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Discussion Starter #1
Was up fellas.... its been a while for me..

I am about to replace my rear shocks for the first time on my 2001 Sequoia.
I know I'll need to work hard on removing the top nut.
I have all the tips on bracing the top.

My question is- Do I need to jack up the Sequoia and remove the tires to remove the rear shocks?
Or can I replace them on the ground like the Tundra.
If I do have to raise it up, will I need to brace anything with the floor jack?

Any info would be helpfull.
 

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It might be easier to jack up the rear end and support the axle just to give yourself more wrench swinging room. But in theory IIRC you shouldn't hav to jack it up as the rear springs are supporting the rear axle.

I wonder if when you do get under it, you might consider just cranking the top nut down on the shock until it metal fatigues and the stud snaps off. I had good luck with this technigue on a Pathfinder I did some years ago. To reinstall the new shocks as mentioned elsewhere a 17mm gearwrench is the hot ticket.
 

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My question is- Do I need to jack up the Sequoia and remove the tires to remove the rear shocks?
Yes you do. This will be the least of your worries however. If I ever have to do this job again I will probably cut holes in the sheet metal above the shocks so I can remove the upper shock nuts with an impact wrench.

Buy two lower shock cushion retainers (48597-34010) ahead of time as these are not included with the Toyota shocks.

Here's how I did it. Let's hope you don't need to go this route.

1. Cut the shock rod with a cut-off disc right below the upper mounting hardware. Change the position of the guard on your grinder for each side so that it shields the coil spring - you don't want to cut the spring.

2. To improve access to the shock on the passenger side, remove the drag link on the right side of the rear axle - 19mm socket and wrench required.

3. Grind off the stub of the shock rod to release the mounting hardware and top of the shock rod. Again, change the position of the guard on your grinder for each side.

4. Don't be tempted to cut the rod again through the lower rubber cushion - there isn't enough space to get a cut-off disc in there without cutting the shock mounting point.

5. You WILL damage the lower shock cushion retainers while doing this. This part is not included with your replacement Toyota shock, so buy two pieces - one each side - before you start the job. For my '04 Sequoia the lower shock cushion retainer is Toyota P/N 48597-34010.

6. For my '04 Sequoia, two Toyota rear shocks are listed. P/N 48530-80105 (P/N 48530-34020 marked on shock) is manufactured by KYB. P/N 48530-A9180 (P/N 48530-AF021 marked on shock) is manufactured by Tokico. The visible difference between them is that the shock rod, which is uppermost, is protected by a metal shroud on the Tokico part and by a rubber boot on the KYB part. The KYB shock is a self-leveling shock and as far as I can determine, 48530-A9180 (Tokico) and 48530-80105 (KYB) are alternate parts and can be used interchangeably.

7. For installing the new shocks, a 17mm Gearwrench is very helpful.
 

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I wonder if when you do get under it, you might consider just cranking the top nut down on the shock until it metal fatigues and the stud snaps off. I had good luck with this technigue on a Pathfinder I did some years ago.
There's very limited access to that top nut and it's a very beefy shock rod. Good idea but I don't think this is possible on the Sequoia.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys!
I'll jack it up and remove the tires.
The more room I can get the better.
I have my gearwrench ready Not about to let that handy tip go unused.

Do I need to brace the axle on each side that I am working on?
Or can I let it hang?
I thought I read on the forums that I needed to raise the floor jack near the shock that is being removed.

I thought about cutting the sheet metal but... I dont have anything in my garage that could cut it.
I have some tools but have not purchased any grinders or dremels.
Its still an option since I wont be working it until this weekend.
 

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Thanks guys!
I'll jack it up and remove the tires.
The more room I can get the better.
I have my gearwrench ready Not about to let that handy tip go unused.

Do I need to brace the axle on each side that I am working on?
Or can I let it hang?
I thought I read on the forums that I needed to raise the floor jack near the shock that is being removed.

I thought about cutting the sheet metal but... I dont have anything in my garage that could cut it.
I have some tools but have not purchased any grinders or dremels.
Its still an option since I wont be working it until this weekend.
Prediction - you are going to fail. Just don't kill yourself in the attempt. Make sure your Sequoia is properly supported with multiple jackstands etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I changed out the exhaust manifolds and installed the headers on my own... I am sure I can do this. I will report back on Monday when I finish.
 

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I changed out the exhaust manifolds and installed the headers on my own... I am sure I can do this. I will report back on Monday when I finish.
I just noticed you're in Texas so you're probably right. Rust in New England is a biotch. Check in on Monday. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I looked underneath and did not see much rust so I may be in good shape. I am going to just jack up one side at a time. If I am successful I'll switch sides. If I can't get it done there is no need to have both sides up and tires off.
 

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I put a small set of vice grips on the flat top portion of the shock stud and used the 17mm gearwrench. A small cheater bar on the gearwrench, vice grips up against something solid, and the nut came off easily with no breakage. Surprised me so much how easy it was I was sure I'd done something wrong.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you have the back end raised up and wheels off? I am thinking of putting vice grips too.... I am just about done swapping out the fronts and am thinking about the rears
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nice man! How many miles are on your truck? Is the ride awesome now with all 4 shocks replaced? I am sure mine are shot with 165k miles.
Right now I have 145k miles on the Seq.... You know, I thought the original shocks were fine until I replaced all 4. WOW- what a difference.
The ride is like new again.

I guess since my old shocks never leaked or bottomed out on me I thought they were fine.
They must be like tires where they gradually go out.

I would suggest if you have the funds, get yours replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I installed Bilstein's on all 4.
I used the 4600s HD
Front Struts #24-185387
Rear Shocks #24-185813

I forgot where I ordered them from or what I paid.
But you can find them at AJUSA if you plan on buying them.
 

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I think this thread is giving people the impression that changing the rear shocks is something that's impossible to do. I really didn't find that difficult, and I did all 4 with my friend, and neither of us had experience changing shocks. The rear ones weren't hard at all, it just sucks laying down on the cement for that long. Removing the top bolt would've been 1000x easier if I had a ratcheting wrench. Your arms will get tired from having them up there and tightening and loosening the bolts, but just take your time and take breaks if needed. The front shocks weren't too bad either. The scariest thing was having a compressed spring held together by the strut compression tool, just knowing how much force that spring can explode with sure makes you take your time and really think about what youre doing. The hardest part with that was getting the strut assembly back onto the lower control arm, but after I removed the sway bar links it wasn't bad. My point is, it is doable if you take your time and don't mind being on your back for a while.
 

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Can anyone verify for me that the rear shocks are the same for the 2005+ rear adjustable suspension as for the 2005+ regular suspension? Thanks in advance.
 
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