Loyl2u
Registered
Joined Dec 3, 2017
2 Posts
#105 • 22 m ago
2004 Sequoia with 352,500+ mi. I have replaced handle twice now, 2nd time using the fishing line weight on the cable to give a little extra pull. I also had to tap the motor a few times to get it working again. Try to at least put the window up/down when I fill up the tank.
The other day I noticed that it didn’t look like the window was quite as far up as normal. Tried to close/open it and nothing happened. When I pulled interior covers off and looked at the back window regulator assembly, both of the support arms had rusted through and broke off at the bolt attachment locations-Passenger side where attached to regulator arm and drivers side on on both ends.
ordered a new Toyota regulator assembly, in addition, you should replace the passenger(RH) rail guide(which includes the roller bearing/bracket(you’ll likely need to replace that bracket which attaches to regulator window support arms and the window at same location where corrosion lead to support arms rusting through. You also need the bracket sub-assembly for drivers(LH) side, but not necessarily the LH guide unless foot Is rusted out.
![152620]()
![152621]()
The regulator support arms that rusted through around the bolt points meant that I had 6
![152622]()
bolts that were heavily corrode. Each had a M6-1.00x 16mm hex flange bolt(10mm head) with lock washer and a thin nut on backside of window.
As with the latch replacement, freeing the regulator assembly from the lift back and lowering the window will give you better angle to work on the locations where window/support arms connect. to hold the window in place(it was being supported somewhat by pieces of support arms and regulator arms) I used several strips of masking tape off top of vehicle and attached to window.
There are two electrical connectors on the old/new regulators to disconnect and reconnect. Also a couple of tape points for wiring that you will need to pull the old regulator out to get to the push pins from the back and then reinstall in new assembly(re-tape wiring harnesses), Pull out old regulator and to remove the corroded hex flange bolts, I used a DreMel tool with a cutting wheel to cut off flange bolts from window and then drilled out back side. insert new window regulator, align and there is just enough room behind window to get a normal M6 1.0 flange nut on the back(better future grip) and small 10mm wrench -and then thread the new flange bolt through new regulator support arms/and window guide brackets and window.
Finally, when you complete the attachment of the 6 support arms/guide bracket Bolt/nuts- you lift the new regulator support(& window back up and into the regulator bolt holes. Check to ensure that your Liftback handle release cable is secured by the cable ties so it will not be caught by the regulator arms coming up or down.
Replace body access panels and then interior trim panels and good to go.
Registered
Joined Dec 3, 2017
2 Posts
#105 • 22 m ago
2004 Sequoia with 352,500+ mi. I have replaced handle twice now, 2nd time using the fishing line weight on the cable to give a little extra pull. I also had to tap the motor a few times to get it working again. Try to at least put the window up/down when I fill up the tank.
The other day I noticed that it didn’t look like the window was quite as far up as normal. Tried to close/open it and nothing happened. When I pulled interior covers off and looked at the back window regulator assembly, both of the support arms had rusted through and broke off at the bolt attachment locations-Passenger side where attached to regulator arm and drivers side on on both ends.
ordered a new Toyota regulator assembly, in addition, you should replace the passenger(RH) rail guide(which includes the roller bearing/bracket(you’ll likely need to replace that bracket which attaches to regulator window support arms and the window at same location where corrosion lead to support arms rusting through. You also need the bracket sub-assembly for drivers(LH) side, but not necessarily the LH guide unless foot Is rusted out.
The regulator support arms that rusted through around the bolt points meant that I had 6
bolts that were heavily corrode. Each had a M6-1.00x 16mm hex flange bolt(10mm head) with lock washer and a thin nut on backside of window.
As with the latch replacement, freeing the regulator assembly from the lift back and lowering the window will give you better angle to work on the locations where window/support arms connect. to hold the window in place(it was being supported somewhat by pieces of support arms and regulator arms) I used several strips of masking tape off top of vehicle and attached to window.
There are two electrical connectors on the old/new regulators to disconnect and reconnect. Also a couple of tape points for wiring that you will need to pull the old regulator out to get to the push pins from the back and then reinstall in new assembly(re-tape wiring harnesses), Pull out old regulator and to remove the corroded hex flange bolts, I used a DreMel tool with a cutting wheel to cut off flange bolts from window and then drilled out back side. insert new window regulator, align and there is just enough room behind window to get a normal M6 1.0 flange nut on the back(better future grip) and small 10mm wrench -and then thread the new flange bolt through new regulator support arms/and window guide brackets and window.
Finally, when you complete the attachment of the 6 support arms/guide bracket Bolt/nuts- you lift the new regulator support(& window back up and into the regulator bolt holes. Check to ensure that your Liftback handle release cable is secured by the cable ties so it will not be caught by the regulator arms coming up or down.
Replace body access panels and then interior trim panels and good to go.
