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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all, I recently replaced my power antenna in my 04 Sequoia and know that this is an issue for most, if not all, first Gen Sequoias and Tundras, so I wanted to post a step by step of how I went about replacing mine with a stubby flexible fixed antenna. Hopefully this will help someone else here running into issues with their antenna not going up and down and dealing with a broken mast.

As you know, there is not an easy fix, so this is a DIY. Total cost was $23.00 and about an hour of time once everything was bought.

First, I bought a Metra generic top mount replacement rubber antenna from Autozone. Cost $15.00. I also bought a 3 ft. extention for the cable since the antenna cable was not long enough to reach the back of the radio. Also Metra brand at Autozone, cost $4.00.
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Next I pulled off the front passenger tire for easier access to the power antenna motor. And just take the dang tire off, you will regret it if you don't. Once removed you will need to pull out the plastic grommets that hold the splash shield in place. You only have to remove these on the inside of the splash shield and not the screws on the fender side. I used needle nosed plyers that are angled/bent and pryed them out.

Next bend the splash shield back... don't worry about breaking it, it's tough. Bend it back enough where you can see the bracket that holds the bottom of the power antenna. Remove the one 10mm screw that hold it in place.

Next unscrew the silver retainer on the top of the antenna bezel. My antenna was broken off so I was able to use the back side of a utility knife in the slots to unscrew. Just don't scratch paint! It helps if once that retainer is loose to hold the bottom of the power antenna with your right hand and unscrew the retainer with your left... or another option is to reverse the order of this: remove retainer first, unscrew the 10mm bolt 2nd. Either way, the motor will be free now. Cut the antenna wire and power wires at the base of the antenna motor. You will not use these and will need to use a new antenna wire on the new antenna and extender.
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Next, pull the motor out through the fender and splash shield. You will reuse the top part of the motor with bezel and decorative exterior part. Using a hack saw, cut the motor off of the top part of the antenna. It is only aluminum so should cut very easily. Pull out the plastic insert once cut through. You should be left with the top bezel, decorative piece and retaining nut, and inside part of the antenna.
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I used a round file and took off the burrs on the inside of the aluminum antenna "sheath" and then flat filed it down to remove any burrs from the outside.

Next, you will need to buy an extension for the antenna screw and coupler nut. These cost me just over $3.00 at True Value. Most True Values have a bolt section in theor stores where you can find nearly anything and buy individual pieces. Size of the bolt is M6 100 (6mm diameter 100mm length). The coupler size is M6 1.00 (6mm diameter 10mm length). This extension will go through the top part of the bezel that you just cut off and connect the base of the new antenna with the rubber top antenna. See the photo. Once assembled, the rubber antenna will hold it all in place.
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Now you are ready to put the bezel and old antenna piece back in place. The silver retaining nut will hold it all in place on the fender. After tightened, feed the new antenna base through the bottom of the bezel with the extension nut and bolt attached. Finger tighten the rubber antenna to the extension bolt. On mine, there was a little bit of play and movement up and down about 1/2". But with the base of the antenna being rubber I just pressed it down into the bezel and it fits snug. If you want a perfect fit with no wiggle room, you could cut a little off of the extension bolt if desired, but this was too much work for me without much result.
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Next, pull out the grommet where the old antenna wires go into the fender/firewall and into the cab. I snipped the old wires short and later pulled out the old antenna wire from behind the stereo. You don't have to do this, but I don't like to leave a mess! I had to cut the end of the grommet off to fit the tip of the new antenna plug through it.

Fish the wire into the hole. The plug should be visible between the kick panel on the passenger side and the bottom of the glove box.
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Now you are ready to attach the extension to the cable and hide it up inside the dash feeding it to the back of the stereo (remove stereo first). The finished product looks factory, and I will never have a broken antenna again as well as no more annoying motor sound!
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If you have specific questions let me know!
 

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nice job. wish i read this a month ago. i went through all the trouble of replacing my broken mast. had to take the motor out and remove the broken mast drive strip. next time i'm replacing with something like this. do you take yours through car washes with brushes without problem?
 

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nice job. wish i read this a month ago. i went through all the trouble of replacing my broken mast. had to take the motor out and remove the broken mast drive strip. next time i'm replacing with something like this. do you take yours through car washes with brushes without problem?
This is definitely the way to go. I replaced mine with a cheap amazon OEM style antenna and it lasted less than a year. Now, I've got a rubber one sitting in a package, waiting to be installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I forgot to mention that the antenna bolt extension and coupler nut is stainless steel and metric. Don't get anything else
 

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Just did this. Wondering why I didn't do this years ago!?
In the fender I added a drip loop to avoid water running down and into the cab. I reused the grommet and added some silicone, but the drip loop doesn't hurt.
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