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in my attempt to change the fluid in the front differential on my 2002 Sequoia, I rounded out the 10MM hex bolt. I need advice on how to get it out and where to get a replacement.

Thanks
 

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Do you have any pictures of the carnage so that we can help with removal suggestions?

I would guess mother yota for a new bolt. Is it actually a bolt.? I thought it was a plug. Its been too long since I serviced mine.
 

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I will take a picture. You are correct, its a plug, not a bolt. It uses a hex bit. I am apparently way stronger than I realized and turned the hexagon into a circle.
 

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^^What he said^^ If that doesn't work, heat up the housing around the plug and then try. If that doesn't work, take it to a shop that can weld a nut on it.
 

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You are probably too far gone for this but a couple of shots from an impact gun on short stroke or a breaker bar is probably what you needed to break it loose, also be sure to remove as much cack from the plug's well as you can so that you can get maximum insertion of what ever tool you use. Again yours is probably too for gone for this. But for others that are following this thread it may be of some use. But as I"m rereading your description you might try and jam the next size bigger hex bit into your wallered out plug hole. Even if you had to grind the next size bit to fit and hammer it in. But as suggested above hit it with some heat first.
 

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You are probably too far gone for this but a couple of shots from an impact gun on short stroke or a breaker bar is probably what you needed to break it loose, also be sure to remove as much cack from the plug's well as you can so that you can get maximum insertion of what ever tool you use. Again yours is probably too for gone for this. But for others that are following this thread it may be of some use. But as I"m rereading your description you might try and jam the next size bigger hex bit into your wallered out plug hole. Even if you had to grind the next size bit to fit and hammer it in. But as suggested above hit it with some heat first.
Jamming a TORX head bit in there might work also. Dunno what size, maybe a T45.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As promised. Here is an image of the stripped plug and of a new plug. I tried PB Blaster but there is just nothing left for the hex bit to grip and because it is recessed you can't get channel locks or vise grips on it. Its a poor design, as you can see from the new plug, there really isn't much surface area for the hex bit to grab even when its fresh from the factory. I am taking the easy way out and having a local garage remove it tomorrow. I will let you know how they do it. The new plug btw was $13.81 after tax from Toyota. Thanks for all the responses. Love this website!
 

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It is probably over the he average Joe's head. I cold chisel and a hammer, weld a bolt/nut onto it. Dang $13 for the plug. Its apparent the engineers don't feel there is a design flaw with it as they haven't changed the design. Nissan uses 1/2" square drive plug. Slip your breaker bar or impact gun into it and forget about.
 

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.........toyota does have a few lame brain issues from time to time. the hex nuts in the mr2 that connect the sway bars to the strut housing strip EVERY time. i had to cut them off and replace with quality aftermarket ones.
.........then i was changing the transaxle fluid...the drain plug was - get this - aluminum. long story short, took it to the dealer since im in good with the service manager. took them an hour but got it out.
 

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What a POS design. Here's what I'd do if it was mine. I'd take that new plug and drill a 3/8" hole or something just larger than the hex opening and right through the center of it depending on the size. I'd then drop a 3/8" hex head bolt through the hole, measure the distance and cut the bolt just slightly shorter or longer than the depth of the hole if there is enough clearance. I'd then weld the bolt all the way around on the inside of the plug. Next time you need remove, take a socket and remove. Tell the shop to put a little anti seize on the threads when they reinstall and you'll never run into this issue again...
 

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I finally took care of this today, my plan was to have a garage spot weld the 10MM hex in place but a mechanic there hammered in a T60 TORX bit in instead...I think that was Tundradrenalin's idea all along. He loosened and I then did the drain and fill at home and replaced the drain plug. Hopefully I don't round it out in the future.
 

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Use a brass hammer and make sure the plug is in all the way. That's how most female hex bolts get destroyed (I've done a few myself with my air ratchet). The germans love to use those stupid bolts everywhere. (Female hex and torx bolts suck!). Tap it in all the way, and go slow. If it feels like it's going to strip, stop. Also, it doesn't have to be blue-torqued. It's not holding any pressure. Use a new gasket (if necessary) and snug it.
 

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I understand this is an old thread. But, the problem continues, and I ended up with a solution which I think has not been mentioned.

I cut a small notch in the edge of the plug with a die grinder and a small burr. I then used a single-point chisel in an air hammer...and, that rotated the plug loose.

I then D&T the center of the plug to 3/8" NC; installed a 3/4" bolt and flat washer with red loctite. Torqued the bolt/plug combo to 29 ft. #.

The hope is, when it is time to remove the plug, I will wrench on the bolt head, and the bolt will stay put (red loctite) and the plug will come right out.

I am, BTW, 2 hours from the nearest Toyota dealer...and, I wanted the plug back in there, in short order.
 

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^^What he said^^ If that doesn't work, heat up the housing around the plug and then try. If that doesn't work, take it to a shop that can weld a nut on it.
[/QUOTE

It may be late for this but...I did the same thing. Tried pounding in next size up still didnt work. Took it to Toyota. A tech there I know said you have to really heat the plug and housing]up well. Once heated, he pounded in the next size and got it free. Replaced it with a new one
 

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Thought I was going to have an issue this weekend doing my front diff. I could feel it starting to round. I stopped and grabbed my torch with Mapp gas. Heated it up, sprayed it with PB. Heated it up, smacked the end of the plug with a ball peen hammer about a dozen times.
That did the trick, I could turn it out by hand at that point.
Really dumb design considering the other plugs are a nice hex nut and the ones on my Rover take a 1/2" drive ratchet head.
 
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