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Hi,
Replaced timing belt. Both cams and crank are spot (checked crank twice) on with belt marks When I put my cover plate on and harmonic balancer on to spin motor it’s not lining up with TDC mark on cover. Went slow hand cranking it with plugs out and don’t feel any “valve hit” don’t want to button it up if something is way out. Thanks in advance!
 

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What year model? If I recall correctly my 02 Sequoia instructions put the crank at 0 TDC before you take everything off. You're set 15 BTDC. Your crank shouldn't have moved since the point when you removed the balancer. So it should still be where you set it originally. What do your specific kit instructions tell you to do?
1. Set crank at xx.
2. Check that cam marks are at yy (T or the other mark)?
3. Put belt on, rotate 2 revolutions and put crank at xx and check that cams are correctly located at yy.

I think most of the instructions are something like this. But they vary by year model. If you put the crank where they told you to, and then put the belt on with the belt and cams located where they told you, this would all line up. My guess is you didn't follow the instructions right. But it may be as simple as you need to rotate the crank to 0 TDC and your belt and cams will line up with the mark you want. You're probably close....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Followed directions. All marks on belt are spot on as I said. Thinking next move is to remove tensioner pull belt off cam pulleys and move crank to mark. Then disassemble the rest and see if marks will line up… I have my doubts.
 

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Yeah that's the same as mine. You should have the crank at 0 and the cams should be at that line (not the T). So you need to pull the belt off and put the crank at 0 then put the belt back on, your cams are already in the right spot (double check that with your instructions though). If you initially set the crank to 0 and got the belt lined up with the cam marks and the cam marks at the line, then it's jumped at the crank. Both cams are in the same spot so one cam didn't slip relative to the other. The crank is the one not in the right spot. It wasn't clear in your original post that this engine maybe/probably has turned over since your installation. I assumed you put it together and checked the alignment and discovered it wasn't right and didn't know why.

It's remarkable you still have the belt and the cam marks perfectly lined up because once you've rotated the engine a couple times, those belt lines and the cam marks don't line up every rotation. I'm not sure they ever really line up again predictably and those are spot on. I think the math would make it where they only line up like that 1 out of however many teeth are on the belt rotations. I think my instructions specifically called this out because people get concerned that the belt and the cams don't line up any more but the only thing that matters is crank and cam positions. The lines are only to help with initial installation.

The upside is that since you've just done this, you'll be good at it and the realignment will probably go quick. Be careful with the cam and crank sensor harnesses when you put it back together so they don't end up in the serpentine belt. Let us know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah that's the same as mine. You should have the crank at 0 and the cams should be at that line (not the T). So you need to pull the belt off and put the crank at 0 then put the belt back on, your cams are already in the right spot (double check that with your instructions though). If you initially set the crank to 0 and got the belt lined up with the cam marks and the cam marks at the line, then it's jumped at the crank. Both cams are in the same spot so one cam didn't slip relative to the other. The crank is the one not in the right spot. It wasn't clear in your original post that this engine maybe/probably has turned over since your installation. I assumed you put it together and checked the alignment and discovered it wasn't right and didn't know why.

It's remarkable you still have the belt and the cam marks perfectly lined up because once you've rotated the engine a couple times, those belt lines and the cam marks don't line up every rotation. I'm not sure they ever really line up again predictably and those are spot on. I think the math would make it where they only line up like that 1 out of however many teeth are on the belt rotations. I think my instructions specifically called this out because people get concerned that the belt and the cams don't line up any more but the only thing that matters is crank and cam positions. The lines are only to help with initial installation.

The upside is that since you've just done this, you'll be good at it and the realignment will probably go quick. Be careful with the cam and crank sensor harnesses when you put it back together so they don't end up in the serpentine belt. Let us know how it turns out.
[/QUOTE
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Can’t get back to it today, but since all three of my marks are spot on. Thinking engine got turned over with belt off. Hoping it’s not catastrophic. I’m sure if I pull belt off and put it at 0 line I won’t be able to put belt on matching all three spots (both cams and crank like it is now. ) it’s perplexing as tuning over by hand it rotates easily. I guess I will find out next time I dive in if it’s off. Thanks
 

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I don't think it'll be catastrophic. I got confused when I did mine because I was following the instructions for the 2005 which puts things at different spots. The cam rolled over and I eventually rotated the thing by hand through a full rotation. So I don't think this year engine has a problem with that. I remember the belt is tight during install if you put all the marks exactly on. This is because the dimension between the cams is fixed (not tensioned) but you can't stretch the belt that tight by hand to get it onto both cam sprockets lined up properly. The aisin kit I used has a tip about getting the belt on the right left side cam and the crank (properly located at 0 and the cam at the "line") and using a socket/breaker to put tension on the right left cam in a counter clockwise direction. This tightens the belt between the crank and the right left cam and makes slack between the cams and lets you get the belt onto the left right cam where it belongs. If you put all the crank and cams in the right place and put the belt on with lines and cam marks AND don't forget the mark for the crank (there's a dot on the belt that lines up with a dot on the crank), this will all line up when you're done. That's assuming you bought the right parts. Try again and before you put the tensioner on, take pictures of all your marks showing cams/belt and crank/belt position. If something's off we'll see it.
 

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I just re-read and see you say all three marks are spot on. Are you sure you have the arrows on the timing belt pointing the right way? If you reverse the timing belt, it would put the crank at a different angle. Also your left cam and right cam lines will be on the wrong cams. I don't recall which way my kit had the arrows pointing but that matters and you need to confirm your arrow is going the right direction. I just rewatched that section of the 1A video that everybody follows and the arrow on their kit points OUT not in toward the engine. And I was using the wrong reference for the cams in my previous comments. Apparently the right cam is on the passenger side of the vehicle. I can't tell from your pictures which way you have your belt on but I'm thinking maybe it's backwards?
 

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IA Auto has a three part how to do the 4.7 TB video on You Tube... A MUST watch for me when I did mine. Their videos can also be seen from their website. Top of page it says "instructional videos" AWESOME RESOURCE for us knuckle busters... There is also a mark on the bottom of that crank pulley that should line up... Chap
1A Auto | Aftermarket Car Parts - Buy Quality Auto Parts Online
 

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The belt says right cam but it looks like that is your left cam in the picture.
 
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And the marks will line up on the “T” when the “0” on the harmonic balancer lines up with the stub to the right side of the balancer. (Viewed from the front),
 

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Had a 2007 4runner 4.7 a freind put a timing belt on for me. It would start/run fine when he finished but threw codes for timing. He changed crank sensor, tore it down twice double checking everything on it & nothing made any difference? Finally the codes went away and I drove it 2 days. It left me stranded so he tore it all down again, still nothing revealed the issue? Well we ordered a brand new timing trigger ring out of desperation and when the new one came in we compared them both and seen no issues with it whatsoever. He threw it all back together again with the new ring installed and the truck started/ran perfectly with no codes ever again. Something got messed up on the old ring during the first disassembly but we never did see what occurred here? Just thought Id mention my timing belt experience at least...Peace PS- God how we miss that ol' 4Runner, such a fantastic vehicle that was!
 

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View attachment 163038 View attachment 163039 View attachment 163037 Hi, Replaced timing belt. Both cams and crank are spot (checked crank twice) on with belt marks When I put my cover plate on and harmonic balancer on to spin motor it’s not lining up with TDC mark on cover. Went slow hand cranking it with plugs out and don’t feel any “valve hit” don’t want to button it up if something is way out. Thanks in advance!
View attachment 163038 View attachment 163039 View attachment 163037 Hi, Replaced timing belt. Both cams and crank are spot (checked crank twice) on with belt marks When I put my cover plate on and harmonic balancer on to spin motor it’s not lining up with TDC mark on cover. Went slow hand cranking it with plugs out and don’t feel any “valve hit” don’t want to button it up if something is way out. Thanks in advance!
I just think when you installed harmonic balancer you did not but on right
 

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I began buying Aisin timing kits with mitsuboshi belts because I read yrs ago there were some belts on my old mopar that were marked wrong. Idk how common that is today but another belt or verifying exact measurement between each mark may be worth looking into? That was more than 20yrs ago, just saying?
 

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2005 Tundra,4.7lt, HD transmission, towing package, 4:11 gearing, 4WD, Rino Liner
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My 2005 Tundra w/ 4.7Lt. I changed the water pump, thermostat,hoses, tensioner - anything that I could get to. After I buttoned it up, it started running but check engine light came on. I plugged in my code reader-it said “Crank timing misaligned “ after recovering from the ordeal (I have stage 3 RA) I found that the right alignment of the belt is set the timing mark on harmonic balancer (TDC) must be set to an “ imaginary line“ from the center of the right cam (Driver side)to the center of the crankshaft- WTF was it done like that?? After removing everything for the realignment of the crank (Cams are set to both on “T” - double check this, it’s been 7 years) BUT the crank I’m certain about- straight edge from center of crankshaft to center of right camshaft- that’s where your “0 TDC” mark is set with the tension on. I spent a week bedridden after that ordeal. I’ll be much quicker in 80,000 miles when I change it again.
 

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It's super important to follow the instructions for the year model of your vehicle. The 2001 and the 2005 have different instructions. I made that mistake after following a thread like this back in the day and the cams roll over while you're working if you put the 01-02 where the 05 instructions tell you to put the crank. There are at least 3 different recommendations for where to put the crank and cams in this thread. They all can't be right. Always follow the instructions for your specific year model. I don't think the OP is going to get back to us but I suspect he figured out the problem.
 
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