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Let me preface this build with a strong recommendation that you dont try this yourself.
Many of the items shown are deceptively easy looking but in fact will require tools, skills and money that a few pictures and weak explanation dont always convey.

I will however try and explain the real world cost, and show the problems that would make this operation less problematic for you.

If you decide to do anything you see here dont blame me if you blow your motor to s**t. (I cant be responsible for some numb-nuts trying to run just a few PSI more). And I WILL laugh at you if you do build a turbo setup from this example and blow your motor.

Your warned.


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March 15th:

I had originally considered doing a top mount turbo by using a "U" bend behind the cats, routing the pipe to the air box area and making a bracket to support the flange-turbo. This would be ideal to keep the oil drain higher then the oil level and eliminating the need for a scavenging pump and keeping the turbo close to the intercooler-intake.

This idea would of been great....but it is not practical. Because the R&L pipes would be combined into a "Y" collector for a single turbo, would dictate (IMO) about a 3" ID pipe that would have to be routed back up and around any number of structural-engine components (*or even 2 smaller pipes up each side for a true twin turbo). After assesment the clearance needed to pull this off wasnt going to happen (open for suggstions if you think you know a way).

Because of the clearance issues I am doing a single low mount turbo, located in the area where the rear cats sit OEM.

I will look at the up pipe routing further but looks like it will go up the outside of the frame rail, in the wheel well and up through a rubber flap designed to keep water out of the engine bay from the wheel. I dont foresee any clearance issues with OEM tire sizes at hard right turns (*suspension travel was taken in account)....but anything larger then OEM...and... it may rub (bfd anyway, just dont turn hard right).

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You will need a boost gauge. This is where my will be installed. I installed this gauge but the range is clearly too high. In truth this engine only needs 6 psi...I will be running 8 but NO more....it just doesnt need it (*or be able to take it in stock form)....and as long as its faster then my wifes BMW I dont give a s**t. 8 psi, along with a few other things I will be doing along with way should easily get me in the 550 HP range I am targeting.



Gauge cost is all over the place.
This 60 psi analog is about 55$, but have seen suitable gauges for 30ish.
I will be using innovate for my data logging and will likely use their gauge.
If you do a turbo system *I insist on a data logger. I already have a few loggers but expect a minimum of 350$ for a basic set up from any manufacture. This is typically NOT included with aftermarket kits so you can consider this if you want to compare this DIY with the TRD supercharger. Will be logging EGT/ boost psi/ AIT and FP.

**this is one element where people decide to do this and leave the DL out of the their build 'cause they are trying to go cheap, and subsequently blow there motors. Buy a GD DL.


March 16th:

Went to a custom exhaust shop here in Portland to get a Y and a few bends. They liked the idea of what I was doing and quoted me a price I couldnt refuse. They are going to remove the rear cats, do the bends (routing the turbo justified right), connect them to the Y collector.....and build the dump pipes for the gate and turbo.....for $140 (including parts, less the V-band flanges (gate and dump), turbo flange (T4). I only have to bring in the T4 flange so they can find the best 2-1 "Y" to most closely represent the flange size.

After they find the best size I will take it home and weld the flanges (turbo AND wastegate).

Silly *****es dont know they will be building my up pipe and intercooling pipes as well.
(I did my own for my race car out of 2.5" copper....but....ya know....very different bird)



*******BUILD NOTE*******

Turbos are like women.....choose one you can live with if you are going to marry her.
~meaning:

If a turbo is rated at 1000 HP its a bad f~ing idea to put it on an engine thats only going to make 5-6 hun. The turbo I am using is rated at 600HP and I still think its too big. If you go too large you will loose compressor efficiency and they 800-1000+ HP turbo wont spool due to lack of volume and you will loose HP and spool times. Every stupid *** kid thinks they want the biggest GD turbo 'cause that makes the most HP. Dont be one of these people.

Intercoolers are the same as above. If you have an intercooler too large it will have a pressure drop internally, the air flow slows through the intercooler core, the flow will become laminar (non turbulent) and the efficiency of the cooler drop. This will result in HIGHER intake temps and blown motors.

Choose components that are closest to the HP you will be running.

*this is another place where people will not listen and blow up their motors. Someone is going to run without an intercooler, use one they had laying around (or ebay) or run a 2000HP unit (cause bigger is always better, right!).


I will be using Precision Turbos PT500 or PT750. This is a liquid to air intercooler, and I chose LTA because its easier to find locations for the cooler and heat exchanger as apposed to having a large core dependent on location for flow.

Choose your intercooler carefully.

~JH
 

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Are you going to run this setup at pir??? If you are I would love to meet up and watch you race.
 

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In like fin
 

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Seems like this is going to be good and well thought out quality build.

To Bobbyd - Don't know why you neccessairly wish you had the 5.7 to try this on. I think it owuld be neat to see what a Turbo 4.6 or 4.7 would do... Keep in mind us 5.7 owners that crave more HP can always save up and buy the SC kit from TRD and still have a motor/tranny warranty... Unfortunately, the smaller V8's (v6's too!) are out luck so this should REALLY interest those folks that want more power.

I'm still a HP junkie/motorhead at heart, but past the phase where I would even consider doing something like this...

PLEASE keep us posted.
 

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Would love to see the set up and results.
You have some cojones man to do something like that!:tu:
 

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I'll outright say that I'm a turbo boob...
But after reading your notes... Would running a dual low boost/fast spooling turbines be any more desirable?
Or even a dual inline setup?

Sorry if we go off topic... I like to learn and stuff...

I can't wait to see what you come with either way... I just wish we had more people like you, that are willing to sacrifice a block... I'm very curious to see what this engine is capable of and it's durability...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Are you going to run this setup at pir??? If you are I would love to meet up and watch you race.
No PIR for me with the truck. I do have a couple hayabusas (one NA, one turbo) that I may run one day. I am thick as thieves with some big players in the NWDBA and they keep trying to talk me into running the bikes.

The truck is just to mess with guys with big muffler hondas. I am keeping the wheels stock, no stickers, debadging the 5.7 and trying to keep everything as stock as possible. Funny thing is that the truck already has the TRD intake and a flowmaster cat back and being a 4X2 is already deceptively fast....at least from the prospective of the guy trying who gets in the "soon to merge" outside lane to blast by a slow white truck.


But after reading your notes... Would running a dual low boost/fast spooling turbines be any more desirable?
Or even a dual inline setup?

Sorry if we go off topic... I like to learn and stuff...

I can't wait to see what you come with either way... I just wish we had more people like you, that are willing to sacrifice a block... I'm very curious to see what this engine is capable of and it's durability...
I dont mean to disappoint but I am not willing to sacrifice a block!!!!

My HP goals are not much over what the TRD supercharger is rated at, and I dont intend on pushing the limits of HP. I am a firm believer that anything much past the TRD level will require a substantial investment in the motor.

This is still going to be a daily driver.



And to answer the twin turbo questions:

2 doesnt mean better.....sure its cool to have 2 turbos but I have not seen many installs that 1 turbo properly matched to the performance goals/displacement wouldnt be just a good (or better) then 2 (some may argue with this).

I mentioned you shouldnt go too large....well same applies to too small. If you go to small the compressor stage will max out and become restrictive to OEM HP, meaning you will loose HP by limiting the amount of air volume that can go into the intake. THis is why the boat blower electric superchargers cause a loss in HP...even though they have a fan blowing forward air.
Too small and the turbine will max out on the exhaust causing higher pressures in the manifold. THis will back the exhaust back into the motor. (bananas in the tail pipe affect).

Plus multiple turbos means more plumbing, multiple gates, multiple oil lines and multiple problems.

I would do it just because.....doesnt mean its better.

~JH
 

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Okay, so let's get-her-done !!! I've been following your turbo threads anxiously... Lets go!
 

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Dude, I'm with ya! I'm not remotely interested in getting to a 1000hp, but I sure would like to get it up to 500-600hp, that would be awesome! I'm waiting to see how this all comes together!! Thanks for blazing the trail!
 

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Subscribing!!!!
 

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I know that when people get the supercharger Toyota re maps the ECM. How are you going to do this with a custom setup? I always hear that Toyota locks up the codes so everyone that wants aftermarket is out of luck. How are you going to tune that beast?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I know that when people get the supercharger Toyota re maps the ECM. How are you going to do this with a custom setup? I always hear that Toyota locks up the codes so everyone that wants aftermarket is out of luck. How are you going to tune that beast?
I am willing to explore other options but I am very comfortable with my current piggy ecus I use on my race motors.
In essence the OEM ECU works fine for the OEM FI system...why mess with it? You run the risk of maxing out the duity cycle of the injectors, have to figure out how to change the OEM fuel pressure regulator (and other crap).

Basically a piggy back ECU allows the motor to run off its OEM ecu and fi, and with use of a MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure) as soon as the piggy back starts seeing boost it begins to fire secondary injectors to add the additional fuel....and its the secondaries that are tuned. (remember with more HP we need more fuel....never a need to pull fuel out of an OEM map)

Sounds complicated.....this ironically is the easiest part of the whole deal. I see many people have reservations about FI. As a rule they are old schoolers and prefer changing jet sizes on a holly. FI is easy, by concept and application.....and really not too expensive.

I use Microtech ECUs, but their are many others. Again I am open for tuning suggestions....but I know this method will work just fine.


Here is some info and resources on piggy back ECUs:

Piggy-back Fuel Controllers :: Engine Tuning Resources & Tips.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
March 17th:

Fitment and clearance.....



Up pipe routing was a big concern....there is a ton going on both sides of the motor and very little engine to frame clearance for anything.

You can see from this pic there is tons of room for tire clearance. This is a 3" pipe and will work fine for my HP requirements. The pic is a bit deceptive.....this is at full right turn and there is room for 2" more tire....or....if someone was wanting to go larger on the up...you could easily do a 4". I will use a silicone 90 to route immediately under the frame. It still will be far from the lowest part of the vehicle and should be invisible unless you have massive lift.

For off roading a person may want to do a protection plate....I may anyway....after all whats the worst that can happen if you punch a hole in your up pipe????? -----Try over spooling your turbo to the point it explodes sending bits of hardened impeller into the intake and destroying your motor....no joke.

On second thought....I will make a protection plate!!!!



I will have to relo the break line.....no biggie.

I highlighted the seam where they spot welded the fender halves together. I may take my die grinder and remove some stock of the side. This would be a must if you intend on running a 4" up pipe. Dont be too afraid of squeezing down a pipe a bit to give a little more clearance...its not a perfect world with this truck. You should have a minimum of .5" clearance to anything its not mounted firmly to. You will have squeaks if you dont have the clearance.




Here you can see the pipe will fit (however its close). Just below the pipe you can see the "soft flap" that the pipe will go through.

So far...no problems....again the truck is not being easy but not impossible. (like most women) LOL.

~JH
 

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The TRD Supercharger comes with larger injectors, a new fuel pump, and the mass air flow meter tube grows significantly. The flash from a TIS Computer of course is to incorporate all of these items. Why go for the piggy back when a tune for the stock efi system exists?
 

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Subscribing.

"2X World land speed record holder" --- Care to elaborate?
 
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