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I tried smacking the motor and removing the brake, neither worked. Ended up replacing the motor, and lo and behold it now works :). It's been 9 years since the motor gave out; glad to finally have a working rear window again.
 

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I purchased an 07 last month, followed the guidance here in thread, and smacking the motor worked. Spent lots of time “unsticking” the window and then making sure the track and the seals were lubricated. Thanks to all!
 

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Before you smack the motor around or remove the clip just unplug the harness and plug it back in. Works most of the time. Those rear windows don’t seal very well and water does make it into the door. The humidity in there corrodes the connection-this is also why tapping the motor works. The brushes have formed some surface contamination in the spot they came to rest.
 

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I have the same problem but a different (maybe) perspective. My 2005 Sequoia rear windows and other features stopped functioning (defrost, wiper, window). I took it apart again, and after reading a post that outlined the 3 bolts holding the motor are T25, I removed them with the intent of testing the motor. My window has never had the spring brake assembly outlined in the bulletin. So I knew I had another problem. I removed the motor and and pushed the button, the motor squirmed with the torque from the motor. Hmmm, motor works but the action is stuck. The grease that was coating everything was not slippery it was STICKY. So I sprayed it with a Teflon bike live and let it sit in. Then I started removing it with a microfiber cloth, I got most of it off. The. I sprayed the travel tracks and rollers I could locate. I removed the other little metal plate on the passenger side and sprayed what I could, this track is turned around so it was a bit more difficult. I did learn that the motor is not what holds the window but the coiled spring is. I was able to manually move the window down with the motor removed. This helped me clean the other areas on the teeth and lubricate it with the Teflon spray. I reinstalled the motor (total PIA), and like that the window worked, I think the grease now glue was causing it to bind.
 

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2004 Sequoia with 352,500+ mi. I have replaced handle twice now, 2nd time using the fishing line weight on the cable to give a little extra pull. I also had to tap the motor a few times to get it working again. Try to at least put the window up/down when I fill up the tank.

The other day I noticed that it didn’t look like the window was quite as far up as normal. Tried to close/open it and nothing happened. When I pulled interior covers off and looked at the back window regulator assembly, both of the support arms had rusted through and broke off at the bolt attachment locations-Passenger side where attached to regulator arm and drivers side on on both ends.

ordered a new Toyota regulator assembly, in addition, you should replace the passenger(RH) rail guide(which includes the roller bearing/bracket(you’ll likely need to replace that bracket which attaches to regulator window support arms and the window at same location where corrosion lead to support arms rusting through. You also need the bracket sub-assembly for drivers(LH) side, but not necessarily the LH guide unless foot Is rusted out.
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The regulator support arms that rusted through around the bolt points meant that I had 6
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bolts that were heavily corrode. Each had a M6-1.00x 16mm hex flange bolt(10mm head) with lock washer and a thin nut on backside of window.

As with the latch replacement, freeing the regulator assembly from the lift back and lowering the window will give you better angle to work on the locations where window/support arms connect. to hold the window in place(it was being supported somewhat by pieces of support arms and regulator arms) I used several strips of masking tape off top of vehicle and attached to window.

There are two electrical connectors on the old/new regulators to disconnect and reconnect. Also a couple of tape points for wiring that you will need to pull the old regulator out to get to the push pins from the back and then reinstall in new assembly(re-tape wiring harnesses), Pull out old regulator and to remove the corroded hex flange bolts, I used a DreMel tool with a cutting wheel to cut off flange bolts from window and then drilled out back side. insert new window regulator, align and there is just enough room behind window to get a normal M6 1.0 flange nut on the back(better future grip) and small 10mm wrench -and then thread the new flange bolt through new regulator support arms/and window guide brackets and window.

Finally, when you complete the attachment of the 6 support arms/guide bracket Bolt/nuts- you lift the new regulator support(& window back up and into the regulator bolt holes. Check to ensure that your Liftback handle release cable is secured by the cable ties so it will not be caught by the regulator arms coming up or down.

Replace body access panels and then interior trim panels and good to go.
 

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Quick question: I've been doing the reset ECU/bang motor for a few years now. The fix sometimes lasts for a day, sometimes a week. I still have the "brake" attached, i.e. the little plate and spring. In reading the technical service bulletin, it states the repair is basically to replace the ECU with a newer version AND replace the motor with a newer version, AND THEN remove the brake thing.

It seems like the majority of people on this thread are ONLY removing the brake/spring thing. Has any had anything negative happen by not replacing the ECU and motor, and JUST removing the spring?
 
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