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DevinSixtySeven (Sean), I drive an '00 with 176k miles and while doing a trans flush, I pulled the hose from the input to the radiator, and the entire threaded plug came out in my hand. Upon inspection, it appeared the aluminum threaded insert had corroded as the threads were nearly gone. Luckly at this point my truck was in the shop, but I still had to make an emergency trip to Autozone for a new one as the truck is my dd. After taking out the old radiator, it looked at the 2nd port (flow out) and those threads were gone as well. It looked like the insert was stripped, but they had never been removed to my knowledge. With the new radiator in, and a quick flush of the ATF just to be safe, I'm back in business. I live in north/central Idaho where there is no salt on the roads, and mine still had the issue. My truck has no rust anywhere, so I'm confident that road grime wasn't a factor. I'm just thankful it happened the way it did, in the shop, and not driving down the road because likely I would have had full flow of ATF (~3qts/min) spraying out on the ground.
 

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in a very early post it was stated to use only toyota red A/F. can someone explain what the reason for this over a brand name coolant and if you were to put in a new rad in other than an OEM would the toyota red still need to be used? is it the rad that needs the red or the whole engine (cooling system)? i didn't write it down but it looks like quite a few of these were 2000 that had a problem with well over 100,000 miles. so why not just get an OEM rad that would just drop in instead of a unit that might need some mods to get to fit right.. toyota probably knew there was a problem but like anything by the time it reared it ugly head they wouldn't do anything for anybody anyway, but did find a new vendor to make it the right way. one last thing---i heard that when this happens the hoses need to be changed cause the trans. fluid will damage the hoses from the inside out---TRUE?????
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Update. I changed and flushed the Rad in 2012 when I first posted this on the forum. I have had no problems at all with the tranny. I have put about 40,000 miles on it since the radiator imploded.
 

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DevinSixtySeven (Sean), I drive an '00 with 176k miles and while doing a trans flush, I pulled the hose from the input to the radiator, and the entire threaded plug came out in my hand. Upon inspection, it appeared the aluminum threaded insert had corroded as the threads were nearly gone. Luckly at this point my truck was in the shop, but I still had to make an emergency trip to Autozone for a new one as the truck is my dd. After taking out the old radiator, it looked at the 2nd port (flow out) and those threads were gone as well. It looked like the insert was stripped, but they had never been removed to my knowledge. With the new radiator in, and a quick flush of the ATF just to be safe, I'm back in business. I live in north/central Idaho where there is no salt on the roads, and mine still had the issue. My truck has no rust anywhere, so I'm confident that road grime wasn't a factor. I'm just thankful it happened the way it did, in the shop, and not driving down the road because likely I would have had full flow of ATF (~3qts/min) spraying out on the ground.
Could you let us know what coolant you were running? I just found this thread a few days ago. I've always put Prestone in my rigs except for the Tundra, where I've stayed with the expensive red Toyota brand. I'm at 120K miles on my 2000. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Napa carries an Asian Red radiator fluid that is made for the Japanese cars. I have been using it for the last several years with no problems. Just to clear up my last post, I flushed my radiator and engine to clear it of all the tranny fluid from the system. I also flushed the transmission with about 10 gallons of tranny fluid using the 5gal bucket method, followed by a transmission filter change.
 

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I would like to second illinois524' questions. I was having the same thoughts as I was reading all the posts. I have a 2004 DC w/89K. Was this issue fixed by then? Also, can this fitting be visually inspected or do you have to remove parts to get to it?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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This one, right? 100$ at the moment. If this is correct, I'm ordering up right now.

http://www.importpartsguy.com/item.wws?sku=221-0517&itempk=163893&mfr=DENSO&weight=30

Something I'm noticing is the guys reporting leaks are in areas with road salt. If anyone had this happen and doesn't drive in saltwater several months of the year (nor have you, ever), I'd like to hear about it.

-Sean
Hello Sean,

Did you ever order one of these radiators?
I was wondering if it was an exact replacement.
If so, I think I will order and install one also.
Please let us know.
Thanks!

Jim
 

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The reason for sticking with a particular coolant formulation as defined by the manufacturer is that they are the ones in a position to best understand the dynamics between the chemical makeup of a coolant and its effects on the particular metals (iron block, aluminum heads, aluminum rad core, etc) and seals (yes... you must make sure that the coolant isn't going to break down any seal material it comes into contact with...) in their engine.

There have been several threads here that have gone into chemical detail on the differences between coolant formulations, i.e. phosphates, silicates, etc. Note that anecdotal evidence ("I've been running __________ antifreeze for ____ years and haven't had a problem.") is NOT proof of concept. Absence of proof is not proof of absence.

As was stated, Xerex makes a coolant formulation that is chemically compatible with the OEM Red coolant. I haven't used it simply because I've never found it cheaper than the gallon of Red at my dealer ($20).
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Remmy, One thing you quickly learn living in DTW is that all of the car companies us suppliers for almost everything. Toyota is not using seals made by some ancient Japans method. The are manufactured by a supplier to SAE standards.
 

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Remmy, One thing you quickly learn living in DTW is that all of the car companies us suppliers for almost everything. Toyota is not using seals made by some ancient Japans method. The are manufactured by a supplier to SAE standards.
Is this statement an assertion that infers that there exists no substantive difference between coolant formulations?
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
No not at all. What I'm saying is these suppliers also sell the same product to the retail market just without the Toyota name or mark up.
 

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I have researched (on this forum) the problem with the first generation Tundras that had the failure of the trans oil
cooler in the radiator. I could find only year 2000 and V8 models with this failure. I may have missed some or
information may be incomplete in the posts. So it looks like Toyota may have solved the problem after the 2000
models. I think this may ease the minds of a lot of you.

Paul
 

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I have researched (on this forum) the problem with the first generation Tundras that had the failure of the trans oil
cooler in the radiator. I could find only year 2000 and V8 models with this failure. I may have missed some or
information may be incomplete in the posts. So it looks like Toyota may have solved the problem after the 2000
models. I think this may ease the minds of a lot of you.

Paul
<BUZZZZ>

Sorry, you are incorrect. Sorry but you do not qualify for the Lightning Round where scores really increase.

My 2003 had the same failure. Same situation.
Still running a high mileage original radiator?
Want to keep your truck in great reliable condition for many years to come?

Order up a new Denso radiator assembly from Rock Auto (don't forget the 5% discount code) and change it out when you have some free time.
Believe me, waiting for it to fail may cost you your motor, your transmission, or both. At least it will cost you a day or two of downtime and a tow bill.
 

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Thank you for adding to the record. However, I am reporting on what was mentioned on this forum. There were twenty instances
of this failure, all of them 2000 models and not a single mention of it happening to the 3.4 V6.

Paul
 

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I wonder if changing the coolant and synthetic ATF fluid every 30K miles has a significant impact? I changed out my failed radiator at 175K miles with zero signs of galvanic corrosion on my 02 Tundra. Fitting had no rust whatsoever and the truck lived outdoors in New England for 13-14 years before it was changed.
 

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I wonder if changing the coolant and synthetic ATF fluid every 30K miles has a significant impact? I changed out my failed radiator at 175K miles with zero signs of galvanic corrosion on my 02 Tundra. Fitting had no rust whatsoever and the truck lived outdoors in New England for 13-14 years before it was changed.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/129549-still-running-your-original-radiator-change/

My brother had his transmission serviced (2003 Tundra, V8 automatic ~ 120K miles) and within a week he had the dreaded 'strawberry milkshake' going in his radiator. Needless to say he had to replace the radiator and flush the transmission again. Replacing the radiator might be some cheap insurance against such happening to any 1Gen Tundra.

 

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My brother had his transmission serviced (2003 Tundra, V8 automatic ~ 120K miles) and within a week he had the dreaded 'strawberry milkshake' going in his radiator. Needless to say he had to replace the radiator and flush the transmission again. Replacing the radiator might be some cheap insurance against such happening to any 1Gen Tundra.​
Did he change out the coolant regularly? Say every 30-50K miles? I'm wonder if the regular changing of mine contributed toward it not going bad.
 
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