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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2001 Tundra 4x4, with only 86,000 miles on the odometer, has a sterring wheel shake above 60 mph. I noticed it when I got new tires, which are Michelins. I installed new Steering Rack bushings, which only made the vibration tighter. I had the shop re-balance the tires twice and check for problems, even turning the tires 180 degrees on the rims. The shake has not changed. I even had the front end alignment checked and the front end checked for other worn or loose parts. When I was examining the front end, I did notice there is some small movement (1/4 to1/2 inch?) in my steering rack when I yank the wheels back and forth from side to side. The movement is coming from the rack and not the ball joints, etc. Is this normal or not for these trucks? I never had any reason to yank on them before this, so I don't know if it's acceptable. Can this be the cause of my problems? HELP!!! Thanks.
 

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My 2001 Tundra 4x4, with only 86,000 miles on the odometer, has a sterring wheel shake above 60 mph. I noticed it when I got new tires, which are Michelins. I installed new Steering Rack bushings, which only made the vibration tighter. I had the shop re-balance the tires twice and check for problems, even turning the tires 180 degrees on the rims. The shake has not changed. I even had the front end alignment checked and the front end checked for other worn or loose parts. When I was examining the front end, I did notice there is some small movement (1/4 to1/2 inch?) in my steering rack when I yank the wheels back and forth from side to side. The movement is coming from the rack and not the ball joints, etc. Is this normal or not for these trucks? I never had any reason to yank on them before this, so I don't know if it's acceptable. Can this be the cause of my problems? HELP!!! Thanks.
Have you swapped the tires front to rear? If the problem is still there then it's not the tires. Where do you feel the vibration?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any more than 1/4" play in the steering rack sounds excessive. No dried mud in the brake rotor vents?
I'd have it on jackstands and idling in 4hi having a look at all the spinning bits. But i aint got no sense.
The main reason I'm posting this, is me and several others have run out of stuff to look at. I was hoping somebody on here has had a similar mystery problem. I checked the steering tonight again, with the truck on the ground, and it seems to turn the wheels almost right with the steering wheel movement with little slop in the steering, so now I'm doubting the potential rack problem. I can't think it would be that sensitive to such a small amount of play.
 

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Jack up the front end (put it on jack stands just to be safe) and with the tires off the floor give the wheels a shake with your hands both in the 12/6 o'clock and 3/9 o'clock positions. You should be able to feel where the slack is. I am surprised that your tire shop didn't try this.
If you can feel or hear the slack have someone else wobble the wheel and you can carefully crawl under to try and track it down both visually and by listening closely. My guess is a weak steering unit.
Let us know... Chap
 

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It may be out of balance wheel/tire assemble. Assuming that you have wheels that are Toyota OEM or aftermarket that use the same type of lug nuts, I suggest that you take your vehicle to the dealer and have the dealer balance with the Haweka balancing adapter. The cost is about $50.00
Check to see if they have purchased the Toyota required balancing machine adapter that include a collet (rather than a cone) that goes on the machine first, then the wheel, then the Haweka unit that has finger like studs that fit exactly into the wheel lug nut openings so the wheel assembly is aligned perfecting on the balance machine the same as it will be installed on the truck. The lug nuts center the wheel. If the Haweka system that the dealer is required ot have as a factory service part does not work with your wheels and lug nut configuration, find a tire store with Hunter Precision balance adapters, similar in function. The Toyota wheels have a large hole in the center, and are lug centric, since almost all tire dealer (Discount Tire for example) that just use a cone and spin plate to mount wheel for balance will not get you a good balance. . I have found that without using the special adapter at Toyota my 2Gen Tundra never gets a good balance, however, with the use of the adapters, I get a glass smooth, ride, with my OEM speck tires. Use of the Haweka system also prevents cupping and you don't have to re balance as often, in fact I never do. Note, if you find a dealer that want's to use a flat plate adapter to bolt to the wheel on the inside of the rim, and then use lug nuts on the lug nut side, that is old tech, and it did not work for me, maybe because the tire dealer's machine spindle was worn, or the adapter was worn out. If the link below does not work, just Goggle Haweka. The Haweka site has a great amount of info about using the special adapter, as does the Hunter balancing systems site.

 

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Just had this problem, went from Michelin LTX MS2 tires (no longer made) with a smooth ride to Michelin LTX A/T tires. Drive home seemed a little bouncy, steering wheel so-so. Had the wheels aligned at a different shop where they found worn steering rack bushings which were replaced with Moog parts.

Limited testing after that as I don’t drive the truck very often, mostly as a tow vehicle for our 24‘ trailer. Upon leaving for a 300 mile trip hitched to the trailer with the WDH system the truck was un-drivable, steering wheel shaking rapidly. I feel this was due to the affect of the WDH loading the truck front end more than normal.

Retuned immediately to the alignment shop (which I thought was the problem) where they found 3 of the 4 tires were out of round, beyond the limits of the Hunter Road Force Elite balance machine.
He rebalanced the tires better and moved the worst 2 to the rear, lowered the front pressures a bit, and the difference was 80% better, good enough to make our trip.

Upon returning to the tire store they verified the out of round tires but instead of replacing the 3 bad ones (which on the phone they said they would, after verification) they found the match points of wheels to tires and rotated the tires on the wheels. Most did not get close to the machine’s predicted satisfactory balance results, but were better. Feels a little better but the true test will be our next trailer trip. They wanted to CHARGE me:mad: for fixing what they should have caught in the first place, I put up a loud protest that everyone inside the store heard so they waived the fee.

I won’t be going back to that tire store, will be using the alignment shop where I was taken care of - very well!
 

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I would be going back to give them the opportunity to replace the defective tires before I contacted the Transportation Safety Board and Comsumer Affairs. This is just wrong. Chap
 

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My 2001 Tundra 4x4, with only 86,000 miles on the odometer, has a sterring wheel shake above 60 mph. I noticed it when I got new tires, which are Michelins. I installed new Steering Rack bushings, which only made the vibration tighter. I had the shop re-balance the tires twice and check for problems, even turning the tires 180 degrees on the rims. The shake has not changed. I even had the front end alignment checked and the front end checked for other worn or loose parts. When I was examining the front end, I did notice there is some small movement (1/4 to1/2 inch?) in my steering rack when I yank the wheels back and forth from side to side. The movement is coming from the rack and not the ball joints, etc. Is this normal or not for these trucks? I never had any reason to yank on them before this, so I don't know if it's acceptable. Can this be the cause of my problems? HELP!!! Thanks.
I get a wobble between 47 and 53 mph, the steering wheel shakes enough that you can see & feel the wobble.

2nd new drive shaft installed, 4 new shocks, new passenger side steering rack bushing, 4 new tires, load force balance wheels & tires, new end links and bushings on the front anti-roll bar, the rear anti-roll bar has been re-centered because it had shifted to one side were it was in contact with a shock perch... all of this and I am still getting a wobble!

It feels like the entire truck is gently bouncing and shaking at certain speeds, but mainly between 47 and 53 in any gear. Other than that, the truck drives, steers, and brakes perfectly fine.

What am I missing here?
 
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