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MtnClimber, regarding your two questions:
1) If by the "rubber spring isolators" you mean the thin disks at the top of the coils, then, yes, I removed them. They don't even nest well inside the Revtek spacers and I'm betting that two stacked spacers would be terribly unsafe. Additionally, the old isolators were very worn--worn through at the coil ends.

2) I didn't take a ruler to the Revtek spacers, but they're described as 1.5" and that seems correct. I'll shoot a pic and post it when/if I get can escape my desk a few minutes this afternoon.

I was out of town for the last 4 days so, I still haven't taken it to the dealer to get their assessment of how badly the LCA/bushing problems are going to raid my wallet. I'll give an update on that when I get the news.
 

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Even a close-up photo would help as it could be compared to Rincon's photo of his installed DIY 0.8 inch thick spacers.
Ran out and took a few quick pics to post for you. End result is that gap between top of new 275/55R20 tire and wheel well is 7" whereas before 441R and 5100 install it was 5"

Hope that helps.
 

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Ran out and took a few quick pics to post for you. End result is that gap between top of new 275/55R20 tire and wheel well is 7" whereas before 441R and 5100 install it was 5"
Yes, this is very helpful. There seems to be some disagreement or confusion in this thread about lift vs spacer thickness. Your additional data point should provide more clarity.

Comparing your photo (without isolator) to Rincon's photos (with isolator) it looks like the Revtek spacer is about 1.5 inches thick. It protrudes about a half inch below the lower rim of the spring retainer "pan."

Considering the rear suspension geometry, one might expect a nominal lift of about 2.25 inches without isolator removal. (When the wheel droops 3 inches, the spring expands about 2 inches.) If the effective (compressed) thickness of the isolator is about 1/8 inch (just a wild guess), then the expected lift would be about 2.1 inches with isolator removal. Your observed lift is consistent with this expectation and seems to confirm the geometric 2:3 ratio for spacer thickness to lift.

Thanks for posting your experience and photos!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I concur with the 2:3 estimation of spacer vs lift. (My statement of 1:1 cannot possibly be correct.)

The revtek installed pic protrudes almost exactly as much as my original 1-1/4" spacer did and the side view picture shows the lift.

My current spacer is .800, which I posted dimensions for, is pretty nice but I'd actually like to go back to the 1-1/4".

I think we found out max and mins for this mod. Dont bother with less than .800 and dont go over 1-1/4" spacer thickness.
 

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I concur with the 2:3 estimation of spacer vs lift. (My statement of 1:1 cannot possibly be correct.)

The revtek installed pic protrudes almost exactly as much as my original 1-1/4" spacer did and the side view picture shows the lift.

My current spacer is .800, which I posted dimensions for, is pretty nice but I'd actually like to go back to the 1-1/4".

I think we found out max and mins for this mod. Dont bother with less than .800 and dont go over 1-1/4" spacer thickness.
After getting more lift than expected from new front struts, I'm revisiting these rear coil spring spacers. So I picked up a set of the Revtek 441R. Their measured thickness is 1 - 11/16". After taking some measurements of the parts on the truck, I think the spring isolators are about 1/4" thick. So the net added thickness of the Revteks after removing isolators is estimated at 1 - 7/16". That would translate to about 2.1" lift (using the 2:3 spacer:lift ratio). So the Revteks are a bit thicker than the 1 - 1/4" target quoted above, but I think should still be acceptable in my case given that compensation for sagging rear springs needs to be made in addition to adding lift over stock ride height.

The high durometer polyurethane is easily machinable with sharp tools, as long as feed rate is limited to avoid heat buildup and clamping fixtures do not cause excessive distortion of the part. (The top surface of the Revtek comes as a machined surface.) So it would be possible to face off the top of the spacer if one wants less lift.

The part of the Revtek that nests inside the top of the coil spring is 1 - 1/4" tall; much longer than necessary. In preparation for installation, I'm milling a half an inch off the bottom surface. (Will then be that much less that the internal compressor needs to compress the spring in order to fit the spacer into the gap between the frame and the spring.)
 

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Installed the Revtek 441R rear spring spacers today. The guidance given in the OP was extremely helpful. A few other things that I did that maybe helped some were:

- Besides the jack stands I placed a support under the hitch so if anything slipped while I was horsing around under there, the vehicle couldn't fall.

- Removed the bolt from the top of the rear shock to gain an additional inch of droop. No need to disconnect the sway bar to do this job.

- Added a beveled washer to the internal spring compressor (see photo) to minimize the bending moment on the shaft. (The centerline of the spring is not perpendicular to the bottom surface of the spring carrier.) Not sure this made any difference but it didn't do any harm either.

- Attached a 2" ratchet strap before compressing the spring (2nd photo). That assured that the top of the spring did not tilt to the side to any substantial degree throughout the process.

- Compressed the spring using the floor jack under the spring carrier. Then attached the spring compressor finger tight while the spring was compressed to the point that no weight was left on the jack stand. No need to tighten the spring compressor further; after gently lowering the floor jack and prying down on the upper control arm that gave just enough room to remove the isolator and insert the spacer.

I have attached a photo of the spring isolators in case anyone wonders what they look like. Their effective thickness is about 1/4" as estimated previously.

The net gain in rear ride height after removing the Coil SumoSprings (-1") and inserting the Revtek spacers (+2") is about 1 inch. Truck is now about level; maybe 1/2" higher in the back at most.
 

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There has been some mention on this thread about possible difficulties with adjusting camber after lifting the rear with a spring spacer, so I thought I would share my experience. Every truck must be different. After lifting the front 1.75" and the rear 2.25" (actually the rear is now only 1.25" above stock due to sagging springs), the rear camber turned out to be close enough, requiring no adjustment. The front caster required only a minor adjustment. The front and rear toe were both pretty far out, but those are relatively easy adjustments. Print out below.
 

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Kinda new to the forum, and I really appreciate the detail in this thread. I've got a 08 SR5 that I need to lift in order to get 33-34" tires under. But, I also need to firm up the rear end (on my truck). We're typically 1500-2000lbs of gear and butts when we roll out for an overland. My question is, with the stock spring with spacer and an upgraded shock (e.g., 5100s), will that improve my load carrying? I've seen where others have replaced the rear springs and/or added air bags, but wondering if I can get away with just spacers and shocks. I'd think not, but appreciate any feedback.
 

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The stock rear springs are soft to give a smooth ride but that allows the back to squat when you load it up. Lifting with spring spacers and/or upgrading the shocks doesn't alleviate that at all. The spring rate is unchanged.

If you find rear sag under load to be excessive, there are a few options to consider. I doubt that either Timbrens or AirLift or Firestone air bags would be satisfactory for off-road use. As you mentioned, custom coils with a higher spring rate are probably the best option. You might be able to specify a progressive spring that is not too stiff when empty, but provides higher spring rate when loaded. Some details can be found here:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/164497-aescondes-2010-sr5-build/

Another option are Coil SumoSprings, which you insert into the spring to provide a progressive spring rate (increasing with load). See:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/153521-is-your-sequoia-rear-end-sagging/

If you consider going this route, be aware that the Coil SumoSpring model which fits may change after you lift with a spring spacer. That's because at full wheel droop (with the vehicle jacked up so the rear wheels are off the ground), the spring can't expand as much with the spacer present. I used to use CSS-1195, but only CSS-1168 fits now after lifting with Revtek 441R spacers. (The wheel droop is limited by the maximum extended length of the 5100's, and I'm too lazy to disconnect one end of the shocks just to get another inch of droop when I want to use the Coil SumoSprings.) Haven't done any testing yet, but expect the smaller CSS-1168 will not be quite as effective at reducing squat under load.
 

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Thanks MtnClimber!

Aesconde's rig is one of my inspirations.

Just curious what your current suspension upgrade setup is. I picked up that you went with Bilstien 6112s up front, but couldn't find a thread where you provided other details (perhaps I missed it?). Any changes to the rear or additions to the front? Any suggestions from your experience?

I plan to do a CO up front. I've considered Fox or Icons with UCAs as some others on the forum have done, but then for the cost, I'm thinking Bilstien's may do the trick.

Contacted Coil Springs about replacing my rear springs. Will inquire if they can do progressives.
 

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I picked up that you went with Bilstien 6112s up front, but couldn't find a thread where you provided other details (perhaps I missed it?). Any changes to the rear or additions to the front? Any suggestions from your experience?

I plan to do a CO up front. I've considered Fox or Icons with UCAs as some others on the forum have done, but then for the cost, I'm thinking Bilstien's may do the trick.
.
The 6112's are mentioned here (with photos):

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/171689-wat-did-you-do-your-gen2/#post1798537

The 6112s have 4 perch settings, which Bilstein says gives a lift of 0.75, 1.3, 1.9, 2.5". I can say that in my research I found very few people who have used the lower two settings. I was going for minimal lift so used the bottom (0.75") setting. However, I still got 1.75" lift after settling. So be forewarned that Bilstein's stated lift values for the bottom settings seem low. After adding the 6112s I ended up nose high and was forced to use the Revtek coil spacers in the rear to compensate. With my sagging OEM rear springs and 2.25" rear spacer lift, I've restored 0.5 inch positive rake (0.5" higher in the back than the front).

Even with the unexpected amount of front lift I am very pleased with the performance of the 6112s. In my opinion the ride quality improved dramatically. I put the 5100s on the rear first and really didn't notice any difference; any change was hidden by stiffness of the front OEM struts. But the 6112/5100 combination gives a nice, well-controlled, smooth ride at a price point about midway between 5100s and coilovers. And the 6112s are beefy enough that I'm not worried about them collapsing in some remote off-highway location.

Please keep us posted on what you decide for mods and lift. And welcome to the forum!
 

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Thanks for the info all - I am at this cross road now as well and just read this entire thread. I have 5100 front and rear, front at the middle setting, and the front is 1" higher (39" wheel well to ground height front vs 38" rear - with 275/65/20 g2 nittos). I'd like to get to the .5" rake (higher in the rear) as I am always hauling or towing something. However installing the rev tek 1.5" spacer may initially put me 1.1" higher in the rear (which I guess wouldn't be all that bad). I'm going to let my rig settle a week or so and see where it ends up. I can always go up on the front 5100 although I'd like to not have to
I did also just buy the 27035 oemtools compressor and the 1" differential drop as well and will put that drop on this weekend.
 

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GOt my front 5100 on the middle perch and the rear spacers in thanks to this thread. Not having to loosen all the a arm bolts was a great blessing! Using the ratchet strap worked like a charm to line veryrhing back up the the OEM tools spring compressor worked like a charm.
Here is my post lift alignment. It didn't look too far out but he was able to everything perfect!
 

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Installed the ebay 1" spacer today along with 5100 shocks (going for 1.7" lift front, 1.5" rear using the 3:2 rule.) A couple of things of note:


  • The Spring compressor 27035 worked very well. I put it through the hole and then used the "fork" that it comes with as a spacer to keep the shaft from going too high and interfering with the upper perch. It helped a lot.
  • I'm not sure if you guys have hands of steel or what the story is, but even with the rear arm jacked up until it came off of the jackstands it still wouldn't compress the spring enough to get the replacement spacer in. I used a cordless impact to tighten it enough to do the job.
  • The shocks should be installed with the boot side down (logo displaying upright.)
  • I didn't need ratcheting straps. I used the short arm inboard and the longer arm outboard and it was very easy to realign the spring with the spacer in place without any tools
Thanks for the write-up, it helped a ton.
 

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The stock rear springs are soft to give a smooth ride but that allows the back to squat when you load it up. Lifting with spring spacers and/or upgrading the shocks doesn't alleviate that at all. The spring rate is unchanged.

If you find rear sag under load to be excessive, there are a few options to consider. I doubt that either Timbrens or AirLift or Firestone air bags would be satisfactory for off-road use. As you mentioned, custom coils with a higher spring rate are probably the best option. You might be able to specify a progressive spring that is not too stiff when empty, but provides higher spring rate when loaded. Some details can be found here:

Aesconde's 2010 SR5 build

Another option are Coil SumoSprings, which you insert into the spring to provide a progressive spring rate (increasing with load). See:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/sequoia/153521-is-your-sequoia-rear-end-sagging/

If you consider going this route, be aware that the Coil SumoSpring model which fits may change after you lift with a spring spacer. That's because at full wheel droop (with the vehicle jacked up so the rear wheels are off the ground), the spring can't expand as much with the spacer present. I used to use CSS-1195, but only CSS-1168 fits now after lifting with Revtek 441R spacers. (The wheel droop is limited by the maximum extended length of the 5100's, and I'm too lazy to disconnect one end of the shocks just to get another inch of droop when I want to use the Coil SumoSprings.) Haven't done any testing yet, but expect the smaller CSS-1168 will not be quite as effective at reducing squat under load.
Man, you're knowledgeable! I tow a 31' travel trailer with a Hensley Weight distributing hitch. Are you saying that even with a spacer I will still sag down to the same height? I want it to sit up an extra inch or two. Will a 1-1/4 spacer net me any gains with a load on the hitch? Thanks!
 

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I tow a 31' travel trailer with a Hensley Weight distributing hitch. Are you saying that even with a spacer I will still sag down to the same height? I want it to sit up an extra inch or two. Will a 1-1/4 spacer net me any gains with a load on the hitch? Thanks!
What I was trying to say, and didn't communicate well, is that with a spacer and the same loading, the back will squat down by the same amount. With or without the spacer you might sag 1 inch under load. But if the spacer gives 2 inches of lift, the loaded (sagging) position will still be 2 inches higher than it was before without the spacer. Sounds like a spacer would work for you.
 

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Thank you for your reply! Just to reiterate, you all came to the conclusion that 1.25" is the max coil spacer lift lift we should do with no further mods?

Also, I am thinking about using Monroe shocks. I want a softer, less jarring ride. What are your thoughts?
 

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Thank you for your reply! Just to reiterate, you all came to the conclusion that 1.25" is the max coil spacer lift lift we should do with no further mods?
Also, I am thinking about using Monroe shocks. I want a softer, less jarring ride. What are your thoughts?
I think others may have installed somewhat thicker spacers without issues. Maybe even up to 2 inches? I would only attempt that if going with rear shocks with more length, like Bilstein 5100s.
 

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Thank you, Mtn Climber. I just ordered 1.5" spring spacers on ebay. I am thinking they will get me a tad bit above the factory height. I am going to leave the factory shocks in place for now, as I won't be off road. The spacers coupled with my Airlift 1000 airbags, and Hensley Hitch should keep me nice and level under heavy loads. I'll report back with before and after pics.
 

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I have the 1.5" Ebay spacers on my 08. It should give you +/- 2" lift. I did install 5100s. I believe with factory length shocks you will not have an issue with compression, but at full shock extension the shock will or may become the limiting factor. I would not say the 5100s are jarring. I had them on the rear before I installed my lift. They provided a well controlled ride unloaded or with a heavy trailer. My opinion is the 5100s will be better for towing than the Monroe shocks. But you can take that for what it is worth. Good Luck.
 
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