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Discussion Starter #1
My rear window will not roll down in my 2004 Toyota CrewMax. I have checked my fuses and connections up to the last connector attached to motor. I am getting 12-14 volts to motor when I engage switch. I can hear the relay clicking and when I pull the connector from the motor, I get 13-14v across the red/green wires.

Can you replace just the motor or do you need to replace the entire window assembly?

Stephen Hadwin
 

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Whoa... Where'd you get a 2004 Crew Max?!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Toyota Tundra.jpg I am the original owner, love the truck, has 100k miles and still going strong, just having problems with the rear window.

4.7liter SR5 2WD

Stephen
 

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Sorry Stephen I was messin with you. The first generation tundras came as "access cab" and "double cab", so you my friend have a double cab. A very nice one I might add!

Back in the day I had a 2000 4.7 4wd access cab and my little brother had a 2006 double cab like yours. Both great trucks!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have found crewmax, double cab, access cab very confusing, so I labeled it with what I believe is the current name for a Tundra with full size doors in the rear. I was hesitant to call it a CrewMax, but now remember it being called an Access Cab. Thanks for the reminder, with all that said, any advice for the motor assembly for the rear/back window :)
 

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Sometimes the window linkage or gears get jammed and sometimes the motors will burn out.

I would start by checking to see if the window lock button on the door panel is engaged and if that's not the case start investigating the possibility of the window being jammed.
 

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Haven't really looked at what's behind the plastic cover since I just got my Tundra. But if you tumble the seats forward there are two nuts which attach the plastic cover. Remove those and I would assume there might be a motor in there.
 

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Start investigating Stephen!

You can also find lots of info regarding this issue if you google "2004 tundra back window not working".
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone for the advice. A little bit more information or a little more clarity on my part. Here is what I have done so far.
1. Acquired a schematic showing the fuse locations and wiring diagram
2. Checked all fuses that are inline and they were good
3. Checked power with a volt meter at each fuse location and each terminal connection
4. Pulled back plastic over behind back seat so I could locate terminal blocks in rear panel
5. Check power at last terminal that splits, power was 13v on red wire, which leads to electric motor on window crank assembly
6. Pulled off the metal plate that shields the entire rear window directly behind the plastic panel, providing visibility to window and window crank assembly
7. Checked limit switch function on the split harness and determined it functioned properly
8. Checked linkage in window assembly for any binding, there did not appear to be any binding
9. Tried to remove the window crank assembly be removing the three screws that secures it to cab frame, after I loosended the crank assembly, I was unable to determine how to disassemble the crank assembly from the linkage.
10. The crank assembly does not look like any images I have found in various automotive parts, they all have metal linkages, my unit appears to have two cable linkages that rotate like a drill motor flexible drive shaft.

This is where I had stopped, trying to locate more information about the window crank assembly. I would like to tear down motor on a bench and not in the confines of the cab chassis, so looking for a way to disengage the motor assembly without removing the entire window.

If anyone has removed or replaced the window crank, I would be most appreciative of any advice.

:ts:

Stephen
 

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I had this happen to me. And I posted about it here: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/228265-center-rear-window-regulator-motor/

The important post for you is the last one:

I wanted to update for any fellow members that have the same issue. I tore it all down and determined that it was indeed the motor and not the relay or a fuse or something. I did this by making sure when the switch was activated, there was voltage to the motor. Then I took the motor apart and found that the brushes (those little carbon cubes) were worn completely. So, I took my motor to a local electric motor rebuild shop and had some brushes custom made to fit my motor and, 40 bucks later, I had it all reassembled and it works great. A far sight better than buying the whole regulator assembly and reinstalling the whole thing. PS For those of you who might not have a willing electrical motor rebuild shop in your area: the side window motors that you can get for like 50 bucks online did seem to have the same brushes. For not much more, you can buy one of those and harvest the brushes for your rear center window motor.
 

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ITs simple, if you have power at the motor, no need to check every split, relay, switch and fuse....power is getting there.

Next stop, the motor. Motors fail at the brushes as explained above. Have someone hold the window switch down and smack the motor with a wrench or something with a bit of weight, dont be surprised if it works just fine. However, its a sign that the brushes are worn or you have a tarnish on the commutator bar (place where the brushes ride)..some people call that the armature but thats the body of the ele motor.... if you do have a buildup on the commutator bar, its not difficult to disassemble the motor and polish the commutator with some 1000grit sand paper. This provided the brushes are in good shape.
 

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Good stuff guys!
 

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My rear window will not roll down in my 2004 Toyota CrewMax. I have checked my fuses and connections up to the last connector attached to motor. I am getting 12-14 volts to motor when I engage switch. I can hear the relay clicking and when I pull the connector from the motor, I get 13-14v across the red/green wires.

Can you replace just the motor or do you need to replace the entire window assembly?

Stephen Hadwin
No you're going to need to replace the whole regulator.
 
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