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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone!

Its been a long time since I have been on, couldn't log into my old account (Marauder)

Anyways....my 2006 Access cab SR5 with the 4.7 is having its FIRST issue since I bought it brand new in Jan of 2007. Not bad to go 167,000 miles with no mechanical issues.

Ok....so a couple weeks ago I noticed a slow cranking of the starter. It would slowly start taking a little longer to start. It would still fire and run.
About a week and a half later after I started it the starter would keep spinning after the engine fired up.

So I park it and drive my back up car.

I replaced the starter relay....no difference.

Ok....so I pick up a new starter and ignition switch. After talking to parts guy he thinks with the power draw its probably the starter.
Changed the starter.....what a $^&%....OK who puts it under the intake manifold.....
I changed that out, and still don't fix the problem.
Got gas and truck wont start....battery dead, only 100 cranking amps.

So new battery.

Now I change the ignition switch which I have seen cause starter issues.....

Still the starter spins after the engine fires.

So anyone have ideas on why my starter keeps spinning after it starts?

I guess I should look thru wiring diagrams and the service manual next.
Unless its just a bad ECU?
I am guessing its not registering all the time that the engine fired up?

BTW....its not doing it all the time, about half the time it'll do it and the starter will stop about 30 seconds of running.

Thanks
 

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No one with ideas?

I was looking at wiring diagrams. To me it seems like the ecu is telling the starter to keep going, like it didn’t see the start.

it only happens now when it’s cold. If the engine had warmed up and sits only a short while, like two hours or less, it starts normal and doesn’t keep running the starter the full 40 seconds.
 

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it only happens now when it’s cold. If the engine had warmed up and sits only a short while, like two hours or less, it starts normal and doesn’t keep running the starter the full 40 seconds.
The other info was important but that comment struck me. We have a thread ongoing at Tundras.com with pretty much the same symtoms. Might not lead anywhere but it's worth a shot following.

Altered link so this forum would not hold it up since it considers my first post as spam with a link !

httpz://www.tundras.com/threads/2012-toyota-tundra-starter-problems.34259/
 

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Have you done a system charging test? Some auto parts store can test the battery, alternator and starter all on the vehicle. Did you test your old starter once it was off? The one you replaced it with, was it new or a reman?

So if I am understanding you correctly, the starter keeps going 30 seconds after the engine is already running?
 

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Starter is actually energized and turning the flywheel during that malfunction?
Does it keep doing it's spinning trick when you turn the key to the off position?

I presume it's an automatic trans so there's yet another possible culprit, the neutral safety switch.
 

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Guessing he got it figured out. Only had 2 posts in this one thread. I would start at the starter relay which is the middle point of the system. Unplug it and if it keeps turning it is the starter solenoid. Test the relay and if it is closed across the relay without 12V applied to the coil its a bad relay. If the relay test open without 12V applied to the coil and opens properly when 12V is removed from the coil the problem is further up the ignition system towards the computer or the ignition switch. Just keep following it up the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry been so busy I haven't been back on here.

I have a new battery and it was tested.

My truck still has the issue, cold starts the starter keeps running for 30 seconds after the engine starts. It is NOT engaged on the flywheel, but starter still spins.

Revving the engine stops the starter but after a few seconds starts spinning again. Rev the engine again and it stops spinning.....it'll start spinning again after a few seconds or until the 30 seconds is over.

I have a NEW starter relay in it and it still does the same thing with either new or old relay.

I've looked at the circuit diagrams and it looks like it traces back to the ECU. I might just get another ECU and swap in and see if the problem goes away.
 

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Sooooo...... this sounds way more like your secondary air injection pump is going bad. It runs for about 30 seconds on a cold start (engine being off for at least 7 hrs) and will stop when the RPMS are high enough. Two easy ways to help confirm.
1)disconnect the pump at the air injection control driver. You will get a P2445 code from this but if the noise does not happen on your next cold start that is because the pump isn't powered at your cold start.
2) pull your starter relay wire within the time the noise is happening and if it keeps going it isn't the starter unless your solenoid is stuck... but you would know if your starter was actually still engaged...bad noise so just stick to #1
Confirm this and give us a call for a bypass kit solution for the secondary air injection system before you pump motor burns out and you need more than just the standard kit.
Toll Free 844-307-7671 or visit our website Hewitt-Tech.com
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ah, ok, so now I need to find that connector. I should just go smog my truck first since its due in a month and then rip all that secondary air injection out! haha
 

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Ah nice, that looks likes its right behind the fuse/relay box?
I though I had already described its location but I guess not. Yes, it is behind the fusebox and in front of your brake master cylinder/booster on the driver side inner fender.
 

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Yes, I know i've been very fortunate! Once I finish my remodel project at home I can put some TLC into my Tundra. I am surprised that the air injection is that loud, it for sure sounds like a starter spinning. Ugh....spent too much time on racing engines and don't enough of this emissions systems crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I plugged the connector and started it first thing in the morning and everything is quiet.
So I guess i have a faulty air injection system.
It thru a CEL but I didn't pull the code yet.
 
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