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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a pristine southern 2000 Tundra 4x4 with absolutely no rust. I just moved to Upstate NY and I know the Tundra tendency for rust. I don't like undercoating because I feel like it plugs up drains and traps moisture underneath it. I've considered oiling the bottom side and fenderwells. I'm also thinking about using a ton of spray paint. I've heard of other ideas but not sure what works well and also would like something budget friendly. Thanks in advance for your feedback. I want to keep this truck on the road forever!:laughing3d:
 

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Move back down south. But seriously, a lot of guys here talk about a product called Fluid Film. I've never used it but they seem to like it. Another is POR 15, which is for treating areas already rusting. Each spring I give the frame a good going over with a wire brush and some of that along with a primer and spray paint. Probably most important is to wash the undercarriage often, especially in winter. If you can tolerate getting under there with a hose rather than just relying on the undercarriage spray option at a car wash you'll be better off. My truck is an '02 with 135K miles or so on it. It's never been garaged and has always lived up north. The frame looks pretty damn good, so it isn't impossible to maintain it, it just takes some extra work.

John
 

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POR-15. Also, keep it waxed and wash often.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks! It's got 142,000 miles & all original paint. Ran it 80 mph from Knoxville to Rochester, NY and averaged 15 mpg with 1,000 lbs in the bed. Didn't use a drop of oil. I won't be driving it daily in the snow, but it will see a couple days a week when the weather is bad...
 

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Look into Fluid Film. You can buy it in gallon size or they do make aerosol cans. I used 3 cans on mine last year, seems to do what its suppose to. I plan to get more this year, 3 cans wasn't enough for full coverage.
 

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POR-15 is a good paint for protecting rusted surfaces, but it's not fun to apply. I wouldn't suggest using it on your truck because it hasn't started rusting yet.

For protection, I started using Fluid Film last fall and will do so again this year. I bought a 2 gallon kit w/ spray gun from Kellsport and used just under a half gallon last year. Clean the undercarriage well w/ a pressure washer or similar , dry it a little w/ an air hose, then spray, roll, and/or brush it on. I found the spray gun left too thick a coating so ended up using a small diameter paint roller for most of it (find the trim rollers that have knap on the end to get into crevices). Put a tarp, plastic, or cardboard on the garage floor. The stuff stinks for a few days and you should let the truck sit a couple days before driving. In the last year, though, the rust on my truck hasn't gotten any worse. Be sure to drop the spare tire to treat the rear crossmember. I treated the spare rim while I had it off, too.
 

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Yeah, DONT use POR-15 yet.....That is for when its already rusted. The stuff does NOT stick well at all to bare metal, much less already painted surfaces. It will peel, and THEN trap moisture under it, actually accelerating rusting.

Lots of people up here coat the bottoms of their trucks with used motor oil. I would try the Fluid Film. Thinking about getting some myself soon.

And yes, I agree, WASH YOUR UNDERCARRIAGE REGULARLY!!!....Do NOT rely on the automatic under-sprayers at the car washes...they suck and wont do a good job at all.
You have to use the hose.

Also, if you have nice alloy rims, do yourself a favor and get a spare set to swap over ever year. Costs about $80 to get all 4 tires swapped over around here....Or get a 2nd set of tires too.

And Welcome to Rochester. I was born and lived there till I was 10, then moved a bit south. Ended up working in downtown for about 10yrs.
Unfortunately, no place to go 4wheelin at all around there.... not even seasonal roads...and everything is FLAT up there along the Lake.

LexusSM, I tell ya what....I'll do you a HUGE favor.... ;)

I'll trade you straight up, MY 2000 AC with only 135K miles for YOUR Tundie...That way you wont have to stress about watching yours rust out from underneath you....Mine has already started to...So you wont stress with waiting for it to start... :D
 

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Nice Truck Dude! Buy a winter vehicle instead.

<TUNDRA>
X2. For the OP, nice clean ride you got. Keep it clean underneath with proper washing and add the protection as people already posted. I would also add those Ivan wheels are
not going to like playing in salt. Suggest you have a winter backup set for wheels, or better yet, get a DD to play in the salt.
 

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Oh yeah, someone mentioned earlier about the spare tire. Make sure you drop that bad boy down and pull it out at least 2 or three times over the winter, to wash inside it and to spray up around the crossmember and winch. Then lube the winch with some Liquid Wrench, or what I prefer, Castle Thrust that you can get at NAPA.
 

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I'm here in MA with my 2004 since new Tundra. 112,000 miles and for the first 6 years, it was my daily driver and now it is my tow vehicle/winter beater. I wash my underside after every snow/chemical-salt event and my underside looks great. Surface rust at the welds but otherwise, nothing to worry about at all.

I will wait a day or 2 after all the roads are sufficiently dry and spend a few minutes at the $2.50 spray it yourself place and don't really care about the top of the truck or the paint rather, I just make sure the underside is sprayed off.

I'm too lazy to put any coating underneath, too cheap too. I'd rather take the time and make sure most of the salt/chloride/whatever it is they put on the roads, off the bottom.
 

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Yeah, DONT use POR-15 yet.....That is for when its already rusted. The stuff does NOT stick well at all to bare metal, much less already painted surfaces. It will peel, and THEN trap moisture under it, actually accelerating rusting.
never saw this problem...ever. and i lived in alaska (a pretty wet place 11 months of the year) and i knew a ton of people that used it on 4x4s, atvs, and trailers. only problems i ever had or saw was the uv getting to it, but that was before the uv topcoat stuff came out.
 

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I live in southern Indiana near Louisville, where a lot of salt, brine and who knows what is used on our roads during the winter. My remedy for getting the salt and junk from under my 2010 Tundra, my wife's 05' Solara, and every vehicle I have owned in the past 20-plus years, is to wait for a day above freezing, get out our little metal sprinkler, hook it up and straddle drive over it several times with each vehicle. I move closer to one side than drive where the sprinkler is closer to the other side to get as much grime off as I can. I see lots of crap running down the driveway while doing this so I know it helps. None of my vehicles that I had purchased new, have ever had any frame rust up to now. The frame under my Tundra looks like new so far.

I will be looking for the mentioned Fluid film from earlier in this thread. Seems like a good idea.:tu:

By the way, I drain the hose before winter and each time I finish washing under the vehicles. Otherwise it's not going to be a good experience the next time you want do wash underneath your truck in winter.:)
 

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Thanks! It's got 142,000 miles & all original paint. Ran it 80 mph from Knoxville to Rochester, NY and averaged 15 mpg with 1,000 lbs in the bed. Didn't use a drop of oil. I won't be driving it daily in the snow, but it will see a couple days a week when the weather is bad...
I have to tell you about the time I lived in Rochester. It was between mid 60's and 4 years later. We were contracting at Kodak and had guys coming in from all parts of the country working space stuff. One guy came from Phoenix and almost cried when his car rusted after 1 year. Now I'm in Phoenix area and rust is nonexistant unless you go to Mexican beaches like I used to.
 

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never saw this problem...ever. and i lived in alaska (a pretty wet place 11 months of the year) and i knew a ton of people that used it on 4x4s, atvs, and trailers. only problems i ever had or saw was the uv getting to it, but that was before the uv topcoat stuff came out.
POR15s instructions indicate the surface has to be rough for the paint to stick, so painted surfaces and finely standed metal aren't good. Considering the circumstances I'd advise against sanding down the factory-applied paint on the entire frame then hoping you hit every area w/ the POR15 or that the POR15 doesnt' flake off a place you missed w/ the sandpaper or wire wheel. I'd say it's certainly an option if his frame starts to rust in places. Just my $0.02.

I painted my rear axle and diff housing last year w/ POR15 as I had surface rust all over it. Took quite a while and was messy as heck.
 

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Washing your truck all winter makes it look nice, but the info I got was that most of the rusting actually takes place in the summer when the humidity is high. The best prevention is drilling holes and spraying a rust inhibitor once a year. Rust Check I believe is available in the States. Or look for something similar. Vehicle frames dont usaully rot away. Yes, I know, the Tundra frame rust recall. But next time you're at a stop light check out some of the older vehicles around you that are rusting. Rockers, rear hatches, bottoms of doors, wheel wells etc. You cant stop that type of rust just by washing it. You need to have something applied to neutralize the rust. You can do it yourself maybe but it needs to be something thin enough to creep into all the crevises where moisture gets trapped. If it's a thick paste it wont be able to creep into all the spots you cant get to.
I had an old Ford parked next to my friends Mazda years ago. His looked like brand new and mine was shot to hell with rust. Both were about 15 years old with about 300 000kms on each. The only difference was oil spray. He had it done once a year. Mine was never done. Been going to Krown (Canada only I think) rustproofing ever since and all my vehicles look great. And the added bonus is the hardware. All bolts and nuts come right off like new. Like last year when I had to replace my links. Both popped right off. Meanwhile other guys one here are using blow torches and saws to remove them.
 
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