Toyota Tundra Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello. Love this forum, hopefully it's still relevant today! I just purchased a 2002 sr5 and I'm swapping out the entire 10 speaker JBL system (and 2 amps) for one of my own. I plan on installing a nice setup in my 2002 Toyota Sequoia with amp, component speakers (tweeter/mid-range/woofers) in front door and speakers in rear, crossovers, as well as CB radio with PA speaker and separate antenna. Currently, I have (/had) a 10 speaker JBL premium audio system (factory in 2002), in which a few of the speakers were blown out, and I just wanted to upgrade regardless.

Here are some general questions I have:

1. I removed the factory amp from under the center console. It appears there is a second amp behind the radio, this powers the audio system right? Safe to remove as well?

2. What are all these damn wires?? How do I figure out what to do with all of them! Whoever had this car before me had an fm modulator box in there that I took out, and they had an aftermarket DVD player installed in the middle row and a different one in the back row, so I'm suspecting that is where some of them came from....

3. Can I repurpose one of the old amps to power the CB/PA system so I don't have to run it from my new amp? Or is it a better idea to just run it off the new amp (1500w, 4 channel, 4 ohm)? It looks like the older amps just have wiring harness inputs..

Seemingly an overwhelming task to start, until I get my bearings, so any information helps - thank you in advance.
  • 152119
    152120
    152121
    152122
    152123
    152124
    152125
    152126
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Sorry in advance for the super long reply, there is a ton of information here. Maybe I should do a write up on it at some point.

For background I have done a full swap in my 01 Sequoia, full swap in my brothers 06 tundra(may it rest in peace now) and his new 11 F150. Not my first time around the block.
I don't know what all those wires are. They are probably linked to the added systems from the previous owner like you are thinking, Do you have a multimeter? if not get one. Watch some youtube videos on how to use one, it will help you trace and test wires.

It does come with 2 amps, I don't know what controls what for sure but I think front speakers are the one behind the head unit and the rear is the one below the center console, I just left them be and ran my own wires thru the grommets into the doors. I can't see why they can't be removed.
The amps are tuned and made for those speakers, you might be able to reuse them but they will be underpowered for any good set of speakers. I would replace them for sure. You can probably use the stock wiring if you want to A. go to the work of tracking what goes where and B. don't want to run your own wiring. Your own wiring will be much thicker wire better suited for what you are probably wanting to do. I would advise against using the stock wiring if replacing the amp.
DVD players are roof mounted, correct? Do you want to keep/use them?
Do you want to integrate the CB into your speakers? If so you'll need to figure out how to do that. Also see if you can get the music to turn down while the radio is going? I don't know if that's possible or necessary.
And what is the purpose of the PA speaker? are you trying to play music? have a horn? or be able to announce something from inside?

Here is how I would personally go about this.
I assume your replacing the headunit as part of all this. Right? If you still need one I have one that works great and will sell to you if interested. I used it for maybe 6 months or so and then upgraded to a touchscreen.
Next, I would take out the FM modulators wiring, see if you can get just those wires out of the way for a start. Unless you plan on keeping it but I don't personally see a reason for it.
I would keep the DVD players or at least one, probably would never in a million years use them myself but I would at least wire it in. I don't know what the wiring for that looks like so I couldn't help you there unless you send more pictures of their wiring. How you wire them into your headunit is up to you.

Now all excess wiring is gone decide how far down the rabbit hole you want to go.
What amp and speakers you want?
Are you running all new speaker wiring?
How many speakers do you want in your system?
Are you at any point adding a sub? If so run wires for it now.

For mine I ran a tweeter and a 6.5 up front and in the back the same thing, I did have to add a spot for the rear tweeters and they are far from necessary. If I were you I would run a 6.5 and tweeter up front and a coax speaker in the back. (Coax is a speaker and tweeter in one unit, not seperated)

I would HIGHLY recommend against using the stock tweeter location on the door, they aim at you(NOT what tweeters should do) and at any high volume have a screeching sound. It also limitis you to .75" tweeters(if I remember correctly, though I could be wrong) I'll send pictures of what I did when I am able to. They are on the A-pillar plastics, the other option is on the door on the panel above the window controls. If you don't want to cut up interior pieces I get it, the stock location is ok, I would see if you can aim them away from you though.

I put my 4 channel amp under the passenger seat. I ran 4 gauge thru the stock grommet from the battery, make sure you add a fuse before going into the cab. I have so many cables going in that grommet I had to cut another hole and add another grommet. The other option is to run it under the car through the floor. Peices to waterproof and protect the cable through the floor are pretty cheap and very easy to install.
All the wires from the headunit run to under the passenger seat, then to the doors.Ground is directly to the body, I used the floor under the seat mount.


I'll post pictures of my setup when I can, what other questions do you have?


Not related to the speakers.
1. Be very careful with the radio trim, there are 4 yellow clips on the back that have a tendency to break, when I bought mine it had been a emergency vehicle before and the radio trim had been ripped off so many times they were all gone. New one is $100+ on ebay. It's just a plastic covers over all the controls for the heating, I looked for OEM parts and couldn't find it anywhere, not even the dealer could.
2. While you have everything apart now would be a good time to do the center diff lock mod if yours is a 4wd model. If you want me to find the link for that article let me know.
3. The lack of sequoia support really makes stuff hard to find and the forums aren't as populated as other forums and therefore aren't as moderated and finding stuff can be difficult sometimes and things that I would think should be stickied aren't. I'm not hating on the forums but it is something that took me a bit to find out. It does make the Sequoia community unique as most things are pretty custom.
4. I'll save you hours of research and frustration now. When you (and you will) have problems with the VSC you'll start scouring forums for answers. The yaw rate sensor fixed mine for 3 months and then stopped working again. Recalibrating did not help me. My dealer charged me $150 to tell me that it is going to be $3400 to replace the abs/traction control module(they are one unit) and they might need to replace the steering angle sensor for another $900. Obvioulsly I said hard pass. Toyota is the only one with the parts and computer to replace them as well. Unplug the sensor on your master cylinder for your brakes and it will turn off your VSC system entirely. Normal traction kind of works sometimes and ABS does still work. Some people cut the wire and add a switch into the cabin. You might want to do a little more reading on the VCS systems. Just so you know how silly the system was designed, a bad O2 sensor can set it off. How it relates? No idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks so much for taking the time to write out such a long and helpful post, bendowands! Just to follow up on some of your questions, the previous owner installed DVD screens in the back of the front seats (not a very clean install unfortunately, but at least they work). There's a DVD player under the passenger seat, which is getting removed because that's where I'm putting the new amp. I ultimately want to control the DVD screens from the new HU I'm going to purchase.

I've got the coaxial antenna and CB radio installed for CB/PA system, I just need to install the amp to connect to the CB and the speaker under the hood (somewhere...). I'm installing it for a range of things, scanning trucker talk for cops in the area (because, why not?), to communicate if necessary, to be able to beam music out of the speaker and to talk through the PA if I want.. It's basically just a cool toy.

Thanks for the other tips also, I will definitely keep them in mind. I noticed that whoever had the car before me already broke one of those yellow clips off on the radio panel after I removed it :( but it's alright. I also noticed they completely broke off the plastic tabs that anchor into the frame when you screw in the screw to secure the door sills, so I'm debating either buying new ones or figuring out how to fix the plastic tabs that broke off?

As far as what I've done so far... I've ran 3 sets of new 16ga speaker wire through the driver door to the kick panel, I have a 3 way crossover I'm going to install there (one on both sides) as I'm planning on keeping the 3 speaker per door set up. I found a cool little 2.5" mid-range I'm going to try to work into the setup to see what happens.

I had already installed the tweeter into the factory location, but I have a capacitor coming in the mail to hook up to it and with the crossover, I'm hoping it will function well enough in that spot. I did make my own bracket and install the speakers in the driver door, but unfortunately it's too thick and I can't fasten the door panel at the bottom, so it's back to the drawing board there.

I've installed the new coaxial door speakers in the rear already, but I've decided to go back and run new wiring, so I still have all that to do...

I just finished installing the power cable through an existing grommet into the driver's side, around to the passenger side, through the passenger door sill and under the passenger seat, which is where the amp will live.

This weekend, I'm hoping to tackle getting the other 3 sets of speaker wire through the passenger door into the other kick panel, and then I'll install both crossovers, and then remove the old DVD player and then install the amplifier and ground it.

Beyond that, I have a hefty to do list:
  • Connect CB/PA system to amp
  • Install PA horn, run wire to interior, connect to amp
  • Go back to rear doors and run new speaker wire to rear speakers
  • Locate existing cables for DVD screens and get them ready to plug into new receiver
  • Install a bypass switch for the power antenna so I can pick and choose when it goes up.
  • Remove the old front JBL amplifier
  • Buy a HU and back up camera and install both
  • Run whatever other wire I need to connect everything - no idea on this step yet. I've ordered several harnesses so I can try and utilize the existing stereo harness. We'll see what happens with them
  • Install a USB plug into one of knockouts in the center console
  • Install capacitors in tweeters
  • Button up everything
  • Clean car
  • Voila! (?)
I've attached some items of usefulness, including the diagram of what I'm planning in my Sequoia. Everything else are just resources I've used along the way. Thanks again, I think I beat you in post length this time.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Here are some more useful-to-me-maybe-not-to-you photos. Pictures of my actual install to come...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ok, so update time (with pictures!)...

Firstly, I attached some pics of the CB radio (now fully functioning - sans PA) and the antenna.

Also attached a picture of the power cord for the amp routed through the passenger door sill.

Next, I removed the DVD player from under the passenger seat to reveal an absolute rat's nest of cords and cables. There are some pics attached of what was under there, what I removed, and what I left behind (to be dealt with another day).

I also investigated the cords coming from the stereo. It looks like the ones that were spliced into to the factory din are for ground, hot and ? (Maybe rem?) Any information you can give me on those?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Since the last post, I've cleaned up the wiring even further (and then added several more). I've mounted the 200w PA horn under the hood and ran the wiring into the cabin and connected it to the amp. I used a 3.5mm aux stereo to rca male y splitter to connect the CB radio to the amp. I connected the power and ground to the amp, and the rem wire going from a BHA8113 harness (connected to the factory harness) to the amp as well. I connected a Scosche MDAB micro antenna adaptor to the smaller of the two antenna plugs, and I'm waiting for Metra 40-UV3 male to two female antenna y adapter so I can plug both antennas into one plug in my new stereo.

Pictures and more updates to come tomorrow as I plug in the fuse and turn on the PA for a system check.... Wish me luck.

By the way, anyone connect their rear coaxials to the head unit, leaving space on the amplifier to connect front speakers and other things? I'm considering doing this, because I essentially have 9 speakers to connect to a 4 channel amp otherwise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Sorry it took me a while to get back to you.

You've got the PA/CB wiring figured out which is where I can't help that much as I've never done one, and I'm not sure about controlling the DVD player, depends on what DVD player it is and what headunit you get. But I'm assuming you already have that planned out.

For the door sills, my brothers 06 tundra did the same thing. Mine as well, I don't think its worth buying new ones, might try getting access from under(if possible) and just bolting or you can use zip ties and the screw to push the heads apart but it is a pain with only some luck, mine are just pushed in place and they don't give me trouble.

I made my own speaker mounts as well, I cut them out of mdf, I don't remember the thickness I went with though. No problems installing my door panels.

According to the diagram you posted, the blue/yellow wire is hot, it looks white in the picture but I think it's the grey one thats tapped, right? that would be ignition. Not sure about the brown one.

With the rear speakers, they are doing one thing. Fill. They don't have to sound amazing or even go very loud although they shouldn't be quite. They just need to fill the cabin behind you mainly. The thing you lose by running them off the headunit is being able to change your gain on your amp. What I mean by that is most of my songs play at 34(out of 40) in volume, then quiter songs can play closer to 40. I have the amps set to play that way, if you run the speakers off the headunit you could adjust the front/rear difference on the headunit though imo that's not ideal. I would personally recommend using an amp, thats just me though. I guess it really comes down to the amp. What kind of amp are you running?/Does it have enough power to run 3 speakers(for your fronts) on one channel without underpowering them?

I'll go take picture with my phone and post them in a few minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
So here is what I was talking about with the door wiring. It's not ideal but it works.
152252


Here's the tweeters
152253

It pushes the plastic out a bit but it doesn't bother me.
152254

I put the amp under the seat, it is easy to pull out and adjust anything if need be. Take heat shrink and write what wire goes to what door on it. If you look closely you can see the red heatshrink on the white speaker wires.
152255

152256


Here's some of my wiring, I like your placement for your fuseholder. I've tried to keep it pretty neat, that's a positive distribution block so not everything is on the battery. And there are more relays to the left.
152257

152258

Too many damn cables so I had to add a second grommet. That was the best place we could find and I could drill it with a hole saw. The drill fit just perfect between all the vacuum hoses.
152259

Here's what I did the second time running 0 gauge, it's run through the fuse, under the car along the frame and up through a hole. Finding the hole and getting is setup was a pain and there isn't much extra space.
152260

And my door sills are fine even missing most of the plastic to hold them in.
152261
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top