Toyota Tundra Forums banner

Timing belt changed

1 reading
3.4K views 17 replies 13 participants last post by  4doorsplus  
#1 ·
I was getting close to that time when the timing belt had to be changed.

Toyota charged me almost $500.00 including taxes.

A private garage was going to charge about the same, he said he'd change the other belts too while he was at it, but I'd have to wait a week.

Toyota said they could do it today, so rather than wait, I got it done.

Why couldn't Toyota have simply put a timing chain into the 4.7?
 
#5 ·
It also seems rather odd to me that they stuck with the belt for so long on this engine....The 4.7 came out in 2000 I believe...All the other small v8s around were using chains at that time... It looks like when they upgraded to the VVT and other improvements through the years, they would have switched it to a chain....I guess they put most of there engineering resources into the development of the 5.7... I dont look forward to having to spend that money when the time comes...It will be even more by then...
 
#6 ·
This is a dead horse that gets beat a lot!

Chains and belts each have their advantages. Belts are nice and quiet...chains have a longer service life (but are no where near lifetime). My guess is that when the 4.6L Ford owners have to change a chain (if they actually keep their trucks for 250K or so), it's going to cost a lot.

Call me old fashioned, but I prefer a single cam pushrod motor...I don't see the need for 4 cam v-8s in truck applications. But, I didn't let that keep me from buying a Tundra.

Think of it this way, the $500 you spend on a timing belt every 90K miles is nothing compared to what the domestic guys spend on repairs in that same amount of time!
 
#8 ·
This is a dead horse that gets beat a lot!

Chains and belts each have their advantages. Belts are nice and quiet...chains have a longer service life (but are no where near lifetime). My guess is that when the 4.6L Ford owners have to change a chain (if they actually keep their trucks for 250K or so), it's going to cost a lot.

Call me old fashioned, but I prefer a single cam pushrod motor...I don't see the need for 4 cam v-8s in truck applications. But, I didn't let that keep me from buying a Tundra.

Think of it this way, the $500 you spend on a timing belt every 90K miles is nothing compared to what the domestic guys spend on repairs in that same amount of time!
This is so true,

figure the price of a few alternators, starters and possibly a transmission and a timing belt every 90,000 is no issue.

Just plan ahead and put it in the budget!

Our local toyota/nissan independent shop charges about $350 vs $650 for a timing belt/water pump job.
 
#9 ·
Here are pros and cons about belts and chains, as I posted about a year ago when I changed my belt:

Belt

Pro

It is inexpensive.

It is outside the engine, such that the debris caused by wear is not deposited in the engine oil, where it can cause further wear.

It is outside the engine and is light weight, such that the damage it may cause during failure (in a non-interference engine) is minimized, and often is zero. Been there, seen that, in a friend's 1986 Camry 4-cylinder.

It is light weight, such that the engine is more efficient, in that accelerating to a higher RPM requires investing less kinetic energy in the belt than it would in a chain. This helps fuel economy, making it less difficult, other things being equal, to satisfy CAFE standards.

It is quiet and, assuming it doesn't fail, reliable.

It typically doesn't stretch noticeably over its useful life.

Its replacement part cost is low, much lower than a chain.

Its replacement labor cost, due to the time required, can be low, depending on the engine design, for example the 4 cylinder Camry or the 4 cylinder Volvo, both of the 1980's.

Con

It requires periodic replacement, and the replacement period is relatively short, typically 40K to 90K miles.

Its replacement labor cost, due to the time required, can be high, depending on the engine design, for example the 4.7L I-Force V8.

Chain

Pro

It is long-lived.

It is usually quiet and, assuming it doesn't fail, reliable.

Con

It is expensive, at least more expensive than a belt.

It is inside the engine, such that the debris caused by wear is deposited in the engine oil, where it can cause further wear. Considering that it is composed of hundreds of tiny pieces which move against each other with every crankshaft revolution, the potential for shedding wear particles, especially during a break-in period, is relatively high.

It is inside the engine and is heavy weight, such that the damage it may cause during failure (even in a non-interference engine) is maximized, and often is catastrophic. The kinetic energy of the moving chain is high, as is its mass, and so stopping the moving chain when it fails can actually break the engine block. Been there, seen that.

It is heavy weight, such that the engine is less efficient, in that accelerating to a higher RPM requires investing more kinetic energy in the chain than it would in a belt. This hurts fuel economy, making it more difficult, other things being equal, to satisfy CAFE standards.

It requires periodic replacement, even though the replacement period is relatively long, often 200K miles or more. Chains wear and don't last forever.

It typically stretches noticeably over its useful life, thereby affecting valve timing toward the end of its life.

Its replacement part cost is high, much higher than a belt.

Its replacement labor cost, due to the time required, can be high, depending on the engine design, for example the 5.7L I-Force V8.

So:

Pick one.

I prefer a belt.

I have changed belts in both my Tundra (once) and my wife's previous car (twice), a 1986 Camry. The Tundra took me 10 hours, and the Camry took about 1 1/2 hours the first time, about one hour the second.

What I prefer about it is two things: 1) I very much like the fact that it is not an internal engine part, meaning nothing it does can put contaminants into the oil. A chain, with its hundreds of moving parts in rubbing contact with each other, is just the opposite; and, 2) I very much like that it makes the engine more efficient, as there is simply less mass for the engine to speed up and slow down as it runs.

My bottom line is, it works well, it has advantages, and I accept the maintenance penalty involved.

Your mileage my vary.

Addendum added today:

Don't discount the fact that the belt is external to the engine block, so it doesn't deposit wear particles in the engine oil, as chains do. The 4.7L V8 apparently is a very long-lived engine, and likely this is a big reason why. The most important item in a recipe for long-lived engines is keep the oil clean, and not putting crud in the oil is a big help.

I stated above that it took me 10 hours to change the belt in my Tundra. Kindly don't jump to the conclusion that it is a horrible, time-consuming job. It isn't.

My brother's employer owns and runs a magnificent auto service shop. He changed the belt in his Tundra (borrowing my crankshaft pulley SST to do so) and it took him only four hours. The differences are: 1) he makes a living at such things, so for him, time is money; 2) I am retired, so I take frequent naps and such, as how long it takes isn't important; and, 3) I typically do slow, meticulous work, so it often takes me a long time.

Seriously, this is an easy job. Just like eating an elephant, do it one easy bite at a time.
 
#13 ·
I to was worried about tackling the timing belt job myself. I did it last winter and it wasn't to bad. Just give yourself plenty of time. The crank pulley gave me the most problem getting it off. All the other steps from my manual were easy to follow. The truck ran great afterwards.
 
#15 ·
make sure they changed the tensioner..look in the parts write up. And the water pump. Which I doubt at that price. I always make them put a water pump on at no labor charge...they have to take it off anyways.
 
#16 ·
I always make them put a water pump on at no labor charge...they have to take it off anyways.
actually, doing just the timing belt does not require taking off the waterpump. BUT, once the timing belt is off, it sure is a good idea to replace it since you are already there, rather than putting everything back together and 10K later it starts to leak. another timing belt job.

the tensioner on the other hand yes, it needs to come off anyways to get to the belt, so labor should be free for the tensioner.
 
#17 ·
Hey DJ,

Thank you so much for the information. I really learned a lot. One of the reasons that I like this forum so much.

Thanks Rich
 
#18 ·
I'm new here - my first Tundra - my garage and my buddies - we do all our own engine work- so changing a timing belt is no issue- So I'll spend the $500 or so on some Audio mods. Anyone have a good set up for a subwoofer / Amp package under the rear seat- I'm looking at either two 8" subs or a single 10" set up -thanks- No Pics yet but there coming. Second question- X-Liner sprayin Bedlner - any info on $$ what shops charge.