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Discussion Starter #21
All done! Truck is back on all four wheels now, seems a bit low after being up on stands all weekend... hmmm...

Anyway, pics!

CIMG3635.jpg
CIMG3636.jpg

Of course now I see a spot I missed :mad: Guess I'll just get it next time I have the POR15 out.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
so when you getting back under there and painting the rest of the rust? ;)
Wise guy ehh?

Actually the frame is new, it's pretty much just the driveshaft and bumpers on the undercarriage that are rusty. There's a little bit of body rust but I plan on taking care of that before winter. I'm also not worried about the bumpers because I'm planning on fabbing some off road bumpers once I have some money for good tools and a daily driver.
 

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All done! Truck is back on all four wheels now, seems a bit low after being up on stands all weekend... hmmm...

Anyway, pics!




Of course now I see a spot I missed :mad: Guess I'll just get it next time I have the POR15 out.
Great job! Hope you were carefull around the threads of the fill and drain plug on the differential. That crap sticks like glue if it gets in there and dries. That's why I purposely avoided all nuts/bolts when I painted over the differential, rear driveshaft and backplate for the rear drums.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I did a very light coat over the fill plug and only painted the top of the drain plug. That little ring where the drain is always has oil residue in it anyway, so no need to glop it up with paint.
 

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If you still have any left over, you may want to consider wirebrushing the brake proportioning valve by hand and painting that over with a small 1/2-3/4" brush. If you've ever looked at the replacement/inspection sheets for the frame replacement, they showed a really rotted out proportioning valve with a hole in the top.....just a suggestion. That and also the underside of the pickup bed with the silver or black stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I actually did hit the valve with some of the black por15 but I didn't do a very thorough job. I was thinking about doing the underside of the bed, I hit some of the areas that had surface rust but most of it is still in good shape thanks to it being undercoated.
 

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Good to know I'm not alone. Have had my '04' Tundra since new and have only just realised how bad the Rear diff is through rust. Area you had a problem with is not too bad but the front of the diff, the cone (a casting) where the prop shaft drive emerges from is in a sorry state indeed. Rusting out badley, metal laminating in places, looks like it has been salvaged from a ship wreck! Have started removing/chipping off as much laminated metal/rust as possible, then will be painting the axle casing etc with POR-15. Toyota really chose some ****ty metal to make this compnent from...big time! Our roads are salted pretty heavily however, diff should have stood up better than this. Seen 20 year old Fords & Gm's here in Ontario with Diffs that have stood up far better than my Toyota Tundra. Reason I have added to the thread is for any owners out there who have ist Gen Tundra's in any of the 'salt' belts to get under there and have a look. I never noticed the problem untill it had progressed too far. Frame is reasonable and truck was rust proofed every year or so....but Diff did not benefit it seems:).

My previous admiration for Toyota as a quality product relatively 'bullet proof', has taken a severe knock I am afraid, as I have had three. Would have to think again for a future purchase!
 

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Hi all,

I'm starting this thread in advance so that once I get this project started in a few minutes I don't decide I'm too lazy to post a decent writeup. For those who haven't seen my other thread, I have a leak in the rear differential due to rust. I will be attempting to repair it using JB Weld or a mig, depending on how the metal looks.

I will post pictures later on after I've made some progress.
Wow, nice work. Curious how long this repair lasted. My 2000 is leaking pretty bad and not sure what I should do. Thanks.

Aaron
 

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Mine just started doing this. It sounds like this is a one pice cover and doesn't come off? If so, is the JB Weld still recommended?
 

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I applied JB weld over a pin hold last April. It held until a few days ago where it's starting to slowly leak again. This is a bad design. Not sure what the best fix is, anyone have any updated info?
 
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