the new one, and used a big diameter piece of PVC pipe to tap it back into place (the only part of this process where you can admit to using a hammer) until it seats.
nice pic! the brake fluid is dripping down as you snapped!

if no ABS then you press the bearing and retainer until it clears the snap ring. the shoes does not need to come off the backing plate.
 

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nice pic! the brake fluid is dripping down as you snapped!

if no ABS then you press the bearing and retainer until it clears the snap ring. the shoes does not need to come off the backing plate.

Good eye there integraGSR!! Not many people catch that. Right after the picture I jammed an awl with some rubber over the end into the brake line. Kind of cool though with the drop suspended in mid-air.
 

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Dang! I removed my drums today because my ebrake was not sticking very well, and now I see why. Guess I was'nt to careful installing my axels in last locker change.
 

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Dang! I removed my drums today because my ebrake was not sticking very well, and now I see why. Guess I was'nt to careful installing my axels in last locker change.
You can adjust the emergency (or parking) brake with the turnbuckle located just behind the driver's seat along the frame rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I called Marlin Crawler yesterday and they told me there rear axle service kit wont work with the tundras. So I sat down yesterday and tried to gather up all the parts I need to do both sides. Heres what I came up with. Hopefully this is it and I can go ahead and order this stuff.

x3 oil seal ( for rear axle shaft )
x2 oil seal ( for rear axle shaft outer )
x2 bearing ( for rear axle shaft )
x3 snap ring ( for rear axle shaft )
x3 0-ring ( for bearing retainer set )
x2 Retainer, rear axle bearing, inner
x2 Gasket, brake drum ( for rear axle )
x1 plug ( axle housing filler )
x1 plug ( axle housing drain )
x2 gasket ( for filler/drain plug )
equals all out to be $205.37 from Toyotapartscheap.com
I also have part numbers to all of these parts above if anyone wants them. I got all the part numbers from toyodiy.com.

If the bearing still looks to be in good shape, could I just get away with trying to put in a new inner seal and see what happens for a little while? I'll still order all the parts and just do a complete rebuild on the rear end this winter. Minus the third member.

Thanks everyone for all the help!!:tu:
 

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Well I called Marlin Crawler yesterday and they told me there rear axle service kit wont work with the tundras. So I sat down yesterday and tried to gather up all the parts I need to do both sides. Heres what I came up with. Hopefully this is it and I can go ahead and order this stuff.

x3 oil seal ( for rear axle shaft )
x2 oil seal ( for rear axle shaft outer )
x2 bearing ( for rear axle shaft )
x3 snap ring ( for rear axle shaft )
x3 0-ring ( for bearing retainer set )
x2 Retainer, rear axle bearing, inner
x2 Gasket, brake drum ( for rear axle )
x1 plug ( axle housing filler )
x1 plug ( axle housing drain )
x2 gasket ( for filler/drain plug )
equals all out to be $205.37 from Toyotapartscheap.com
I also have part numbers to all of these parts above if anyone wants them. I got all the part numbers from toyodiy.com.

If the bearing still looks to be in good shape, could I just get away with trying to put in a new inner seal and see what happens for a little while? I'll still order all the parts and just do a complete rebuild on the rear end this winter. Minus the third member.

Thanks everyone for all the help!!:tu:
If you were not so far away I would come out and help you by standing around, offering useless observations, and drinking all your beer. PM sent.
 

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You can adjust the emergency (or parking) brake with the turnbuckle located just behind the driver's seat along the frame rail.
Yeah I've done that, but no matter how much I adjust it, its not going to work very well when my drums/shoes are soaked in Royal Purple!:eek:
 

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Yeah I've done that, but no matter how much I adjust it, its not going to work very well when my drums/shoes are soaked in Royal Purple!:eek:
That sucks - kind of expensive spa treatment for those shoes don'tcha think?
 
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