Toyota Tundra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 1331 Posts

·
The M.F.I.C.
Joined
·
3,762 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
EDIT: There have been 300 successful completions as of 6/20/13 (see members list at the bottom of Post #1):
(147) - Plug & Play (just added the switch, no wiring needed)
(153) - Performed the wiring changes;

___________________________________________________

IMPORTANT !!! Read posts #1 & #2 completely! All the information you will need is provided in these first 2 posts! Understand that as new information comes along, I will update the information (if needed) in posts #1 & #2; So... rest assured, you don't need to read through the entire thread to get the information - it's all here (and updated) in the first 2 posts! If/When you complete the MOD, please speak-up in the thread and identify your truck Year, Configuration, and package... and whether it was Plug-and-Play or Wiring-added :tu:

___________________________________________________
This MOD adds the MPG Buttons [(aka "Drive Monitor Switch" part #84977-0C020) - the older model switch (84977-0C100) will work, but the only difference is: The "Setup" button (3rd from top) says just "Setup" on the 0C100 switch, and "Setup US/M" on the 0C020 switch]. (see 1st picture below) This will allow you to change the display up on the "Accessory Meter" which displays your clock, temperature, current MPG's (instantaneous), Average MPG's, and Distance-to-empty (miles left on tank)...located at the top/middle of your dash. This part can be found at Partznet.com or through a dealer like TRDsparks.com, usually around $75. (NOTE - Some members have found the older switch [0C100] for much cheaper than the newer switch [0C020])

This MOD WILL APPLY to GRADE, SR5, TRD Sport, TRD Off-Road (SR5 trim), Tundra T-Force, and ROCK WARRIOR model trucks that have either NO buttons on their switch (ie BLANKS) OR have only the SETUP button (which changes the temp from F to C), OR have only the SONAR and/or SETUP buttons on their switch.

This MOD will not apply to models that already have the working MPG display, (LIMITED & PLATINUM) which have the "Optitron" gauges, and have the MPG display built into their main gauge-cluster. Your accessory meter will only display the time & temp, I believe. NOTE: If you have a RockWarrior, TRD Sport, or T-Force... you'll have it easier than most... you can skip down to Post #2, "First-things-first" section, and follow the instructions. That's all you will need!
_______________________________________________________________

Disclaimer: This worked for me, so this is a "demonstration" of how I did it. Try at your own risk, as I am not responsible for any damage you cause if something goes wrong if you try this.

_______________________________________________________________

These pictures show what you'll be working with. Post #2 will have the instructions.




(This below picture is of the older switch - 0C100 - You can use either this switch, or the newer 0C020)


Go to the next post (Post #2) for Instructions.
Members that have completed the Mod so far, taken from this thread, and the original "research" thread [http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/181851-bummer-well-i-tried-hero-mpg/]:

PLUG & PLAY: -09TundraMike, teallin, Nfrerman, jtrovato, VerticalToy (Sequoia), gf2020, Bmf79, Tick, ahowudoin, DaggerDoggie, tj77, wikidoki, DariusId, Dabbs, VR200275, kCrutchley, Joshua32, LSUtigers02, BierMe, Izicc, Loppy, ogtoyfan, Bitondo-Inc, Echo6_Sierra, chedachris, kidrman, joey0909, CoastalLongbox, bucky10pt, Zitman11, Ctowle, BLACKROCK11, TundraGuy18, OC_10RockWarrior, Wickett, jGonzalez, Ak-ryda, carlbud, badbrad, shepsigkap, mattd4, cornholio, M109pilot, WYrockwarrior, boom2225, tundratrax, timmeh, Black Pearl, Nimmer32 (2 trucks), Guater, jbc69, TRD-X, bigwapitijohnny, brad2064, carlm9, Bocephus39, tigershark, Barcelona Red, Nine2Nine, 2011TundraRockWarrio, daivdepdx, dc67soul, EnigmaPlanner, Bax467, 2k2wrangler, RoadTraveler, Browndogfudge, FJYoda, LatencyMachine, lmowery, OKC_Rock_Warrior, just plain joe, rockota, NavyMB, Db8typer, City_Rider, 135pilot, chickenpro, Rocco1970, bbearfax, reservoirreb, SuperWhiteWarrior, ShoopDog, Crewmax2011, theChristianBear2001, RockWarriorTravis, USAF.2012, tors19, TRD_Brian, Cube, Kane516, Mob210, Mad_Dog, peterset9, eclipse3g, Hazells4 , TundraRockWarrior, ThreeToyota, wgreenlee1021, jkates, Progressiverain, doghart, brcompton, Jspre, Steve.Barnette, ChrisM70, homea506, JW74, MotoDave, JP8, Putnam_Dan, rope83, NotMyRealUser, MTMarine, SBfarmworkTR2, beerd, Huzer21, JP42018, gwatsontx, rambilt, keneth16, justgregg, tiger80, Sam&Jess, AmmoLord, ghamden, bmcmast, osupeterson, bucky10pt, dakotacody, bamma, GCDCAPT, philistic53, TannerBoyl, steve4700, Northwoodstoy, fiveohfanatic, Nunya53, HeroCrank, radon222, RockWarriorTRD, jgross10, TUNDRA307, argyle64

ADDED-WITH-WIRES:
-PoPo, PowerHogger, Kcs05dc, bryant03, mclerico, RIjon, martym, saki302, Sweet_Mercy, Dysan911, envelopo1, aah, firemedic74, leons1, jroth21, beergarita, 07tundra350, 06whitetsr5, OKSlim, ffearless, Codyh12345, virtuosity, tbaxl, dritchie40, Pinto, etbull, dstealth97, eyeckr, Woodpro91, JCL-5.7DC, dpoll995, akmarcd, mustang67408 (x2), firearrow, BPG5003, Sammy64 (full harness swap), HBLifgrd, TundraSlate1, adviser, esqbyday, pa2010tundra, tridacna, yotari, SparkyBee18, Woodpro91, cwhitby, browtine, ALPINE TUNDRA, Gross Papi, donald1017, Barcelona Bill, Wilfong9, Shadow Crewmax, BigBlue V, upstateNYcop, gr8White2010, TerryTundra, dpavid, majv93, will4553, SoonerCE, Tim Baxter, bigzyota, RangerBrown, LillDragun, bgpearce, thewbell, The_Stig, Leklef, Gappat1334, crvz, SoCal57Chevy, Sooner32, Spoon059, 9rider, finnbone, DHC Driver, CaliMR, evoluzione1, JRUSS, deviltundra, bennelton, chugchug, 2Trout, JonLSU, slplanner, kHuber, wdey, 1BADTOY, fj40Dave, Chasm31, Miztahfoolish, SOCALtundra, vallan3e, k47k, Leklef, 11Tundra, jaagee, htttrh, NYDEGGER, avengerhed, passfatass, wes2012, htttrh, Drejw2, beemer533, 95dcm, Jakemax, NorthernVA, Hay-Wire, steve78pugs, BlueReaperX, redtundra, arkie-tundra-man, tjc1891, tstoney, tyotayoda, Husker4Life, Kj4jaq, quality_sound, Nia4lia, Tundra8, 11Tundra, apache, kltpzyxm, tanks, breeno, RockGun, mazingmojo, dkb, Jimdandy, Motov8r, Lithous, DMF, Bamafever41, NateHanson, Afterimage, 5.7Thundra, bliss1, lakin454, 08TundraPilot, stvharv5.7, strubinator, coolvette, glubash, JT2652, ToyTundra2010, mahmer09, Ladeerman, Clean-Slate
 

·
The M.F.I.C.
Joined
·
3,762 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

NOTE: No matter which Model/Year you have, MAKE SURE YOU READ First Things First AND SECTION 1 AS THEY HAVE THE ACTUAL INSTRUCTIONS/DESCRIPTIONS FOR THE INSTALL. Then, check the headings of each section to see which one applies to you... then see the pictures & diagrams below!

So again, after you read FIRST THINGS FIRST and SECTION 1...



FIRST - things - FIRST !!!
  1. Take note of which switch is currently installed in your truck: Is it all blanks? Does it have the SETUP button but no others? Does it have the SONAR button, but no others?
  2. IF it is blank OR has just the SETUP button (and your truck does NOT have SONAR sensors in the bumpers) Purchase the Drive Monitor Switch (84977-0C020);
  3. IF the switch has JUST SONAR, purchase the Drive Monitor Switch (84977-0C090)
  4. Pop out the existing switch, insert the new switch, and see if you can now cycle through & view all the functions on the Accessory Meter. The functions are: Temp, Avg MPG, Current Instant MPG, Miles left on Tank, None. Understand that Avg MPG & Current Instant MPG may be blank until you're in motion.
  5. Some trucks may already be pre-wired so that the new switch is a direct plug-and-play, and nothing else is needed. This has worked on every RockWarrior, TRD Sport, and T-Force that I've heard try... literally you're up-and-running in 30 seconds or less.

    * If the new switch works, then you're done! If not, take note of how many wires are at the back of the switch, then refer to the sections below.
Always remember... *** REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL WHILE PERFORMING ALL WIRING! ***


-------------------------------------------------------------​


2007-2010 trucks, refer to Sections 1-4;............ 2011+ trucks, refer to Section 5
But, everyone needs to read Section 1 as it has the main instructions for the general install...)​


SECTION 1: If you have all 8 wires plugged into your blank switch. (see bottom for both 6 & 5 wire instructions)

  1. Remove the Driver's side Kick Panel;
  2. Remove the lower dash piece; there are 2 bolts to remove (see diagram);
  3. Remove upper dash piece (main piece); This pops out with tension clips - no bolts to unscrew here...(Note) You'll have to unplug the JL1 harness, and another harness on the right side to pull this dash piece off. Also, you'll have to pull off the "dust-cover" that connects just above the steering wheel. Then remove the piece and set it off to the side.
  4. Remove the gauge cluster (4 bolts), and pull out the J28 harness from the back. There's also a plastic tie holding the J28 wire-harness to the gauge cluster. Carefully cut the band so that you can remove the harness.
  5. Identify the necessary pins on the J28 & JL1 harnesses. You will be connecting two total wires; 1 goes from J28 pin #28 TO JL1 pin #17. The 2nd goes from J28 pin #30 TO JL1 pin #19. (In some rare cases, you may also have to run a 3rd wire from J28 pin #29 TO JL1 pin #20)
  6. Using 18 gauge wire, cut yourself two 30" long pieces, and remove approx 2" of the sheathing from each end. Using pliers, carefully bend the ends over in half - you'll be stuffing this into the wire-connectors.
    NOTE: I'm a cheap-a$$ so I didn't purchase the actual Pins that plug directly into these harnesses. If you want to use them and technically "do it proper" you can get the pins from several sources. For example, you can purchase another harness from Sparks or Partznet, then pull the pins from that harness and use them here... or you can get the pins from TYCO website. However, stuffing them works just fine as long as everything is secure.
  7. Run the 2 wires behind the dash, following the same path as the harness from J28, then stuff the wires into the corresponding harnesses. Make sure they're nice and tight, and get them in as far as possible. I used 18gauge wire because it was the perfect size to "double-up" by folding over --- it makes a nice, tight seal.
    NOTE: When inserting the wires, I positioned it into the harness so that the leading edge (very tip, pointing back upwards now because of the bend) was towards the outside - that way, I could use my needle-nose pliers to "pinch" and essentially "push" the wire further into the harness. Hope that makes sense...
  8. After all your connections are tight, tape (with electrical tape of course) the new wires closely & tightly to the existing wires in the harness (you don't want them coming loose). Also, tape the wires to the main harness coming out of the J28 connector, as they should follow that harness behind the dash & down to JL1 anyhow.
  9. At this point, you're done... now just put everything back together. Start by plugging the J28 connector back into the gauges, then bolt that back in. Then connect the JL1 harness to the main dash piece (don't forget to re-connect the unknown harness on the right side, as well as the new Drive Monitor Switch wires).
  10. Now that you have the wires re-connected (and before you bolt all the dash pieces back), go ahead and re-attach your Negative battery cable, turn on the truck, and make sure your new buttons are working. Pressing the "Info" button should cycle through the functions on the Accessory Meter screen. Keep in mind that since you're not moving, your MPG's should read ZERO at this point.
    NOTE: If it's NOT working, it's possible that you didn't seat the J28 or JL1 harness all the way into their connectors... this happened to me, as I didn't seat the J28 connector all the way into the gauges. Push them babies in till they click into place!
  11. If it's working, put everything back together and enjoy your new switches! (if not, PM me and we'll try to figure it out)
*******************************************************

SECTION 2: IF YOU HAVE 6 WIRES AT THE "drive monitor switch" HARNESS

If you have only 6 wires going into the switch, no problem. Most likely you're missing the wires to pins #2 (Info button) & #3 (Select/Reset button).

Instead of using the JL1 connector, you'll only have to run wires from the switch harness to the J28 connector. (This is because if the truck was pre-wired with 8-wires, the 2 missing wires would have run from the Drive Monitor Switch to the JL1 Conector). The "Section 1" directions will basically be the same, but here's the order:

  1. Connect "Drive Monitor Switch" pin #2 to J28 pin #28
  2. Connect "Drive Monitor Switch" pin #3 to J28 pin #30
This should be all you need... test to see if it works.

*****************************************************

SECTION 3: IF YOU HAVE 5-WIRES AT THE "drive monitor switch" HARNESS:

Same directions as the 6-wire section, however, you're ALSO missing pin #4 (the "Setup - US/M" button), so here's the additional wire you'll run:

  1. Connect "Drive Monitor Switch" pin #4 to J28 pin #29
  2. You may also have to run a wire from J28 pin #31 to K20 (plugs into the Accessory Meter) pin #10. This applies if you don't already get a "Temp" reading on the Accessory meter, and this wire will bring the data to the Accessory meter.
  3. Additionally, you may need to bring a power source to the data side of the Accessory Meter. To do this, you'll need to run a switched 12v+ wire (power comes on with Acc - tap from the radio or other switch 12v+ source) to K20 pin #23
NOTE If you complete this MOD and find that you're still not getting a display up on the Accessory Meter, including viewing or changing the Temp, it's possible that you have the base-level Accessory Meter, which only displays the clock (this seems to be found with the BZ option, which is more of a work-truck/item delete option). In this case, you may have to purchase an upgraded Meter. The part number for the correct meter appears to be 83290-0C090. Please see the below (3A) instructions to add the Accessory Meter (Special thanks to kHuber, mclerico and mustang67408 for figuring this out)

*********************************************************

---SECTION 3a: IF YOU NEED TO ADD A NEW ACCESSORY METER:
Please see this post: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/192965-official-how-add-mpg-buttons-thread-54/#post1786203

*********************************************************

SECTION 4: If your truck currently has the SONAR... but your switch only has the SONAR button (the bottom one)... then it appears that the correct switch you'll need is 84977-0C030 (OR the newer replacement switch, 84977-0C090). All other instructions should apply (refer to 8-wire, 6-wire, or 5-wire guides).

*********************************************************

SECTION 5: 2011+ TRUCKS (Make sure you've read the SECTION 1 general instructions)

It appears that Toyota has changed the wiring arrangement slightly for the newer trucks. ALSO, it appears that they have "pre-wired" more trucks than in the previous years. RockWarrior trucks are still pre-wired to be Plug-and-Play, but many of the standard 4x4 trucks are also Plug-and-Play. If you try the switch first, and it does NOT work as Plug-and-Play, you will do the following:

*IF YOU HAVE 8-WIRES AT THE "DRIVE MONITOR SWITCH" HARNESS:

  1. Connect J28 Pin #28 to JL1 Pin #17
  2. Connect J28 Pin #30 to JL1 Pin #19
*IF YOU HAVE 6-WIRES AT THE "DRIVE MONITOR SWITCH" HARNESS:

  1. Connect "Drive Monitor Switch" Pin #2 to JL1 Pin #17
  2. Connect "Drive Monitor Switch" Pin #3 to JL1 Pin #19
*If YOU FIND THAT THERE ARE NO WIRES AT THE CORRESPONDING PINS ON JL1:

This means that you are one of the few reported cases of a 2011+ model having different wiring. You can still make this work, but here's what you'll do:
  1. Connect "Drive Monitor Switch" Pin #2 to J28 Pin #28
  2. Connect "Drive Monitor Switch" Pin #3 to J28 Pin #30
    SEE DIAGRAM FOR 2007-2010 6-WIRE INSTALL

***OPTIONAL WIRING CHOICE***

Instead of adding those wires, you can "recycle" two of the existing wires that are already at the harneses!

At the Drive Monitor switch, pull the wires/pins from slots 7 (purple) and 8 (blue). Move them to the blank slots in the connector, Purple to #2, and Blue to #3. At the JL1-Connector, disconnect the 2-sides of the connector. On the FEMALE side, remove the Blue wire (Pin #4) and move it to Pin #19. Remove the Purple wire (Pin #5) and move it to #17. This should be all you need!

Thanks to dpoll995 for this info!


*********************************************************
ORDERING THE PROPER PINS/HARNESSES:

If you don't want to do the fold-n-stuff method, and would rather "do-it-proper" by using factory pins/harnesses, members have reported the following:

  1. J28 Pins only: Part #8299812870. Partznet has them for $11.54/ea (you'll need 2)
  2. JL1 Pins only: Part #8299824290.... $11.55/ea (you'll need 2)
  3. 6-wire Switch-harness: Part #821430C020 .... $35.69
  4. Complete Harness from JL1 to entire dash (includes 8-wire Switch-Harness): Part #821430C030. $53.89
  5. Drive-Monitor Switch Pins only: Tyco Part #175265-1. I think they're about $.08/ea... I'm not exactly sure where to get them, but some members have purchased them. I don't think you can buy them in quantities of less than 100... but someone in this thread may have extras. (just post a request).
  6. Drive-Monitor Switch - you can also re-use the pins from #7 & #8 (which are for sonar) and use them for #2 & #3, if of course you don't have sonar equipped...
Also, some members have been able to pull pins/harnesses from donor vehicles at junkyards.

EDIT: Member Artbran discovered that computer internal wires will directly fit, and lock into, the harness. He stated that he has a large supply of them for those who need them. So, please contact him if needed.
*********************************************************

TROUBLESHOOTING: Several members have performed the wiring and then said it didn't work... Once they went back and double-checked their wiring connections, they found they weren't seated properly. Once they addressed that, the mod worked! Make sure you check & double-check your connections! Some members have had luck soldering the wire into the harness --- so that's another option to get a better connection.

*********************************************************
WIRING INSTRUCTION/PICTURES BELOW
*********************************************************
WIRING DIAGRAMS




Thanks to dpoll995 for finding the below diagram!

INSTALLATION PICTURES





























 

·
Mark it eight, Dude...
Joined
·
4,373 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Nice write up popo. Points to you if i can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
420 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Nice job, how do the wires go in the JL1 connector?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Nice F'N write up! Points Sent!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,641 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Abasolutely excellent post!!!! And kudos to all those who helped!!! I'd give points out if I could. Hey, this is what it is all about!!!!!:tu::tu::D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
733 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Awesome write up!! But I would like to add to this that some trucks have only 6 wires going into Drive Monitor Switch. This means that you will have to bypass JL1 completely and go straight to the Drive Monitor Switch. All the processes expressed in this mod will be the same but you have to take the two added J28 wires directly to the Drive Monitor Switch.


Great job popo :first:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,792 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
733 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Googled that part # 84977-0C010 looks like they are the only site that has that part.
As far as I know all of them function the same. 99% sure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,792 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Googled that part # 84977-0C010 looks like they are the only site that has that part.
As far as I know all of them function the same. 99% sure
Sparks has it.
Sparks Toyota-Scion
**EDIT**
Link breaks when I try to link to the part.
Part Number: 849770C010 List Price Core Price Your Price
Electrical - Instruments & gauges - Driver information center - Switch Switch, tundra, drive monitor control, w/o park assist, w/o power seat package 2007 - 2008
$62.96 $0.00 $50.37

I did a search for p/n 849770C010 on Sparks website and came up with a switch for $50.37.

This is a link to the shopping cart after placing the part in it...
http://www.trademotion.com/shoppingcart/index.cfm?action=viewCart&siteid=214631&showheader=true&retVal=index.cfm?siteid=214631 **EDIT**
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
733 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Stand corrected! Sorry bout that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,792 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Stand corrected! Sorry bout that
I wonder if one of the guys at TRDSparks could pull the part and let us know if it will work. I cannot find a pic of the thing, but I'm pretty sure this is the animal. Why would it matter if we had pwr seats? This switch specifies no pwr seats and no park assist. I have neither so that's not a problem.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
733 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

I actually read somewhere that 849770C010 was replaced by 849770C020 not sure why maybe sparks will know.
 

·
The M.F.I.C.
Joined
·
3,762 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

I'm waiting on a couple responses for specifics b4 I update Post #2 with the directions for the 6-wire install.... but I'm aware that it's a slightly different process, and I'll update it as soon as I can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Thank you for the very informative post. I was planning on taking pics and doing a write up when i do it, but now i guess i wont have to. Very informative, great pics, thanks!
 

·
The M.F.I.C.
Joined
·
3,762 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Instructions (POST #2) updated with info for 6-wire & 5-wire applications.

Also - I discovered that the only difference between the older switch (84977-0C100) and the newer switch (84977-0C020) is that the "Setup" button (3rd down from top) says "Setup" on the 0C100 button, and "Setup US/M" on the 0C020 button. FYI (also updated to original post)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
846 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

nice job on the write up bro!! I know you have been at this project for a while. Glad you finally got'er done! Again good job!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Re: The Official "How to add MPG buttons" thread (some conditions may apply)

Instructions (POST #2) updated with info for 6-wire & 5-wire applications.

Also - I discovered that the only difference between the older switch (84977-0C100) and the newer switch (84977-0C020) is that the "Setup" button (3rd down from top) says "Setup" on the 0C100 button, and "Setup US/M" on the 0C020 button. FYI (also updated to original post)
Some additional things I forgot to include in my PM to popo2239.

I had to replace my acc. meter, and I had 8 wires at the switch, but needed 3 wires from JL1 to J28 (as I had NO actual buttons at the drive monitor switch). Sorry for the incomplete PM.

Thank,
Mike
 
1 - 20 of 1331 Posts
About this Discussion
1.3K Replies
492 Participants
jpm.cuisine
Toyota Tundra Forums
Tundra Solutions Forum - the best community to talk, mods, price, repair and research your Toyota!
Full Forum Listing
Top