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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen a couple of guys that have went ahead and done a leaf spring pack rebuild. Did anyone post what/how they did it? I'm curious about obtaining the u-bolts for the spring to axle...the best price I've seen so far on these is $19.50 per...seems a bit steep, but I can't find them anywhere else than the dealer.

I've also read some conflicting info about taking the stress off the leaf spring to work on it...either by supporting the axle or by supporting the frame and letting the axle hang.

If there's a write up about it, can you give me the link? I haven't had time this morning to get into a deep search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So...place the jack stands in the normal spot under the axle or would you suggest something different? Did you lube the spring parts during reassembly?
 

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I got mine from Commercial Truck & Trailer Repair, Dsuban Spring, Cincinnati, Ohio for around $50 shipped for all four. The size is 1/2" Square U bolt, 7" long and 2.5" wide @ $7.63 each.

I bought the third driver side spring and two new center bolts from Toyota. You may want to pick up some of the spacers and pads. I didn't so I taped a couple of them on and had a shop make me new spacers.

You will need a big screwdriver to pry the brackets apart. You place the tip on top between the bracket and leaf, push to the edge of the leaf and pry up. The bracket will begin to open up. Do the same on the other side and then the other three brackets.

The truck was placed on jack stands to the frame. I had to use blocks. I had the diff with a jack under it and two more stands for it available. With the truck sitting on springs (the frame just separated with the jack stand), I cut the u-bolts (sawsall worked great!!!) and then cut the nut off the center bolt, after I removed the bumper stop.

Some popping of the springs occurred, so stay away as the center bolt gives away. I then lowered the diff and everything fell apart. I cleaned all the leafs, sprayed them and the frame. Keep the leafs separated left to right and the shorter distance from the end of the leaf to the spring bolt hole faces forward on the truck.

I used a hand clamp to compress the leafs together and used a long drill bit, similar diameter to the bolt, so I could line up as I squeeze them. As soon as the leafs were tight, I removed the drill bit and bolt through from the bottom and the hex nut on top.

I used a C clamp to close the brackets up.

I left the main spring on, because I did not want to rip apart the shackle bolts and bushings. Mine were fine, but that is a lot of work.
 

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Here's what I did. I did one pack at a time.

1. Lift and support the truck by the frame high enough that the rear axle is hanging by the leaf springs.

2. Raise the rear axle so there is no tension on the leaf springs. I used 2 jacks, one for each side.

3. Remove U bolts

4. Remove shackle and perch bolts

5. Remove the entire spring pack from truck and take it to a bench

6. Remove the center bolt

7. Pry the "C" clips open with a large screwdriver and remove each component, note the position and orientation of each spring, plate and plastic shim

8. Clean, Sand, Prime and Paint.

9. Reassemble. Use the other side for reference if you need to.

10. Check the shackle and spring perch for rust.

11. Grease the bushings and plastic shims

12. Reinstall. Use the other side for reference if you need to.

13. Take it for a spin and count your "Man" points. It should perform better then new.

<TUNDRA>
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the rplies. Gives me some thinking to do...more about whether to go for the OEM u-bolt or go to NAPA or the guys in Cincy...big difference between $19 each at one of the online Totoyta parts places and the $8 or so spent at the spring shop...did the spring shop bolts fit the plate or did you have to drill it out a bit?
 

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^^I had a local spring shop make new bolts for me. They were about 4" longer than stock and under $50. They make them in whatever size you need, so you won't have to drill out the plate.
 
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