[dawninglawrence]

both my 5.7 Tundra Front and Rear rotor needs to be resurface @ 70k miles now, it cost me $40 each rotor to resurface. Show I just buy NEW ones from EBAY with slotted or drilled for $350? Does the Original toyotal rotor far better than EBAY? please help, can't decide. How about brake pads? should I get original Toyota pads or EBAY ceramic pads for half the cost?

 

[PowerHogger]

Good questions! I would like to know also

 

[socal57chevy]

OEM pads are ceramic. Cheap pads can be noisy. I have had excellent results using Centric Posi Quiet ceramic pads. Not sure which pads you looked at on ebay.
Drilled rotors can crack more easily. Both drilled rotors and slotted rotors are harder on brake pads. You will not likely see any benefits from drilled/slotted rotors unless you do road course racing where heat builds up fast and does not have time to dissipate.
You need to know the thickness of your existing rotors before making a decision on whether to machine them or replace them. If machining them takes you past the discard point, you will want to replace them. Some rotors have the discard thickness stamped in them. I can look up the specs at work tomorrow, if you want.

Posi Quiet rear brake pads...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...g=142&partnum=10513040&a=FR142-10513040-44321
Complete list...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...g=142&partnum=10513040&a=FR142-10513040-44321
The front pads are $40.99.
Avoid the extended wear brake pads. The composition is a bit harder.

Hmmm. Something is wrong, the second link is taking me to the wrong page. Anyway, go to RockAuto and enter your info to find the exact page and brake pad listings.

 

[mendonsy]

There are a LOT of threads about warped rotor problems on the Tundra. A quick title search for "rotors" will get you to most of them. The success rate on turning rotors has been low even when they are within spec.
I would personally not even consider it. I would go with good quality aftermarket parts.

 

[eharri3]

I never bothered with drilled/slotted stuff. Haven't done brake work on this truck yet but on my old one I never resurfaced, when the fronts wore out I got Bendix stuff. When the wears went I got Raybestos I believe. For me, premium aftermarket rotors were MORE than sufficient to get the job done and give me 70-80K before I had to do anything with them again. I will probably just do premium non-drilled or slotted aftermarket rotors for this one too.

 

[08SalsaMax]

Buy new.... once warped -- it'll always warp -- not worth the money to resurface for the few added miles.

 

[Bob Landry]

I have never machined a rotor. If you get wheel shimmy when you hit the brakes, then it's warped. Replace it. Otherwise, I just replace pads. So what if the rotor isn't perfectly smooth. The pad will wear into it pretty quick. Then you're good for another 60-70K miles. The pads are meant to be sacrificial.

 

[WannaRedTundra]

Hahaha I disagree with what appears to be everyone. I do a lot of towing with 4500+ pounds behind me and I know that the trailers Ive pulled were lacking good brakes. I ended up warping my right front rotor (while just driving under normal conditions and braking, I experienced pretty good wheel wobble). I pulled both rotors, swapped out the pads (with new ones from Toyota), had the rotors resurfaced at my local Carquest ($25 for both), reinstalled, and my truck brakes just as good as it did when I first got it. All in all, a couple hours worth of work and around $100 IIRC. Its been 5k miles and no issues.

 

[tundra1569]

Does anybody have experience with after market rotors ? I have the same issue and my choice is Raybestos, Centric, Beck/Arnley or Wagner.

Alternatively maybe it would worth it to get drilled rotors, that cool down faster in mountain driving ?