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I am slowly working on turning a high-mileage (261k) 2004 4x4 limited into a purpose-built snow cruiser for use here in the Rockies. I’m at the point where the next item is to address the aging JBL sound system. Initially, I thought the front speakers just needed repair, so I used the SimplySpeakers kit. That only made it clear that all of the other speakers were blown also.

I want to make sure I have it right with regard to thethe options in play. I don’t see any issue with the stock headunit, and If there’s an issue with the stock amps I can’t see what it is. It looks like I can do the following;

(1) Replace all of the factory speakers with factory non-blown replacements. Use an aftermarket (eg, the GROM Unit) to be able to pipe content from my phone into the headunit, take calls, etc. The pros here are that it basically keeps the whole thing stock. The negative is having to find replacement speakers that may or may not be so great.

(2) Aftermarket head unit, but wired through the JBL amps. Use an aftermarket steering-wheel controls integrator. Replace all of the factory speakers with non-blown replacements. The pros here is that it‘a only marginally more expensive to go to a much more capable head unit, and then I get lots more functionality but still keep a lot of the stock stuff (wiring, amps, etc).

(3) Aftermarket head unit, remove the JBL amps entirely, wire new head unit straight to new, non-factory speakers. This seems like the best overall option, but I don’t know how much work is involved? In my mind, I would isolate the wire pairs going to each door (eg, just one pair of wires), and extend each of those straight to the head unit. I would have 4 component speakers, all the same, of the 4-ohm component variety (eg, with built-in crossovers/tweeters) one in each door. I’m not an audiophile, and I mainly listen to podcasts and books on tape.

I’m leaning towards option (3). Has anyone done something similar? Any pitfalls I’m missing? It seems the simplest, most durable, probably cheapest, and most feature-rich setup - albeit labor intensive. Thanks for any input you guys can give me!
 

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I kept the JBL amp, and used it with my pioneer head unit. I love the pioneer NEX units like the 4201 or the newer W4500 NEX (wireless android auto or apple car play)

The blown speakers, i found, was actually fixed with some silicon or a highly flexible adhesive as the cone separates from the rubber. But i also replaced those speakers with newer ones and they sound amazing.

Everyone always compliments how the audio sounds in my 2002. Any new headunit, you would just wire the power antenna signal to the amp signal unless there is a separate signal for amp like on the pioneer units.

I added a small amp to the back of the second row seat (under the leather cover) and it powers a small 10 inch woofer in fit in the rear storage on the drivers side.

With this headunit upgrade, i probably dont have to replace my truck until the wheels fall off (or the LBJ seperates which i hope never happens)





Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Got it - seems like at least your speakers were salvageable! I'm positive mine...are not. Has anyone tried option 3? I'm curious to see if it would work out and if it would work the way I think it would...
 

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I have a full replacement on everything in my sequoia, it was a bit of work and it did cost but for me it was worth it.

I've sound deadened the firewall, the floor up to the middle row seats and the doors. Not necassary but it does help with roadnoise.

I replaced the headunit and ran RCA's to the amp. I have the amp under the passenger seat. From there each door has 2 sets of wire to them, they run through the grommets into the door. I couldn't get the wire in the sheathing(is that what you'd call it?) basically it runs through the big pieces of the grommet, then outside in between the door and body. It's still waterproof. I'll add a picture soon.
I ran 4 gauge from the battery through the grommet in the firewall, down the driver side to behind the driver seat and then cuts across. Ground is to the body using the floor under where the seat mounts and using the bolt from it to hold it in place.

I put a component set up front with the speakers in the stock locations and the tweeters relocated to the A-pillar. The stock tweeters are aimed right at you and when replaced will unpleasantly screech.
I did a full component set in the rear as well, I had it from when I upgraded a different vehicle so I used that instead of buying new coaxs. Coaxs would be more then fine.
The extra 2" (or maybe 2.5" I don't remember) speaker I completely disregarded and left unwired.

I'll send pictures when I can get some.

Another user ChrisD84 is doing a full rebuild of his system right now and I posted quite a bit of information over there as well. Sorting out car audio components for a complete swap...

Do you drive a ton? How important is super loud and high quality audio to you?
I would at a minimum do option 2. For most people it's more then enough although it does limit you on tunability as the stock amps will start to undo the tuning from your headunit.

And what about subs? a lot of people add a 10" in the compartment in the back on the driver side. If you do you'll definetly want to add a headunit. Also run the wiring under the car, it is way easier then running it through. I've done multiple runs thru the car and under the car. Under the car is better for most cases.



I have an oversized AGM battery and the high output alt from Mechman with the big 3 done.
I also have a 15" in the rear, I'm considering adding a second battery back there and another 2 8s. The 2 8's will be free as my brother is switching out his system and won't use them anymore.
Might as well shake the whole car apart.
 

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I kept the JBL amp, and used it with my pioneer head unit. I love the pioneer NEX units like the 4201 or the newer W4500 NEX (wireless android auto or apple car play)

The blown speakers, i found, was actually fixed with some silicon or a highly flexible adhesive as the cone separates from the rubber. But i also replaced those speakers with newer ones and they sound amazing.

Everyone always compliments how the audio sounds in my 2002. Any new headunit, you would just wire the power antenna signal to the amp signal unless there is a separate signal for amp like on the pioneer units.

I added a small amp to the back of the second row seat (under the leather cover) and it powers a small 10 inch woofer in fit in the rear storage on the drivers side.

With this headunit upgrade, i probably dont have to replace my truck until the wheels fall off (or the LBJ seperates which i hope never happens)





Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Do you have the rear entertainment screen and headphones? I have a 2005 Limited with these features and was wondering if I could replace the head unit with the W4500 NEX and still be able to use these? Any thoughts? THanks.
 

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I did not have the factory unit. I installed a 13 inch aftermarket solution. The audio works via bluetooth and the unit came with ir wireless headphones too

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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I am slowly working on turning a high-mileage (261k) 2004 4x4 limited into a purpose-built snow cruiser for use here in the Rockies. I’m at the point where the next item is to address the aging JBL sound system. Initially, I thought the front speakers just needed repair, so I used the SimplySpeakers kit. That only made it clear that all of the other speakers were blown also.

I want to make sure I have it right with regard to thethe options in play. I don’t see any issue with the stock headunit, and If there’s an issue with the stock amps I can’t see what it is. It looks like I can do the following;

(1) Replace all of the factory speakers with factory non-blown replacements. Use an aftermarket (eg, the GROM Unit) to be able to pipe content from my phone into the headunit, take calls, etc. The pros here are that it basically keeps the whole thing stock. The negative is having to find replacement speakers that may or may not be so great.

(2) Aftermarket head unit, but wired through the JBL amps. Use an aftermarket steering-wheel controls integrator. Replace all of the factory speakers with non-blown replacements. The pros here is that it‘a only marginally more expensive to go to a much more capable head unit, and then I get lots more functionality but still keep a lot of the stock stuff (wiring, amps, etc).

(3) Aftermarket head unit, remove the JBL amps entirely, wire new head unit straight to new, non-factory speakers. This seems like the best overall option, but I don’t know how much work is involved? In my mind, I would isolate the wire pairs going to each door (eg, just one pair of wires), and extend each of those straight to the head unit. I would have 4 component speakers, all the same, of the 4-ohm component variety (eg, with built-in crossovers/tweeters) one in each door. I’m not an audiophile, and I mainly listen to podcasts and books on tape.

I’m leaning towards option (3). Has anyone done something similar? Any pitfalls I’m missing? It seems the simplest, most durable, probably cheapest, and most feature-rich setup - albeit labor intensive. Thanks for any input you guys can give me!
That's exactly what I did Option 3: Replaced the Head Unit with a Pioneer 2330NEX ,replaced the factory speakers with JBL concert series component speakers and took out that JBL submit that 8inch from under the rear seat a d replaced it with a subwooer box with 2(10")kickers and its running from its own amp under rear seat. Iran the front and back speakers to the back of the hed unit being it has a built in amp,but I will eventually get one to go under the front passenger seat and run all the speakers to it. Overall it has a dam good sound with bass, no rattling and muffled music at all.
 

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That's exactly what I did Option 3: Replaced the Head Unit with a Pioneer 2330NEX ,replaced the factory speakers with JBL concert series component speakers and took out that JBL submit that 8inch from under the rear seat a d replaced it with a subwooer box with 2(10")kickers and its running from its own amp under rear seat. Iran the front and back speakers to the back of the hed unit being it has a built in amp,but I will eventually get one to go under the front passenger seat and run all the speakers to it. Overall it has a dam good sound with bass, no rattling and muffled music at all.
So I realize I had it ALMOST right with Option 3 - the only piece I was missing was an adapter that would let me plug into the "speaker out" plugs that plug into the two JBL amps, then run the wires from those straight to the Head Unit harness. Fortunately, I found the ones that work! They are for an Isuzu trooper, but all I needed was the correct sized plug. For those interested, it's a Metra 70-7712 harness - you'll need two of them (one for the front amp, one for the rear amp). Then you just re-pin the harness so the wire colors for each speaker match the right door pairs. You'll also need the Metra 70-8113 for purposes of getting power/ground/etc - but you won't use the RCA plugs coming out of that one.

So, in the next few weeks I'm going to put in 4 new speakers - JVC CS-DR1721 - in each door - using the Metra 82-8513 adapters to put them in place of the 7-inch JBLs that were in each door. I'll take out the mid-range and tweeter from the wiring loops (since I don't need or want them, and they are blown anyway). I'll wire up each Metra 70-7712 to speaker wires, that will ultimately feed into the harness for a JVC KW-M560BT. The 70-7712s will plug into the speaker outputs where the old JBL amps used to plug in. Later on, if I want to add an amp, a sub or something else, it should be fairly straightforward.

Thanks for all the help! I intend to take photos and post a DIY when I actually do it in a few weeks.
 
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