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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am starting to take apart the interior on my 2010 beast so I can install about $700 of second skin audio sound dampening products. I will be covering the interior with damplifier (Thinner material to cut down on the weight added to the vehicle), then topping that off with their luxury liner pro on the floors and in the doors. The top will get damplifier followed by their heat wave pro. While the interior is apart, I plan on installing a Coastal Tech nav lockpick2. I will be posting photos here of my progress. I plan on starting with the products in about a week to 10 days.

I had a question for the toyota experts on here which I hope you can help me with. If I start prepping the interior and remove the battery cable, then remove say the third row seat entirely, can I hook up the battery and drive the car? Or will the vehicle think it's in an accident and spit out the airbags? I am super paranoid about triggering the airbags on the car. Any help would be very much appreciated.
 

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I've been contemplating this on and off for the past couple years. The amount of work just seems so daunting. Do you plan on ripping out the foam that Toyota has on the floors or just covering over it? In any case, subbed for tips and pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've been contemplating this on and off for the past couple years. The amount of work just seems so daunting. Do you plan on ripping out the foam that Toyota has on the floors or just covering over it? In any case, subbed for tips and pics.
It does seem like a lot of work, but we do 1000 mile trips and I just want something that is dead silent. I know the windows will always be loud, but right now I'll just be happy getting rid of the road noise and exhaust drone.

I did peek up front and see some of the foam that is already in there, but I haven't gotten it completely gutted. I started in the back and got just short of ripping out the third row. Working my way forward. With the damplifier and the luxury liner I am adding about 1/4". I'll probably just go over most areas and cut out the bolt holes. I already found in the back there is a lot of noise that comes from the rear wheel wells.
 

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It does seem like a lot of work, but we do 1000 mile trips and I just want something that is dead silent. I know the windows will always be loud, but right now I'll just be happy getting rid of the road noise and exhaust drone.

I did peek up front and see some of the foam that is already in there, but I haven't gotten it completely gutted. I started in the back and got just short of ripping out the third row. Working my way forward. With the damplifier and the luxury liner I am adding about 1/4". I'll probably just go over most areas and cut out the bolt holes. I already found in the back there is a lot of noise that comes from the rear wheel wells.
This may sound dumb, but you might consider some noise reducing ear buds or ear plugs. I had an S2000 that is much noisier. When I drove it long distances, I used ear plugs. Just don't go too far in attenuation for safety sake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This may sound dumb, but you might consider some noise reducing ear buds or ear plugs. I had an S2000 that is much noisier. When I drove it long distances, I used ear plugs. Just don't go too far in attenuation for safety sake.
After being around some friends with serious car audio setups, I am completely sold on proper CLD for large metal panels. I just like the way it makes the car "feel" more solid. Also I don't want to inhibit conversation in the car.

I will try to update each step here in this thread with the time it took me to do it. I plan on doing it in five major stages so I don't have the car out of service for too long.

1) Gut the rear and third row seat. Prep side rear panels. (1Day, car drivable)
2) Remove front & second row seats. Headliner and rear panels. Lay down CLD. (1 Day, car undrivable overnight)
3) Lay down LLP and HWP, re-assemble front of vehicle (1 Day, car drivable at end of day)
4) Re-assemble rear of vehicle (1 Day, car drivable)
5) Remove door panels, CLD, LLP and re-assemble (1 Day, car drivable)

I began by disconnecting the battery. To my shock I could not believe how corroded the terminal was. The car is only 2 years old and it looks like there is some electrolysis occuring between the metals on the negative terminal. Not good. Anyway, I guess I should look under the hood more often. Check yours.

Total time for step 1: ~5 hours Reconnecting the battery does not trigger airbags with the seat and center console removed. :tu:

DSCF6313.JPG DSCF6314.JPG DSCF6315.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tore into the car over the weekend.

Total time for step 2: ~ 8 hours
This included removing the rest of the interior, dropping the headliner, installing CLD layer and heatwave pro in the headliner, then re-installing the headliner.

DSCF6364.JPG DSCF6365.JPG DSCF6366.JPG DSCF6367.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Total time for step 3: ~8 hours

This included laying down CLD on floorpan, measuring and cutting out LLP around wheel wells, on floorpan, etc. Then reassembling the entire vehicle minus the third row. I also managed to phish a piece of overkill into the B-pillars. You can see in the photos the CLD layer they use from the factory. It's like some resin that hardens super hard. I just went over about 80% of it with Damplifier.
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On the wheelwells I used aluminum tape on the seams. If you remove the subwoofer and the suspension controller you can actually reach into the wheel well and lay down on the outer quarter panel skin. I used some 3M high performance contact adhesive for this. Knocking on the rear panel is rock solid now. :cool:
 

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Lots of work but it'll pay off in the end. I did this to my tundra and it's dead quiet now. I have aftermarket exhaust and I don't even here it anymore with windows up. However I now hear engine noise coming through the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Lots of work but it'll pay off in the end. I did this to my tundra and it's dead quiet now. I have aftermarket exhaust and I don't even here it anymore with windows up. However I now hear engine noise coming through the firewall.
LOL, that's funny you mentioned that because the other day my wife was like "why is the engine so loud?" "I can hear a lot of wind noise too." I told her it's because the rest of the car is quieter now.

I notice a much bigger difference in the roof than I do the floor. I don't know if HWP is just a better product or what. It's certainly cheaper. I think there is a lot of road noise coming from the doors. That's my next area to attack this weekend.

I wish I could hit that firewall. Even looking in the engine compartment it's all bare thin metal. I may try some CLD on the engine side to reduce vibration or even roll on some spectrum.
 

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I wish I could hit that firewall. Even looking in the engine compartment it's all bare thin metal. I may try some CLD on the engine side to reduce vibration or even roll on some spectrum.
Do you think the engine heat will melt the CLD if you stick them on there? Also, spectrum is water-based...Can it be used it on the outside?

Also, do you think the CLD tiles are better for noise blocking on the roof and Heat Wave Pro is just for cutting down the heat? According to Sound Dampener Showdown, they said to use only 25% of the CLD...anymore is a waste of money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Do you think the engine heat will melt the CLD if you stick them on there? Also, spectrum is water-based...Can it be used it on the outside?

Also, do you think the CLD tiles are better for noise blocking on the roof and Heat Wave Pro is just for cutting down the heat? According to Sound Dampener Showdown, they said to use only 25% of the CLD...anymore is a waste of money.
I don't think the heat in the engine compartment is enough to melt the butyl layer so that it completely falls off. On youtube a lot of people have done "oven" tests with the stuff up to 500 degrees and they still need to take pliers to strip it off.

Spectrum I don't know too much about. I didn't realize it was water based. This would be a question for SSA. I think it's marketed as a CLD material, not a sound deadener, so you'd need a few coats to get any noise deadening out of it, if any. I think they also sell a two part solvent based coating meant for wheel wells.

From my reading on HWP, it does have SOME sound dampening properties. I actually used more Damplifier on the floor than I did on the roof, but the roof sounds like it had a bigger effect. I think this is reflective more of just where the noise was coming from than the actual effectiveness of the products. I am tall so my head is right at the roof. I can tell now that it's insulated and packed with deadening.

I know about the 25% rule, and I am sure there are scientific numbers to back it up. However I simply go by the knock rule. If you knock the panel and it sounds "tinny" keep on rolling!. There were a few spots in the rear of the sequoia (which already had factory CLD layer mind you.) but they would still sound like they weren't constrained enough. I don't know if it's the size of the panels or what, but some areas took up to 70-80% to get that "thud" sound out of the panel.

As for noise deadening on the firewall vs. CLD, I was thinking CLD because it would stay on and be easier to apply. It probably would not deaden much sound, but something is better than nothing. If anything it would reduce vibration in the panels. That contact cement I use would probably hold some LLP on there, but I don't know the heat tolerance of that product.
 

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Well I popped the hood and it looks like it'd be tough to lay anything on the firewall on the outside from the top. May be easier from the bottom but I doubt it. Let me know if you come up with anything.

Interestingly, I don't hear much wind noise from the roof. I think it's bc I have the supercharger (which uses TRD intake) which makes a lot more noise than stock and it overwhelmed the wind noise. Not so sure what I can do about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Interestingly, I don't hear much wind noise from the roof. I think it's bc I have the supercharger (which uses TRD intake) which makes a lot more noise than stock and it overwhelmed the wind noise. Not so sure what I can do about that.
You have the SC!! Why would you want to quiet that??? I have the weathertech side window visors and I think that is giving me the wind noise. I know the side mirrors were loud by themselves, but seemed to get worse with the weathertechs on there.

I need to get a dark tint job so I can ditch the visors. They really help cut the sun angle on long trips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Haven't had the chance to get in there to really take a look. I am planning to do the doors next. I'd like to use LLP on the rear hatch, but realized the extra weight might be an issue for the automatic door opener. I decided to use overkill pro instead, perhaps doubling it up if I can. I have a tutorial for the door skin removal, but do you know of one for the rear hatch?
 

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I have the Tundra, but Sequoia so I don't have the rear hatch. Most of these panels are clips on with may be a few hidden screws so can't be that difficult. You should have no issue with getting it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I suppose after what I have already been through it should be relatively straightforward! The headliner was a major PITA and had a lot more wires in there than the Tundra. Thinking about the engine noise, have you considered the thermal block insulation from SSA for the underside of the hood? I can't believe there isn't even a modest insulating pad under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got a good look in the engine compartment and there's just no way to get in there without pulling the motor. I did notice there is some insulation/sound deadener on the firewall, not sure if your Tundra has it. It doesn't seem to do much.
 
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