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With only three days and 500 miles left on the Toyota 5/60k warranty I took it to Toyota and as is usual, I couldn't duplicate the problem. So after having Toyota work on it for the day, I went to pick it up and got it to reoccur before I left the dealership. Toyota checked the code and verified it was a Secondary AIP failure. Good call Black Platinum '10 and Mendonsy. It helps to have a little forum knowledge to keep the BS meter from pegging. Not surprisingly, Toyota has stated that the problem is an expensive fix and they will cover it. Knowledge is power forum members. I just wish Toyota would issue a Technical Service Bulletin and make it right for everyone. Clearly there's a parts quality, or design flaw that needs attention.
Glad you are going to have it fixed!!
Just for the record, Toyota has extended the warranty on the AIP system to 10yr/150k miles on all '07-'10 models. The '11-'13 models will inevitably follow because they have just as many problems.
I just had mine done last week at 82k and 7 years old.
 

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Both times it happened at the house, when I was backing out of my garage and around other cars in my driveway; an act requiring a couple sharp turns in reverse. Before I left the dealership, I turned the wheel a couple times and it tripped. As per Mendonsy's comment, Toyota is doing the right thing by extending the warranty for this to 10 yr. That's why I'll be buying the 2014 after they come out. Can't wait for the new design.
 

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Driving a 3,0l Prado, 2012 model. I experience the same problem since end Oct 2013 - service engine, Trac Off and 4 Low Blinking. When the warning lights are on the vehicle does not switch between H4 and L4. Summer temperatures, above 25 degrees C South African conditions. Dealer replaced egr valve and ECU, problem still recurs at random. Waiting for specialist advice from Toyota SA. Very frustrating.

3 Feb 2014 - AT LAST, we cleaned all the electronic connections around the EGR valve and all other visable plugs under the bonnet were unplugged and sprayed with contact cleaner, we made sure all the connectors are well connected and everything seems to be fine for the last 4 weeks and 4000kms later.

In my view all the replacements were not needed, the electronic cleanup did the thing!!!!
 

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just bought a 2016 toyota sequea not even a week ago and the light just turned on today after 180 miles on the vehicle i really would like to know why this happened? brand new vehicle! first toyota i ever bought too!
 

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Can't believe it... I've got the TRAC OFF & Check Engine lights on with 4LO blinking. Drove it to the dealer yesterday, seemed to drive normal, including on the hi-way. Dealer says there were misfire codes and they suspected and think they found sediment in my fuel tank?! Truck is under warranty, but a several hundred $$ fuel tank cleaning is not covered.
Never heard of such a thing. I fuel up at same place religiously and my other vehicles work fine.
 

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I have a 2011 Tundra 5.7 and this started the other day shortly after cleaning my K&N Air Filter.

Symptoms: Traction Control Light on (and not working), Check Engine Light on, 4lo light blinking.

After about a week of constantly clearing codes with my code reader and spraying MAF Sensor Cleaner on the MAF Sensor and it still continuing to throw P0171 P0174 codes (lean condition) and occasionally a P030x codes (cylinder misfire codes) and acting strange, I went to the dealer to buy a Genuine Toyota Air Filter and the problem instantly went away (also solved the whistling sound while driving).

Doing some research while all of this was happening I have concluded that your Tundra does not like mods or upgrades to the Air Intake system. The Factory box is basically a cold air intake and is built to only use Toyota Air filters
 

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I've been running a K&N in the stock air box for a year now with no issue. Can't imagine why yours worked when the stock filter was reinstalled.
 

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same thing happened today, story below. Been reading all the responses across a couple of threads here. No new gas, no strange or hard turns, running at about half a tank. Ok, my story... and I am super puzzled.

something odd like that happened to me today. after driving around fine, I get back in at a gas station and the 4lo is blinking. I didn't have it on 4x4 anything... haven't for a couple months. no gears would engage. I could put it in park, but it didn't stay put. it just rolled back due to gravity. Put it in drive, and also no reaction from the truck. Though I could physically move the shifter, no gears engaged. I have read other folks who had this problem, and there were many lights blinking. This was just the one. Obviously, tied to put it in and out of 4hi and low, and got no reaction. Could only hold the truck in place by the parking brake.

had it towed to my mechanic, and everything was fine. drove and shifted fine. He checked for codes, and there were none.

truck is behaving completely normal since then (a few hours ago). No recent weather or water or accident or anything. It was very hot out for Denver, about 95. Not sure if that had an impact.

any thoughts?
 

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Hey all,

Basically, this is a final update. It turns out that multiple sources (including the dealer, and my trusted 15 year mechanic) have agreed I need a new transmission. The checked the speed sensor and MAF sensor and flashed some new updates the truck needed… along with fixing the myriad of recalls the truck had (it’s a 2007. It has had a LOT of very minor recalls over the years).

I’m not thrilled, but it’s a first world problem. I called several places, and the total quotes all came in around $3200. Though the prices didn’t vary much, the warranties did. The best I found was a 24k/2 year warranty on parts and labor.

The service writer at the dealership offered to match any offers. I asked if she would match the warranty as well, and they did. I am supposed to have this done in a few days for $5,300 out the door.. and I am going to use the dealership.

The upside? I feel everyone has acted in good faith on this, and I suppose it certainly won’t hurt to have a new tranny… since we tow horses and our nice horse trailer.
The downside? I am not totally sure the transmission is toast, and I can’t say for sure the whole lights on panic won’t happen again
I am copy/pasting this to a few active forums, as there are about 5 who are discussing and having this issue.

If you see nothing after this post from me, assume all is well and everything worked out. If anything flares up, I’ll come back and update.
 

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I went to start my truck yesterday and had this same issue: Engine light on, Trac-Off light on and a blinking 4 Lo light. I limped the truck to the dealership (truck seemed to run fine, but I tried to keep my speed around 45 just to be safe). The service department ran a diagnostic test and the result was a "pattern of misfiring." The technician reset the codes and the truck is back to running, just as it was prior, and all the lights are back to normal. I told them that for the past three days, the truck had started, but seemed to have a rough idle for the first 15-30 seconds or so. The temperatures have been 17, 13, 9 and 8 degrees the last four mornings. The technician deduced the problem to be ethanol fuel. Because ethanol is essentially alcohol and alcohol absorbs water, it pulls water in and when the fuel breaks down, it separates. The reason my truck was misfiring is because there was water getting into the fuel lines, then the injectors and until the engine could begin to heat up, and evaporate the water in the lines, the idle was poor. Because my truck had experienced a series of misfires, the computer began to lose its mind, thus the reason for the fault and all the aforementioned dash lights.
His suggestion was to add some ethanol stabilizer ( I chose to use the Lucas brand) and then fill the tank with non-ethanol fuel, so that it could mix with the preexisting fuel in the tank.
My suggestion is to try to keep your tank as full as possible during the winter months. Because ethanol attracts water and breaks down faster than non-ethanol fuel, thus separating and causing the issue above, keeping your tank full will decrease the amount of room for water to accumulate and therefore, less chance of separation and poor engine performance. Also, during the winter months, try to use non-ethanol fuel every other fill up and use an ethanol additive when not using the ethanol free fuel, thus reducing the chances of this happening to you.
My situation isn't the tell-all/end-all answer to the problem, your issue may be different. You may have an AIP failure, which would return a fault such as: P0428 Secondary Air Injection System Relay A Control Circuit P2445 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Stuck Off Bank 1. This is what I thought my problem was going to be, which I was told is "considered" an emissions issue and may not be covered under warranty. I was also told that this repair could cost upwards of $3k or better. Hopefully this isn't your issue, but if so, there are ways to bypass the system (see previous posts).
Toyota needs to get a handle on this issue! It's obvious that this is a relatively common problem and one that has a tendency to show its ugly face when the temperatures drop. I bought a Toyota for peace of mind, and this experience has caused me to question Toyota's quality control, or at minimum, those individuals entrusted with it.
 

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I have a 2012 Crew Max and the service engine light and the trac off light is on steady and 4 low was blinking ? Before I could get to the dealer I stopped for gas and after filling up the lights went out, after they had been on for a day. Could this maybe be the cause from aloose gas cap ?
Thanks
I have a 2010 crew cab 5.7 4wd. These same lights came on, dealer diagnosed code p2440 secondary air injection system valve stuck open. They fixed it free under an extended warrantee program, also replaced a mouse-chewed knock harness (at my expense $286) while they had the manifold off. Drove home, after 15 miles, lights came on again, plus even more lights. Next day they told me it was code p0415, but said it was a pass side wiring harness, and that it had nothing to do with the other 2 issues. I know nothing about motors, but did some research - learned more about air injection systems than I want to, and p0415 seems to be related to the second. ai solenoid. Dealer submitted pre-authorization with our electrical service plan, but wrote it up as secondary ai injection driver resistor flucuatuing and needs a new housing connector. Claim denied because part is not considered electrical. I don't understand why it wouldn't be repaired free as part of the ai system, or as part of our extended service plan. Toyota said it was only a $15.00 part, but the dealer wants around $250 ($139.00 per hour!!!) Why isn't this part considered electrical or part of the ai?
 

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I just off the phone with Customer Service (800-331-4331) over this same problem.
I have a 2012 Tundra (81K miles) that the dealership (Panama City Toyota) quoted me $2500 to fix. My local garage quoted $800.
Toyota says that if I have it fixed at the dealership...they will review my case for possible, but not probable reimbursement. If I get it fixed at my local shop....they won't even consider reimbursement.
This make my Toyota two vehicles in one...my first and my last. :-(
 

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This just happened to me about an hour ago. Rough idle for first 10 seconds or so and then it smoothed out and ran fine but the check engine light was on, traction control off was on and 4LO was blinking. It was low on gas so I stopped and put half a tank in it but the light stayed on. It ran fine for 30 miles to work where I sit now hoping it gets me home in the morning. Based on the previous replies and not going into limp mode could it be water in the gas? Just unhook the battery for a few minutes?
 

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Same problem with dash lights PLUS...
My 2011 CrewMax Platinum Tundra 60k miles will get stuck in 4th gear when going over 50mph and refuse to upshift to 5th and 6th gear. If I stop the truck on the side of the highway, and restart the truck, then accelerate steadily to 60mph, i get all 6 gears. but if i slow down on the highway (traffic, onramping car etc...) it'll get stuck in 4th gear again and won't shift up until I repeat the process of stopping on side of highway to restart the truck. Seems like a computer problem frankly, bc obviously the tranny is working if i can get into 6th gear by doing a whacky procedure. Is being stuck in 4th gear the same thing as "Limp mode"?

What do i do?
I've read about mice eating knock sensors, Air Induction Pump problem (10 years, 150k miles). I could care less about the lights on dash, i just wanna stop having to stop on highways to "get all 6 gears" (as the Beach Boys would say).
 

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I'm going through this right now with my 2012. It was fine before I drove over 400 miles round trip home. It went into limp mode at lunch. I bought a bypass kit, so I'm not going to drive it until the kits gets installed. Has anyone had success with putting the bypass kit on and fixing this problem? I love my truck and the reason I bought it was to get away from these problems...
 

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Same thing happened to me this weekend. Check engine light on, blinking 4LO and Track Off light on. Took to Dealership, in a few minutes they said I was good to go... Told me I needed to have a "fuel service" performed ( $128 and not covered under warranty). I don't know for sure but i think that was "BS". Don't know what they did but didn't take long. Next time I'm trying the disconnect battery method and see if that works. They also told me the reason the lights came on was water in fuel? anyone ever heard of this?
I just tried this! I changed the spark plugs and the same codes were throwing! It worked!!! Couldn’t believe it! Thanks so much for the info!
 
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