The best money can buy rotor's& pad's?

hi, i want to go to the track. they now have road racing & the 1/4 mile.
o've course it need's to be street worthy. i have to drive it.
with that said, i don't have a issue changing the pad's every 10,000 miles at 300 a set if that is what it costs.
i also don't have a issue with the 10g's putting them in.

but if ,as you say doesn't work well with our master cyc. & power brake unit, & brake lines,
whats the since, in going for that set up.
still i would like to know who makes them, i would like to speak to that company to whom you are referring to.

also i like the 2nd post, & go with the red pads. are the red pad's made by EBC?
can you find out or will this company know what i need to order, for my specific tundra?
i will have to do a search for this company.

from what i've been told i have a brembo set up.
maybe just go with racing pad's that fit these caliper's.
thanks,
gorilla

hi, i'm going to try the EBC red pad's.
i'm also am going to have my rotors turned, as they suggested.
it says it takes a while for them to brake in. not a problem.
i also read that ALL rotors will eventually warp.
especially if you are doing what i want to.
so to spend 10g's for something that doesn't work well with our tundra's,
is insane. what do i have to loose. cut the rotors, so they are perfectly flat, buy the red stuff,
& wait about 3 weeks of driving, to brake them in. they claim a 50' shorter distance at 100mph.
thats good enough for now.
thanks for the info points given. i found the web site & all it's info.
i will be calling them asap.
thanks,
gorilla

Hey Gorilla

Be careful what you wish for sometimes !

I have been instructing ( and racing) with road racing clubs for 15 yrs now and have gone through many sets of brakes, tires and other parts over that period.

I have found that it is very difficult to drive a street car at the track safely and efficiently. And it is as difficult to drive a track car on the street ( and be legal and safe).

What you are trying to accomplish here is, essentially, the impossible. To have a car (or truck) that is ready for the track and also ready for the street.

I think you should consider getting a track toy (Miata or such ) that will pull 1.2 to 1.4 Gs in the turns and yet be safe, predictable and reliable. For about $8,000 to 10,000 you can do that.

A full set of StopTech or Brembo brakes for your truck will cost almost as much and the truck being heavy and tall will never come close to those numbers in the turns.

Meanwhile, not only you should replace the front rotors and calipers but also the rear set up to balance your braking ( large discs and calipers ). Don't you forget the proportioning valve as well along with reinforced brake lines. Your Tundra has "brake assist" also ( which increases the braking force in a transparent fashion). Be careful that this feature is still operating as it should.

Redesigning a complete brake set up is no laughing matter and I have seen many amateurs attempt it with rather limited success.

What makes brake rotors less subject to fading is a larger mass ( heat sink process) and larger calipers with a lot of additional ventilation to cool the whole system down.

I don't see a Tundra doing well ( and be safe) in that situation, sorry, just being honest.

hi thankyou for you insight.
i plan on running so type of air venting directly to what i have.
i contacted EBC they advised me to do a pro-cut disc resurfacing, & the yellow pads.
which will be your best set up for both.
without going wild like you said, racing set up & street are 2 totally differnet thing's.
and can't be both done correctly together.
i just wonder how caddy's CST-V, or M3, or even WRS, etc. can do both?
i know it's a truck, & it's heavy. i'm in no way entering a road race or raing the 1/4 national's. LOL
i just wanted to know, when i get there, i can go have a hour or 2 of fun, & than drive home.
and go back to normal life.
tryed to give points. no can do.the thought is there.
thanks,
gorilla

you've already upgraded your factory brake system via a bigger contact area from your wider tires. one of the best things you could do is to get even stickier tires. they won't last as long and it's the price you pay for traction. get some driving lessons from someone like Boosted27606 that can show you how to properly use your brakes on a road course as driving technique plays a huge role here. you will end up cheaper in the long run if you stay with your stock front rotors and just replace them (along with tires) while upgrading your pads, fluid, and lines. gonna need rear discs too. drilled rotors are for show. that's why you've heard of them failing. they're alright for street driving because on average they don't ever heat up like on a track.

the best advise i've seen here came from our professional driving instructor who said to get a dedicated track car because it'll allow you to enjoy your tundra on a daily basis for a longer period of time. you can trailer your car with the tundra too! track vehicle = thinner wallet. a heavier vehicle like the tundra could create an exponential effect in this area. wait... hear that... are those cash registers in the background??? cha-ching!!! i am glad you have the money to spend, brother. have lot's of fun!

gorilla asked:

" I just wonder how Caddy's CST-V, or M3, or even WRS, etc. can do both?"

Trust me, they don't.

Serious road racers use those cars on the street and typically replace pads, rotors, brake fluid and wheels ( with race tires on ) for a week end at the track.

Sunday night, they reverse the process for the (stock) street set up.

Street tires and brake pads won't do well at the track and the hot, acidic dust released by the pads will eat the paint off the wheels. Keep in mind that the rotors might reach 1100 F quite easily and stock paint inches away do not have much of a chance for survival.

White LiteNin says:

"get some driving lessons from someone like Boosted27606 that can show you how to properly use your brakes on a road course as driving technique plays a huge role here."

Absolutely, brother ! Driving skills are often more important than power or braking ( or extra noise from a huge exhaust! ). I cannot recall how many times I have seen fast cars ( Corvettes, Vipers, Mustangs, 911s ...ect) being humbled by a slick Miata with Hoosiers tires on and a good driver at the wheel. In fact, I have many in car videos proving it.

To make a long story short, if you are looking for thrills and yet stay safe and save a few $$, buy or rent a small dedicated track car and spend a few week ends at Sebring, Daytona, Road Atlanta and a few other local tracks with some of the established car clubs who organize driving events there. ( BMWCCA, Porsche PCA, NASA ....) I have instructed with all of those and I promise you a ton of fun and a sharpening of your driving skills to boot.

I agree with everything Boosted recommends. In fact, I've been humbled sometimes myself by well-driven and prepared Miatas.

The other thing you need to be concerned about is safety while doing high-speed lapping. I've seen cars go off-track at really high speeds and not have a happy ending. IMO, the chance of having brakes overheat or a tire blow out due to overheating in a truck is pretty high. Image approaching the end of a straight away at 100 mph+ only to find you don't have any brakes. :-O
I've chunked street tires in my car in lapping sessions before I switched to rubber that could handle the heat.

Also, you will likely find that most organized driving event holders will not allow trucks on track. There's not only the increased concern of roll-over should you go off-track sideways but also of hitting another car (yes, it happens) with your much heavier and higher vehicle.

If cost is an issue in buying another car, find a buddy in a similar situation and find a cheap track beater to share (Miata, RX7, Civic, etc.). Even a low-powered, well-prepped car will be much more fun than your truck.