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Discussion Starter #1
anyone heard of this?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
do they get louder as the RPM's increase!? i really thought that i had cracked manifolds they are so loud
 

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I have the same year and model tundra and my injectors tick as well but not as loud as your syaing. my truck has 126000 miles on it too.
 

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I hear that ticking as well. I notice it more when I first start my truck and accelerate. I thought that it was a cracked manifold and I was going to replace them with JBA headers. Does anyone know how difficult ot it is to replace them?
 

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well th only 2 types of headers i have heard of for tundras are Gibson and JBA. (that are any good) i actually went to a exhaust shop and the guy said JBA's are an easy install. Just the labor for install was $250 he said. I am still thinking about it!!
and the ticking is bad on my truck or i am just too picky!
i took the truck to the stealer and they said they were not crack and tried to blame it on my muffler that has less that 5k miles!
 

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...i took the truck to the stealer and they said they were not crack and tried to blame it on my muffler that has less that 5k miles!
Ask the dealer if you have the stocks replaced by another shop and the stockers has a crack in them, will they pay for the labor it cost you to install the JBA's? Add $250 is a fair price for the labor.

I hear that ticking as well. I notice it more when I first start my truck and accelerate. I thought that it was a cracked manifold and I was going to replace them with JBA headers. Does anyone know how difficult ot it is to replace them?
It's an all day job. Hardest bolts to get to are the ones behind the motor mounts. For those either get different types of extensions or the other option is to secure the motor and remove the motor mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
FYI....i was quoted 1300 to place the injectors!:eek:
 

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Injectors tick, but I don't think they tick as loud as what you seem to be describing. There's at least three things that can/do tick on these motors: 1) Injectors- should be relatively quiet. 2) Cam followers- shim and bucket design means there's a gap between the cam and the follower, especially when cold. When properly adjusted, should be relatively quiet, but not as quiet as a hydraulic follower setup. 3) Exhaust manifold leak at flange or cracked pipe.

You can pick up a cheap automotive stethoscope and probe around a bit. Take of the metal probe and just listen through the tube when working with exhaust leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the mechanic i went to checked everything by placing a rubber hose onto everything and would listen to find the ticking! pulled the vaccum hose off the rocker cover and was dead quiet, but put it on each injector and they tick like nothing else. he did all this while i was standing there. he even had this smoke machine he put in my exhaust to check for leaks and there was nothing! just seems too loud to be injectors
 

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Ok, Shall36, let me pick your brain.

I have the dreaded Tundra Tick, but it's only present when cold & is far worse when under a load (while cold). Which of your three causes would you blame for that?

BTW, how hard is it to adjust cam followers? (with better parenting, would they be cam leaders??):rolleyes:
 

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I had the tick until I moved the engine ground wire from the firewall to the power steering bracket.
Why would moving the ground wire get rid of your tick?
 

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Ok, Shall36, let me pick your brain.

I have the dreaded Tundra Tick, but it's only present when cold & is far worse when under a load (while cold). Which of your three causes would you blame for that?

BTW, how hard is it to adjust cam followers? (with better parenting, would they be cam leaders??):rolleyes:
Hmmm...Let's see....

It could be the exhaust flange gasket. As the truck heats up, the flange and the head will expand and potentially close any gaps. Under load, you have more exhaust coming out, hence more noise.

A cold solid valve train will make noise. The FSM is using the term "lifters" instead of "followers". Kind of funny since the "lifters" are pushing the valve down instead of a cam-in-block arrangement where the lifter moves up on the camshaft. Anywhoooo....The cam rests on top of the lifter. The lifter rests on top of a shim. The shim rest on top of the valve stem. As the valvetrain heats up, all of those pieces will expand at a predictable rate. The valve stem will get longer. If you don't leave some gap between these components and the camshaft when things are cold, you'll end up with valves hanging open when things are hot.

To answer your question about the valve adjustments, you have to pull the camshafts. Sooooo....:eek: See attached FSM excerpt.

My guess is that you have a leaking exhaust. Either it's leaking between the head and exhaust flange or it has a crack.
 

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anyone heard of this?
Had it on a Saturn, but only heard it after I removed the stock airbox and replaced with a chromed metal intake and a foam type (cone) air filter. The ticking at partial throttle was normal for this car. At WOT the injectors stopped cycling and were open all the time. I never heard until I changed the intake. The guys in the Saturn NG said it was normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
so what are some solutions to maybe make the ticking not as loud? i want to know more about moving the ground!! how would that make a difference? but if it did, its worth a try!
 

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I purchased my 2001 recently & never heard the ticking noise until I did some maintanence to it. Do you think any of the things I've did below would contribute to the ticking issue?

Engine oil chgd to Amsoil 0w-30
Spark Plugs chgd
Timing Belt & water pump replaced
serpentine replaced
Trueflow air filter


This noise is driving #$*(#(*$$#$$#$%#(#$%()$
 
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