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The best money can buy rotor's& pad's?

2861 Views 19 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  GORILLA
hello, i have a question to anyone & everyone, that know's for SURE!

i have a 05 toyota tundra double cab 4.7l VVTI V8.with that said:

i'm into a new project, & i would like to change my front rotors & pad's to a:
racing set up.
meaning high speed braking, braking in the corner's, less fade, etc.
when alot of heat is built up, due to road racing drag racing.
i might also add a NOS kit. so i want to be able to stop ASAP!

also to ensure no high speed wabbling from a warped rotor's.
so any idea's of the best 3 type's you yourself would consider?

PLEASE! no cheap ebay garbage, unless you know that ebay sell's the 1 you reccomend.
i talked to a few people who already bought either drilled or slotted rotors & pad's, off of ebay and had issue's, & a few put back the old set up, due to cracking on the rotor's.

i want it to be a direct bolt on type, top of the line.
i wanted to post it in the braking section, but here i belive it would get alot more hit's.
hopefully this might help other's, if we all know of the best 3 set up's, in these area's. normaly i would stay stock, but i want to up-grade to the best possible racing set up available.
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A couple of questions:

1. Do you want a true racing/track setup, or street/driving brakes that capture some of the "racing" style, feel, etc?
2. Are you seriously willing to change rotors & pads every 5K-10K miles?

All anecdotal evidence asserts that, when you go to a "racing" rotor (i.e. drilled and/or slotted) as well as a "racing" pad compound, you are seriously sacrificing longevity and the dusting will be horrible. Further, I am of the opinion that the stock size brake components on our trucks (S13WE and 13WL) do not lend themselves well to "converting" into a true racing setup. They are simply too small for the weight of the vehicle. No matter what you do, you just aren't going to get Porsche-type braking on a 5500lb Tundra.

Is that what you really want for your truck?
I have EBC front rotors and pads and I can feel a tremendous difference. I know it probably isn't the extreme "race" setup you were thinking, but they work awesome. I just got the regular EBC rotors (no drilled or slotted) and the Green Stuff pads. My dad put some Red Stuff pads on his last car and it stopped so hard it would almost put you through the windshield!
hi, i want to go to the track. they now have road racing & the 1/4 mile.
o've course it need's to be street worthy. i have to drive it.
with that said, i don't have a issue changing the pad's every 10,000 miles at 300 a set if that is what it costs.
i also don't have a issue with the 10g's putting them in.

but if ,as you say doesn't work well with our master cyc. & power brake unit, & brake lines,
whats the since, in going for that set up.
still i would like to know who makes them, i would like to speak to that company to whom you are referring to.

also i like the 2nd post, & go with the red pads. are the red pad's made by EBC?
can you find out or will this company know what i need to order, for my specific tundra?
i will have to do a search for this company.

from what i've been told i have a brembo set up.
maybe just go with racing pad's that fit these caliper's.
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hi, i'm going to try the EBC red pad's.
i'm also am going to have my rotors turned, as they suggested.
it says it takes a while for them to brake in. not a problem.
i also read that ALL rotors will eventually warp.
especially if you are doing what i want to.
so to spend 10g's for something that doesn't work well with our tundra's,
is insane. what do i have to loose. cut the rotors, so they are perfectly flat, buy the red stuff,
& wait about 3 weeks of driving, to brake them in. they claim a 50' shorter distance at 100mph.
thats good enough for now.
thanks for the info points given. i found the web site & all it's info.
i will be calling them asap.
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If you want stopping power on your truck, definitely look into Big Brake Kit (and most of them do require that you have at least 20" rims). Main reason for BBK, is that you have more area to heat up, and it makes less chances for you to warp those rotors. Again they are not cheap, but more effective then stock set up.

As far as Brake Booster with Master Brake Cylinder, I would swap yours with Toyota T-100 set-up. Few guys on this forum did that, and they are saying that brake pedal feels a lot more firm then stock set up.
hi thanks crazy ivan

Just a question: would you consider buying a dedicated track car for $10k rather than upgrading your truck's brakes???
Driving a truck on a road course will be painful (I've tried) and I think you'd have much more fun w/ a car. You can buy a good handling and braking car for $10k in this economy that will run circles around our trucks (even w/ NOx).

Also, you won't need much braking for 1/4 mile drag runs unless the track you go isn't well designed.

If you do want to move forward w/ upgrading your truck's brakes, you'll need to look at a racing brake mfgr like Stoptech, Brembe, etc. then figure out a way to adapt one of their calipers to our trucks. Also keep in mind: a good set of brake pads will set you back ~$300 and won't last long w/ our heavy vehicles. I get about 3 track weekends (figure 9 hours of track time) out of a set of front pads and my car only weighs 3,000 lbs.
Oh, I forgot to mention. Look at better cooling to reduce rotor warpage. If you look at any road course race car, they will have cooling ducts going to the caliper or rotor. Try running a scoop in front feeding some flexible tubing that directs air to the center of the rotor. Try to keep the tubing as straight as possible as bends reduce airflow.
hi, thankyou- great idea! i will do that also.
it's not like i will be at the track everyday nor every weekend.
but, i'm going to need better brakes now.
i do appreciate all your time & input on this.
i will consider all options.
p-car tower points given. thankyou.
crazy ivan it will not alllow me to give them to you, sorry.
thankyou to you all,
whatever set up you decide to go with,don't forget about quality brake fluid and SS braided brake lines!Look at the wet boiling point! The best you can get is a castrol SRF brake fluid!best stuff on earth!!! its 80$ per litter but well worth it!( I use it on my racing bike and have no problems with brakes ever since)
Hey Gorilla

Be careful what you wish for sometimes !

I have been instructing ( and racing) with road racing clubs for 15 yrs now and have gone through many sets of brakes, tires and other parts over that period.

I have found that it is very difficult to drive a street car at the track safely and efficiently. And it is as difficult to drive a track car on the street ( and be legal and safe).

What you are trying to accomplish here is, essentially, the impossible. To have a car (or truck) that is ready for the track and also ready for the street.

I think you should consider getting a track toy (Miata or such ) that will pull 1.2 to 1.4 Gs in the turns and yet be safe, predictable and reliable. For about $8,000 to 10,000 you can do that.

A full set of StopTech or Brembo brakes for your truck will cost almost as much and the truck being heavy and tall will never come close to those numbers in the turns.

Meanwhile, not only you should replace the front rotors and calipers but also the rear set up to balance your braking ( large discs and calipers ). Don't you forget the proportioning valve as well along with reinforced brake lines. Your Tundra has "brake assist" also ( which increases the braking force in a transparent fashion). Be careful that this feature is still operating as it should.

Redesigning a complete brake set up is no laughing matter and I have seen many amateurs attempt it with rather limited success.

What makes brake rotors less subject to fading is a larger mass ( heat sink process) and larger calipers with a lot of additional ventilation to cool the whole system down.

I don't see a Tundra doing well ( and be safe) in that situation, sorry, just being honest.
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hi thankyou for you insight.
i plan on running so type of air venting directly to what i have.
i contacted EBC they advised me to do a pro-cut disc resurfacing, & the yellow pads.
which will be your best set up for both.
without going wild like you said, racing set up & street are 2 totally differnet thing's.
and can't be both done correctly together.
i just wonder how caddy's CST-V, or M3, or even WRS, etc. can do both?
i know it's a truck, & it's heavy. i'm in no way entering a road race or raing the 1/4 national's. LOL
i just wanted to know, when i get there, i can go have a hour or 2 of fun, & than drive home.
and go back to normal life.
tryed to give points. no can do.the thought is there.
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you've already upgraded your factory brake system via a bigger contact area from your wider tires. one of the best things you could do is to get even stickier tires. they won't last as long and it's the price you pay for traction. get some driving lessons from someone like Boosted27606 that can show you how to properly use your brakes on a road course as driving technique plays a huge role here. you will end up cheaper in the long run if you stay with your stock front rotors and just replace them (along with tires) while upgrading your pads, fluid, and lines. gonna need rear discs too. drilled rotors are for show. that's why you've heard of them failing. they're alright for street driving because on average they don't ever heat up like on a track.

the best advise i've seen here came from our professional driving instructor who said to get a dedicated track car because it'll allow you to enjoy your tundra on a daily basis for a longer period of time. you can trailer your car with the tundra too! track vehicle = thinner wallet. a heavier vehicle like the tundra could create an exponential effect in this area. wait... hear that... are those cash registers in the background??? cha-ching!!! i am glad you have the money to spend, brother. have lot's of fun!
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gorilla asked:

" I just wonder how Caddy's CST-V, or M3, or even WRS, etc. can do both?"

Trust me, they don't.

Serious road racers use those cars on the street and typically replace pads, rotors, brake fluid and wheels ( with race tires on ) for a week end at the track.

Sunday night, they reverse the process for the (stock) street set up.

Street tires and brake pads won't do well at the track and the hot, acidic dust released by the pads will eat the paint off the wheels. Keep in mind that the rotors might reach 1100 F quite easily and stock paint inches away do not have much of a chance for survival.

White LiteNin says:

"get some driving lessons from someone like Boosted27606 that can show you how to properly use your brakes on a road course as driving technique plays a huge role here."

Absolutely, brother ! Driving skills are often more important than power or braking ( or extra noise from a huge exhaust! ). I cannot recall how many times I have seen fast cars ( Corvettes, Vipers, Mustangs, 911s ...ect) being humbled by a slick Miata with Hoosiers tires on and a good driver at the wheel. In fact, I have many in car videos proving it.

To make a long story short, if you are looking for thrills and yet stay safe and save a few $$, buy or rent a small dedicated track car and spend a few week ends at Sebring, Daytona, Road Atlanta and a few other local tracks with some of the established car clubs who organize driving events there. ( BMWCCA, Porsche PCA, NASA ....) I have instructed with all of those and I promise you a ton of fun and a sharpening of your driving skills to boot.
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I agree with everything Boosted recommends. In fact, I've been humbled sometimes myself by well-driven and prepared Miatas. :eek:

The other thing you need to be concerned about is safety while doing high-speed lapping. I've seen cars go off-track at really high speeds and not have a happy ending. IMO, the chance of having brakes overheat or a tire blow out due to overheating in a truck is pretty high. Image approaching the end of a straight away at 100 mph+ only to find you don't have any brakes. :-O
I've chunked street tires in my car in lapping sessions before I switched to rubber that could handle the heat.

Also, you will likely find that most organized driving event holders will not allow trucks on track. There's not only the increased concern of roll-over should you go off-track sideways but also of hitting another car (yes, it happens) with your much heavier and higher vehicle.

If cost is an issue in buying another car, find a buddy in a similar situation and find a cheap track beater to share (Miata, RX7, Civic, etc.). Even a low-powered, well-prepped car will be much more fun than your truck.
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Amen, Brother !
Gorilla, you still at Al Hendrickson? I'm at Delray and I'm looking for brakes myself for my new tundra.
hi, i go there, but i don't work there.
but i can get you pads at a discount. although i haven't set up a account there.
i did it at another dealership, i belive i paid for my fronts less than 60. honestly i forgot.
i think they list for around 80.
a few months ago.
once i get my new EBC yellow, i most likely will never switch back.
i think i have about 3,000 miles on my pads.
i checked them, there almost new.
but i'm going to procut the rotors & through on the yellow pads.
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