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I am slowly working on turning a high-mileage (261k) 2004 4x4 limited into a purpose-built snow cruiser for use here in the Rockies. I’m at the point where the next item is to address the aging JBL sound system. Initially, I thought the front speakers just needed repair, so I used the SimplySpeakers kit. That only made it clear that all of the other speakers were blown also.

I want to make sure I have it right with regard to thethe options in play. I don’t see any issue with the stock headunit, and If there’s an issue with the stock amps I can’t see what it is. It looks like I can do the following;

(1) Replace all of the factory speakers with factory non-blown replacements. Use an aftermarket (eg, the GROM Unit) to be able to pipe content from my phone into the headunit, take calls, etc. The pros here are that it basically keeps the whole thing stock. The negative is having to find replacement speakers that may or may not be so great.

(2) Aftermarket head unit, but wired through the JBL amps. Use an aftermarket steering-wheel controls integrator. Replace all of the factory speakers with non-blown replacements. The pros here is that it‘a only marginally more expensive to go to a much more capable head unit, and then I get lots more functionality but still keep a lot of the stock stuff (wiring, amps, etc).

(3) Aftermarket head unit, remove the JBL amps entirely, wire new head unit straight to new, non-factory speakers. This seems like the best overall option, but I don’t know how much work is involved? In my mind, I would isolate the wire pairs going to each door (eg, just one pair of wires), and extend each of those straight to the head unit. I would have 4 component speakers, all the same, of the 4-ohm component variety (eg, with built-in crossovers/tweeters) one in each door. I’m not an audiophile, and I mainly listen to podcasts and books on tape.

I’m leaning towards option (3). Has anyone done something similar? Any pitfalls I’m missing? It seems the simplest, most durable, probably cheapest, and most feature-rich setup - albeit labor intensive. Thanks for any input you guys can give me!
 

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I kept the JBL amp, and used it with my pioneer head unit. I love the pioneer NEX units like the 4201 or the newer W4500 NEX (wireless android auto or apple car play)

The blown speakers, i found, was actually fixed with some silicon or a highly flexible adhesive as the cone separates from the rubber. But i also replaced those speakers with newer ones and they sound amazing.

Everyone always compliments how the audio sounds in my 2002. Any new headunit, you would just wire the power antenna signal to the amp signal unless there is a separate signal for amp like on the pioneer units.

I added a small amp to the back of the second row seat (under the leather cover) and it powers a small 10 inch woofer in fit in the rear storage on the drivers side.

With this headunit upgrade, i probably dont have to replace my truck until the wheels fall off (or the LBJ seperates which i hope never happens)





Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Got it - seems like at least your speakers were salvageable! I'm positive mine...are not. Has anyone tried option 3? I'm curious to see if it would work out and if it would work the way I think it would...
 

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I have a full replacement on everything in my sequoia, it was a bit of work and it did cost but for me it was worth it.

I've sound deadened the firewall, the floor up to the middle row seats and the doors. Not necassary but it does help with roadnoise.

I replaced the headunit and ran RCA's to the amp. I have the amp under the passenger seat. From there each door has 2 sets of wire to them, they run through the grommets into the door. I couldn't get the wire in the sheathing(is that what you'd call it?) basically it runs through the big pieces of the grommet, then outside in between the door and body. It's still waterproof. I'll add a picture soon.
I ran 4 gauge from the battery through the grommet in the firewall, down the driver side to behind the driver seat and then cuts across. Ground is to the body using the floor under where the seat mounts and using the bolt from it to hold it in place.

I put a component set up front with the speakers in the stock locations and the tweeters relocated to the A-pillar. The stock tweeters are aimed right at you and when replaced will unpleasantly screech.
I did a full component set in the rear as well, I had it from when I upgraded a different vehicle so I used that instead of buying new coaxs. Coaxs would be more then fine.
The extra 2" (or maybe 2.5" I don't remember) speaker I completely disregarded and left unwired.

I'll send pictures when I can get some.

Another user ChrisD84 is doing a full rebuild of his system right now and I posted quite a bit of information over there as well. Sorting out car audio components for a complete swap...

Do you drive a ton? How important is super loud and high quality audio to you?
I would at a minimum do option 2. For most people it's more then enough although it does limit you on tunability as the stock amps will start to undo the tuning from your headunit.

And what about subs? a lot of people add a 10" in the compartment in the back on the driver side. If you do you'll definetly want to add a headunit. Also run the wiring under the car, it is way easier then running it through. I've done multiple runs thru the car and under the car. Under the car is better for most cases.



I have an oversized AGM battery and the high output alt from Mechman with the big 3 done.
I also have a 15" in the rear, I'm considering adding a second battery back there and another 2 8s. The 2 8's will be free as my brother is switching out his system and won't use them anymore.
Might as well shake the whole car apart.
 

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I kept the JBL amp, and used it with my pioneer head unit. I love the pioneer NEX units like the 4201 or the newer W4500 NEX (wireless android auto or apple car play)

The blown speakers, i found, was actually fixed with some silicon or a highly flexible adhesive as the cone separates from the rubber. But i also replaced those speakers with newer ones and they sound amazing.

Everyone always compliments how the audio sounds in my 2002. Any new headunit, you would just wire the power antenna signal to the amp signal unless there is a separate signal for amp like on the pioneer units.

I added a small amp to the back of the second row seat (under the leather cover) and it powers a small 10 inch woofer in fit in the rear storage on the drivers side.

With this headunit upgrade, i probably dont have to replace my truck until the wheels fall off (or the LBJ seperates which i hope never happens)





Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Do you have the rear entertainment screen and headphones? I have a 2005 Limited with these features and was wondering if I could replace the head unit with the W4500 NEX and still be able to use these? Any thoughts? THanks.
 

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I did not have the factory unit. I installed a 13 inch aftermarket solution. The audio works via bluetooth and the unit came with ir wireless headphones too

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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I am slowly working on turning a high-mileage (261k) 2004 4x4 limited into a purpose-built snow cruiser for use here in the Rockies. I’m at the point where the next item is to address the aging JBL sound system. Initially, I thought the front speakers just needed repair, so I used the SimplySpeakers kit. That only made it clear that all of the other speakers were blown also.

I want to make sure I have it right with regard to thethe options in play. I don’t see any issue with the stock headunit, and If there’s an issue with the stock amps I can’t see what it is. It looks like I can do the following;

(1) Replace all of the factory speakers with factory non-blown replacements. Use an aftermarket (eg, the GROM Unit) to be able to pipe content from my phone into the headunit, take calls, etc. The pros here are that it basically keeps the whole thing stock. The negative is having to find replacement speakers that may or may not be so great.

(2) Aftermarket head unit, but wired through the JBL amps. Use an aftermarket steering-wheel controls integrator. Replace all of the factory speakers with non-blown replacements. The pros here is that it‘a only marginally more expensive to go to a much more capable head unit, and then I get lots more functionality but still keep a lot of the stock stuff (wiring, amps, etc).

(3) Aftermarket head unit, remove the JBL amps entirely, wire new head unit straight to new, non-factory speakers. This seems like the best overall option, but I don’t know how much work is involved? In my mind, I would isolate the wire pairs going to each door (eg, just one pair of wires), and extend each of those straight to the head unit. I would have 4 component speakers, all the same, of the 4-ohm component variety (eg, with built-in crossovers/tweeters) one in each door. I’m not an audiophile, and I mainly listen to podcasts and books on tape.

I’m leaning towards option (3). Has anyone done something similar? Any pitfalls I’m missing? It seems the simplest, most durable, probably cheapest, and most feature-rich setup - albeit labor intensive. Thanks for any input you guys can give me!
That's exactly what I did Option 3: Replaced the Head Unit with a Pioneer 2330NEX ,replaced the factory speakers with JBL concert series component speakers and took out that JBL submit that 8inch from under the rear seat a d replaced it with a subwooer box with 2(10")kickers and its running from its own amp under rear seat. Iran the front and back speakers to the back of the hed unit being it has a built in amp,but I will eventually get one to go under the front passenger seat and run all the speakers to it. Overall it has a dam good sound with bass, no rattling and muffled music at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's exactly what I did Option 3: Replaced the Head Unit with a Pioneer 2330NEX ,replaced the factory speakers with JBL concert series component speakers and took out that JBL submit that 8inch from under the rear seat a d replaced it with a subwooer box with 2(10")kickers and its running from its own amp under rear seat. Iran the front and back speakers to the back of the hed unit being it has a built in amp,but I will eventually get one to go under the front passenger seat and run all the speakers to it. Overall it has a dam good sound with bass, no rattling and muffled music at all.
So I realize I had it ALMOST right with Option 3 - the only piece I was missing was an adapter that would let me plug into the "speaker out" plugs that plug into the two JBL amps, then run the wires from those straight to the Head Unit harness. Fortunately, I found the ones that work! They are for an Isuzu trooper, but all I needed was the correct sized plug. For those interested, it's a Metra 70-7712 harness - you'll need two of them (one for the front amp, one for the rear amp). Then you just re-pin the harness so the wire colors for each speaker match the right door pairs. You'll also need the Metra 70-8113 for purposes of getting power/ground/etc - but you won't use the RCA plugs coming out of that one.

So, in the next few weeks I'm going to put in 4 new speakers - JVC CS-DR1721 - in each door - using the Metra 82-8513 adapters to put them in place of the 7-inch JBLs that were in each door. I'll take out the mid-range and tweeter from the wiring loops (since I don't need or want them, and they are blown anyway). I'll wire up each Metra 70-7712 to speaker wires, that will ultimately feed into the harness for a JVC KW-M560BT. The 70-7712s will plug into the speaker outputs where the old JBL amps used to plug in. Later on, if I want to add an amp, a sub or something else, it should be fairly straightforward.

Thanks for all the help! I intend to take photos and post a DIY when I actually do it in a few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
UPDATE: We're 95% there! I changed the route a bit, but basically did exactly this, and it worked great. Here's what I used;

Head Unit: Alpine ILX-650 (w/Micro Bypass parking brake override adapter)
Front Speakers: Infinity Reference 6532ex Coaxials/Metra 82-8513 adapters
Rear Speakers: Infinity Reference 6532ex Coaxials - no adapter needed
Steering Wheel Controls: Metra Axxess ASC-W1/Metra 70-8114 adapter

I used two Metra 70-7712 adapters to create a wiring harness to go plug into the "output" plugs that were previously on the front and rear JBL amplifiers. This let me use the factory wiring that originally ran to the front woofers (the large speakers in the front doors), for which there is a direct plug-in adapter (so no splicing required there). One of those harnesses needed to be about 4 feet (the rear one) the other about 2 feet (the front one). I wired those into the Alpine harness.

I wired battery, ACC, ground, and power antenna into that same Alpine harness using Metra 8113 adapter, again, no cutting of factory wiring required. I was able to use the Metra 70-8114 to directly plug into the factory steering wheel control plug, I just had to wire it to the ACC and ground connections in the Alpine harness. So no splicing or cutting of the factory wiring there either.

I have three steps left - figuring out exactly where to mount the bluetooth microphone (right now it's taped to the top of the steering column), tapping into a reverse wire location (for the eventual backup camera install) and...well...the backup camera install. I also intend to install a front camera eventually. Once I had all the adapters sorted out, this actually worked very well. The biggest problem I had was forgetting to disconnect the battery during a bunch of the work and running it all the way down.
 

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Tapping into a back up wire can be done in one of the rear pillars- don't recall the color coding but was easy to identify coming from the reverse light. I mounted a license plate mounted camera on my 2002 Limited. Getting behind the left rear tail ight was not too difficult. I had installed a Pioneer headunit many years ago, adding Bluetooth and a steering wheel mounted remote as mine did not have controls on the wheel with the factory JBL system. mounted the microphone on top of the rear view mirror. Used IR repeater to relay signal from remote to head unit as remote fit better on left side of steering wheel (cruise control stalk is on the right side) emitter is coming out right side of overhead console. Since you had steering wheel controls and the adaptor you were able to skip this step and undoubtedly expanded your options for headunit brand. Initially used factory amps and speakers but after replacing weird 7-1/2 inch woofer 2-1/2 mid combo front door speakers twice due to dry rotting cones, went full aftermarket amp and speakers. Mosconi amp under drivers seat with Illusion Audio C3Cx in Sail panels, crossover mounted in door for the C3Cx's, C8s in original door panel locations. Ran new speaker wire as the Mosconi D2 80.6 amp also serves as cross over between the C3Cxs and the C8s for the front channels as well as equalizer functions. A little bit of a pain to adjust the Mosconi settings as requires hooking up a laptop but once set is wonderful. Do not have a separate sub, just using the C8s as wanted to preserve cargo/work functionality. will try to take some pictures in daylight, night pics did not come out well with flash.
 

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Pictures- Night concerning above. Also visible bottom left of 1st picture is gauge and controller for Firestone rear suspension air helper bags that fit inside coil springs. Red tape marks do not exceed pressure. Trailer brake is further to left and not visible. Wires on amplifier are usually not that visible but I had slid it back and doing some tweaking on equalizer settings with Laptop, did not fully tuck everything back in yet. As above, the small dot on the steering wheel tilt lever is the IR receiver in picture 6 and the emitter is the small black piece sticking out from behind the overhead console in picture 7. the dash cam unclips to the right so burying it behind the right side of the mirror is really not as awkward as it appears keeps it from obstructing any more of the the line of sight/windshield. I am not one to reduce visibility if possible.
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daytime pictures 2002 Sequoia Limited 4WD TRD Supercharged July 8, 2020 230,000 miles
Picture 2 shows microphone mounted on top of mirror. against windshield on passenger side of center, the dash cam is also partly seen.
Picture 3 shows image from reverse camera as I am preparing to hook up trailer to retrieve lawn mower from shop. down and left from Hazard switch shows additional power plug installed and dedicated to dash cam. Further left shows Air bag suspension gauge, controller switch, and even further left is trailer brake controller. the gauge does light at night. NOT SEEN in photo but mounted on side of trailer brake controller is a small toggle switch for the power antenna. This is important because if I receive a cell call, even with stereo turned off, this particular headunit raises the power antenna for the duration of the call. NOT SOMETHING you want to happen in the middle of a car wash!!!! Also gives me a way to manually put the antenna down if near brush or low limbs. Wiring is simple- if toggle is up, antenna can go up. If toggle is down, antenna will stay down even if stereo on. Only function this really affects is FM radio as Satelite and other functions do not use the power antenna.
Picture 4 simply shows the modified sail panel mounting of the Illusion Audio C3Cx. The C8 takes up all the space behind the original door mount. The C3Cx has its own factory supplied crossover for tweeter-midrange. The Mosconi D2 6.80 serves as cross over between the C3Cx and the C8 and is set at 400, similar to article in PASMAG 2015.
Reverse Camera.jpg
 

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Pictures- Night concerning above. Also visible bottom left of 1st picture is gauge and controller for Firestone rear suspension air helper bags that fit inside coil springs. Red tape marks do not exceed pressure. Trailer brake is further to left and not visible. Wires on amplifier are usually not that visible but I had slid it back and doing some tweaking on equalizer settings with Laptop, did not fully tuck everything back in yet. As above, the small dot on the steering wheel tilt lever is the IR receiver and the emitter is the small black piece sticking out from behind the overhead console. the dash cam unclips to the right so burying it behind the right side of the mirror is really not as awkward as it appears keeps it from obstructing any more of the the line of sight/windshield. I am not one to reduce visibility if possible.
 

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