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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I couldn't find a "how-to" on replacing the center bearing on a 2006 DC SR5 4X4 so I decided to do a write up. If it's a duplicate I'm sorry. Hopefully someone finds this useful.
Please let me know if there are any mistakes.

Original worn center bearing on my truck has 37235-35003 molded in the rubber. (Pic 1)
New bearing per Toyota is 37230-34030.
I believe 37230-34030 and 37235-35003 are the same.
I used a Spicer 5002007. It is exactly the same as the one that I took out. It even has 37235-35003 molded in the rubber. (Pic 8)
Toyota Nut 90179-18009 (I didn't use a new one).
Spicer also makes another similar bearing. P/n 5002334. (Pic 9) It is the same as the 5002007 except it does not have any seals. I believe it will work in the 4X4. You just don't get the bearing protection.

Procedure to replace center bearing (CB) on a 2006 DC SR5 4X4 without removing drive shaft from the truck.

  1. Chock front wheels and safely position rear of truck so tires are off the ground. Put transmission in neutral and release parking brake.
  2. Put a mark on the flanges located just behind the CB. A paint stick works great. (Pic 2)
  3. Remove the four 14mm bolts and nuts holding the flanges together. Rotate the drive shaft to get a better position.
  4. Separate the flanges with a large screwdriver or prybar taking care not to damage the faces. The shaft will move towards the rear. Set it on a jack stand to keep it out of the way. (Pic 3)
  5. Place transmission in park.
  6. Measure from the center of the shaft to the frame or exhaust pipe and write it down. Use this to position the shaft after installing the new bearing. (Pic 4)
  7. Remove the 24mm nut and thick washer. Do not remove the flange yet.
  8. Put a mark on the flange and shaft where they engage at the spline. If the area is oily clean and dry first. These must be put back in the same position. (Pic 5)
  9. Remove flange and thin washer. This may require a puller.
  10. Remove two 14mm bolts holding CB. Set shaft on a jack stand.
  11. Remove CB. This may require a puller. The rubber might pull off and leave the bearing.
  12. Clean shaft, flange and washers making sure not to remove the paint marks. Check u-joints for wear or damage.

  1. Coat the spline and bearing surfaces with a light coat of grease.
  2. Install the CB with the arrows facing forward.
  3. Install the thin spacer.
  4. Install the flange on the shaft with the marks aligned.
  5. Install the thick spacer.
  6. Install the 24mm nut and torque to 133 ft·lbf (181 N·m, 1,845 kgf·cm) to seat the bearing.
  7. Loosen the nut.
  8. Torque the nut again to 60 ft·lbf (82 N·m, 835 kgf·cm).
  9. Ensure the bearing rotation is smooth.
  10. Stake the nut using a hammer and punch.
  11. Install the CB with the center drain hole facing down using two 14mm bolts. Adjust it to the measurement taken during removal. Torque to 30 ft·lbf (40 N·m, 410 kgf·cm). You can use a string fastened to each of the drive shaft to check the CB alignment. This hint is in the factory manual but the housing is so rough I don’t know how you’d accomplish it: “The center bearing center line and center bearing housing center line must be adjusted to within 0 ±1.0 mm of each other in the vehicle’s longitudinal direction with the vehicle unloaded”. I let the CB center itself as I tightened the bolts.
  12. Put transmission in neutral and ensure parking brake is released.
  13. Clean the flange faces.
  14. Align the marks on the flanges and connect using four bolts, washers and nuts. Rotate the drive shaft to get a better position.
  15. Torque to 54 ft·lbf (74 N·m (754 kgf·cm)
  16. Put transmission in park and apply brake.
  17. Lower truck and test drive.


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Wow, you joined the site to call BS on someone? I'm not sure what you are even talking about. Where did he say it was $400? A quick google search shows me the bearing alone is almost $200 so how are you not only getting the part, but installation too for $100?
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