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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I was wondering if anyone knows what paint Toyota uses on the tundras, or if anyone has used a paint system successfully for repainting sections of their truck. I'm looking to repaint some areas on my truck because of scratches and such, and need to know what paint manufacturer/system to use.

I usually use House of Kolor paint for everything I do, which is mainly Harley tanks, but they do not offer paint that matches the oem finishes, only custom. I'm thinking ppg's the best way to go, but I'm not sure which line of their products to choose.

Any help would be appreciated

Thank you

BTW I have an 06 DC tundra with silver sky metallic paint
 

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I had mine repainted twice - once due to hail damage and the second due to crappy clearcoat. Both were done by a Toyota dealership body shop and I believe they used PPG pain both times. Thunder Gray Metallic.
 

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You cannot duplicate or use factory paint. It is baked at a temp. that would melt a fair amount of your trucks plastic. It
doesn't matter too much who was the OEM supplier as the chance of them using the same pigments in the paint they sell
for the body shop industry are slim and color matching is the only thing it would concern. PPG is good as is Dupont, There
is also Sikkens which is extremely tough paint, RM which sells a few other brands as well. I would be more concerned with
the shop and it's reputation and warranty than any particular brand. To get a good match the work has to be blended so
a 2-stage paint is best and many times shooting the whole side of the truck is quickest to get a good match. All depends on
where the damage is and if the painter is a worker or likes the easy way over the best way of doing things.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay thanks for the replies, I'm going to do the painting myself so I dont have to worry about a shop doing a crappy job. The nice part is all the sections that need re done are pieces I can remove from the truck and shoot the whole thing so I dont have to worry about blending, like the front bumper and the lid for the bed of the truck.

I figured most places would use PPG, I'm just wondering if anyone knows what line of PPG products they use, such as OMNI, Deltron, etc. I just want to find a system that is the same material as the oem paint, either Urethane or Acrylic. I'm pretty sure toyota uses Urethane paint systems, but I'm not sure and don't want to use the wrong system and end up with the paint peeling or not adhering well.
 

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Don't use omni, it's their cheapie line. You are going to have color match problems if you don't blend. I can see where you are going with your motorcycle experience and it's kinda in the wrong direction. Blend your base coat and clear the whole panel.
You start your blend away from and paint towards the damage. Making each blend pass starting further away by 3 or 4 inches.
Try not to take the blend all the way to the edge adjoining the next panel. A list of the panels you are painting would help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay that makes sense, blending will keep any noticeable variation in color to a minimum right? I'm used to just painting everything starting with bare metal or primer.

I plan on doing the front bumper, where there are some pretty heavy scratches on both sides near where it meets up with the wheel well. Also my lid for the bed of the truck, where its been beat up pretty bad all over, I'll have to use some body filler on it. Also the right side front fender (driver side), and possibly the hood where theres a deep scratch to the metal right above the driver side fender
 

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The hood to fender match is fairly easy as the fenders break down at a pretty steep angle creating a natural flip flop in the
color. The LEFT fender (drivers side) should be blended so it matches the door. Your bed cover should be ok as well especially
if it has a molding or seal around the lower edge. You can add flex agent to the bumper and the cover paint that will make it
more durable.
 

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You cannot duplicate or use factory paint. It is baked at a temp. that would melt a fair amount of your trucks plastic. It
doesn't matter too much who was the OEM supplier as the chance of them using the same pigments in the paint they sell
for the body shop industry are slim and color matching is the only thing it would concern. PPG is good as is Dupont, There
is also Sikkens which is extremely tough paint, RM which sells a few other brands as well. I would be more concerned with
the shop and it's reputation and warranty than any particular brand. To get a good match the work has to be blended so
a 2-stage paint is best and many times shooting the whole side of the truck is quickest to get a good match. All depends on
where the damage is and if the painter is a worker or likes the easy way over the best way of doing things.
I have a few issues with your statement. I have been a painter for over 30 years. YOU CAN DUPLICATE factory paint. You go into a automotive paint supply store with your make model year and color code and they will duplicate the paint. Will it be the same brand as the manufacturer no but if done right you wont be able to see a difference.
BAKING A PAINT will not change the color or pigment of the paint. Baking it heats it and flashes the solvent out of the paint but does not ever change the color.
Matching paint is tough on older cars from the sun belt. The sun will fade the clear which can be impossible to match. orangle peel in factory paint can be tough to match also. I have not painted a car in almost 10 years but I do paint a airplane a week.
 

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I have a few issues with your statement. I have been a painter for over 30 years. YOU CAN DUPLICATE factory paint. You go into a automotive paint supply store with your make model year and color code and they will duplicate the paint. Will it be the same brand as the manufacturer no but if done right you wont be able to see a difference.
BAKING A PAINT will not change the color or pigment of the paint. Baking it heats it and flashes the solvent out of the paint but does not ever change the color.
Matching paint is tough on older cars from the sun belt. The sun will fade the clear which can be impossible to match. orangle peel in factory paint can be tough to match also. I have not painted a car in almost 10 years but I do paint a airplane a week.
Mike , I was a bodyman, a painter and a shop owner for my whole adult life. You missed the
point, the paint the manufacturer uses is a completely different chemical make up. It is
much more durable is why they use it. You cannot go to a paint supply store and buy a
paint that will match in 98% of the cases. It will be close, that is all. The temp. baro pressure, moisture and pressure sprayed with and distance sprayed out will all alter the
color and flop with a metallic color. About 10-12 years ago Paint codes started coming with
variants. The codes are formulated to match better to each assembly plant and the batch
of paint it used. Bottom line you still have to blend. And clear yellows, it doesn't fade. The
basecoat pigments fade, reds being the worst.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks again for all the replies, I'm still wondering if anyone can recommend a good brand and line of paint to use.

Shootist, I was wondering if you would recommend color/wet sanding the final coat of clear, as I know it wouldn't match the rest of the orange peel in the factory paint. Also, would you go with a urethane or acrylic system?
 

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As I stated most of the better paints are an Acrylic Urethane. PPG Deltron Concept is just fine if it's what is most available to
you. I find the Dupont line a little easier to spray but you are a professional so I wouldn't be overly concerned. PPG is more
chemical resistant than Dupont. If it comes out great you don't need to cut and buff. We cut and buffed all spot work in the
shop. Every couple of completes were so nice that we wouldn't. The clear looses that wet look after it is polished even though
it is flatter and glassier. The amount of orange peel is dependent on you as the painter. You can always cut it flat so not a
big deal. Do your cutting and polishing the next day or second day after it is sprayed, it's much easier due to the paints softness.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright thanks alot shootist, Ill try to order up some deltron and see how it works out
 

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Hey Guys I have a situation I just bought a 2018 Tundra and was rear ended 3 weeks after I bought it . I am having it repainted and am scared to death. I am having Toyota do the work. I love the finish on the truck and the paint looks and feels very thick and smooth and the orange peel and metallic chips look beautiful. Will I lose all the things I love about this paint ? What should I ask? Will it ever look the same? I would like feed back and professional opinions and suggestions please
 
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