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I've been having a stutter from the engine while idling in gear and have replaced plugs & coils to no avail. I did some research and have come to the conclusion that my timing belt could have slipped. I would think this to be unlikely but I am approaching 250k miles and to my knowledge the timing belt has never been replaced. I've bought the Gates TCKWP298 timing belt kit and will be working on it this weekend. I'll only have 2 days home from college to get the entire job done. Does anyone have any pointers? And is it possible to change the timing belt without removing the A/C compressor? I'm also not certain about lining the belt up. I know the mark on each pulley should line up with the I mark, but I've seen some people line up the marks on the belt with whichever letter is to the side of the I, while others line them up with the same I mark as the pulley. Anyone have any insight on this? Thanks in advance.
 

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You Tube, 1A Auto three-part videos. Watch, make a step-by-step check list, bag and tag all bolts and stuff as you remove them, stack parts neatly with associated bag. I removed radiator for easier access. Only stinker is that Crank Pulley Bolt. I had to purchase the correct tool from Amazon. Took me 2 days, 10 1/2 hrs and I am 76 years old. Chap
 

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You can check the timing to confirm that's your problem or not before committing to taking the whole thing apart and replacing the belt. You put the crank at the right spot and then remove a few things so you can pull back the timing covers and see where the cams are. You don't have to drain the coolant or anything. I've got an old thread on here somewhere where I inspected mine and confirmed the belt slipped. I hate working under pressure so if it were me I'd do that before I got into a job I had to finish especially if it's on a weekend when a dealer or parts shop might not be open (happens to me every time). All these comments are for an 02 Sequoia but assume it's the same for the later Tundra.

My tips are:
1. Have a really good impact wrench to remove the crank bolt or you need special tools like a crank holder or a chain wrench and long breaker bar to remove that bolt. Same thing when you go to tighten it up. You need to be able to hold the crank while you torque the bolt to something really big. I forget exactly but was more than the highest reading on my torque wrench.

2. I'd recommend to pull the radiator to give yourself more room to work without being worried you'll hit it. And you won't have room for an impact gun in there if you don't remove it. It's only 4 bolts. I can't remember if 1A videos recommend removing it. I think they do. I watched all those and recommend them too. They sure make it look easy.

3. Removing the fan from the clutch was tricky because it wants to spin (not sure if yours has fan clutch or electric). Either use an impact wrench or watch a video about how to hold it with a screwdriver or something. Took me a long time the first time I did that. Not sure if 1A did anything special or they had an impact wrench to make it easy.

4. Replace the old hoses while you're there.

5. Be careful with the crank and cam position wire harness when reassembling. Put them back like you found them. They can get caught in the serpentine belt if you don't and cause problems.

6. Follow your kit directions exactly for the year model. Where you put the crank to replace the belt varies by year and the cams will want to roll over if you put it in the wrong place.

7. I separate my nuts/bolts into labeled baggies as I go because there are about 7 or 8 big steps and the bolts can start to look similar when you have a giant pile of them.

Took me a long time on my first try because I didn't have any special tools or a good impact wrench. Be patient and don't rush or you'll make mistakes and have to go back and redo it. Somebody with a reasonable amount of mechanical aptitude can do this. I wouldn't recommend it for someone that doesn't work on their own vehicle regularly. I just read Chap's notes and only now realized I took a big long post to say the same stuff. Good luck!
 

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I've been having a falter from the motor while sitting in gear and have supplanted plugs and loops without any result. I did some examination and have reached the resolution that my crankshaft belt might have slipped. I would believe this to be far-fetched yet I'm moving toward 250k miles and as far as anyone is concerned the crankshaft belt has never been supplanted.
 

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That timing belt does not need to actually jump a tooth to take the timing off. If you are not sure when it was last changed follow the suggestions on this post and others and get it done. Just be ready to replace things like hoses, serpentine belt and flush that radiator while it is out. "Enjoy the adventure"... Chap
 

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You Tube, 1A Auto three-part videos. Watch, make a step-by-step check list, bag and tag all bolts and stuff as you remove them, stack parts neatly with associated bag. I removed radiator for easier access. Only stinker is that Crank Pulley Bolt. I had to purchase the correct tool from Amazon. Took me 2 days, 10 1/2 hrs and I am 76 years old. Chap
Should have purchased the Aisin kit.
 

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Is it a belt, or a chain? If it's a belt, don't delay in changing it. It should be changed every 90k miles & can crater the engine if it fails. If it's a chain, I have no experience so can't speak to that. I have a 2002 2UZ-FE though, & it's a belt.
 
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