[Moose cat]

I installed a water pump on my 06 Tundra. When I aligned the belt marks to the camshaft and crankshaft and turned the crank two full turns, for some reason I thought the marks on belt had to line up again on the cam marks stupid me I took the belt off and tried again. Then I tried to turn the crank and it would get stuck going clockwise 180% and counter clockwise 90%. I’m lost now do not know what to do help if possible.

 

[Tundradrenalin]

take the spark plugs out, you're building compression and the crank cant turn.

 

[Moose cat]

I installed a water pump on my 06 Tundra. When I aligned the belt marks to the camshaft and crankshaft and turned the crank two full turns, for some reason I thought the marks on belt had to line up again on the cam marks stupid me I took the belt off and tried again. Then I tried to turn the crank and it would get stuck going clockwise 180% and counter clockwise 90%. I’m lost now do not know what to do help if possible.

I have all the plugs out. It sounds like it’s hitting metal, valve ?

 

[Moose cat]

I have all the plugs out. It sounds like it’s hitting metal, valve ?

Still trying to figure this web site out

 

[cheapskate]

Cant help with the belt swap but can with the search. See above your first thread where it says "Search Community"? Type something in there like timing belt and hit enter. That will show you all threads with your search words. Below is an example of a decent one that also shows links to some youtube vids of the install for Tundra belts.

Timing Belt Suggestions

Like most who has never changed a Tundra timing belt, I was confused as to what kit to buy. Prices ranged from $99 to well over $400 and I tried comparing what parts each kit contained at the best price. It was mind boggling so I took a stab in the dark then ordered the “basic” kit listed...

www.tundrasolutions.com

 

[Chappy R]

Did you label and bag the bolts as you removed them? Wrong bolt in the wrong hole can do that. Common "oops" on Model A starter bolts and I did it once on a Harley primary chain tensioner... Same symptoms... Hope it's an easer fix than that... Chap

 

[Moose cat]

Did you label and bag the bolts as you removed them? Wrong bolt in the wrong hole can do that. Common "oops" on Model A starter bolts and I did it once on a Harley primary chain tensioner... Same symptoms... Hope it's an easer fix than that... Chap

Yes the only bolts I put back on were the water pump bolts and tension belt rollers.

 

[Chappy R]

I shared your issue with my son who is a Toyota Tundra Magician. He says to stop trying to turn the crank. He feels that the timing is off and a valve dropped out of sync and is hitting a piston top. His solution remove timing belt rotate each cam a couple of times then re-set timing. Hope you haven't buttoned it up yet. He said that after the timing is set those marks don't align again for many many revelations. Be sure when the cam marks and belt are lined up, position cams then double check the crank mark from under the truck Review AA Auto You Tube (2) videos for great info. I did mine after watching those several times and it fired off on the first crank.
Better to re-do that timing than risk damaging a valve or piston. Keep us posted. Sorry for your set-back. Be patient, it's a learning experience for sure. And as always, "enjoy the adventure!" Chap

 

[Moose cat]

I shared your issue with my son who is a Toyota Tundra Magician. He says to stop trying to turn the crank. He feels that the timing is off and a valve dropped out of sync and is hitting a piston top. His solution remove timing belt rotate each cam a couple of times then re-set timing. Hope you haven't buttoned it up yet. He said that after the timing is set those marks don't align again for many many revelations. Be sure when the cam marks and belt are lined up, position cams then double check the crank mark from under the truck Review AA Auto You Tube (2) videos for great info. I did mine after watching those several times and it fired off on the first crank.
Better to re-do that timing than risk damaging a valve or piston. Keep us posted. Sorry for your set-back. Be patient, it's a learning experience for sure. And as always, "enjoy the adventure!" Chap

Thankyou for the info I’ve been reading a lot and I came to the same conclusion going to work on it again after the game.

 

[Moose cat]

Thankyou for the info I’ve been reading a lot and I came to the same conclusion going to work on it again after the game.

I tried what you said, turned the cams several times and lined all marks up. It still gets stuck about 180 % when turning clockwise I got all the plugs out to make it easy to turn the crankshaft by hand, don’t want to damage anything, any other ideas.

 

[Chappy R]

Standing in front facing the truck the engine turns clockwise. From the drivers seat looking forward it turns CCW. I assume that you are turning it in the correct direction. I know that on some engines, like the old Ford V* Flatheads, they advise not to turn it the wrong way even if you just miss the mark by a small amount. Just take it another complete revolution or two in the correct direction.
Did the cams turn OK? With the plugs out the crank should be easily turned also. Don't force anything.
Other than that brother right off the top of my head I can't think of anything. I'll probably wake up at 3:am with an idea or two...
Keep us posted

 

[Chappy R]

Moose cat, first off I have been assuming this is a V8 engine in my procedure descriptions. I am still leaning towards a stuck valve. A couple of approaches come to mind. I have a cheap, $20 bore scope that plugs into my cell phone. MIGHT be able to see with one of those which cyl is at the top of its stroke when the blockage occurs. Also might try carefully turning crank until it stops and since you have the plugs out take a long dowel or a long screw driver and put it in the spark plug holes to determine piston location. Problem is that there is probably one on each side at the top of its stroke at the same time.
I am kinda spitting in the wind here but your next step might be removing a valve cover because knowing which side is messing up would be a big plus. So that means new VC gaskets and might as well replace the spark plug gaskets while you have the VC off. Note: there are little tabs holding those SP gaskets in place. Bend the up, replace gasket, tap them flush. With the VC off have someone GENTLY rotate the crank when it is a the blockage point and maybe you can hear, or feel by placing your hand FLAT on the cams which cylinder is bumping into something.
Sorry to say this out loud, but you may be removing a head or two. Reality is that if it is, by chance, a valve it has to be reckoned with. I would be cautious if it was just freed up and then then buttoned back up and driven. I didn't say I wouldn't do that, but I bet you would rather deal with the underlying cause than have a broken something flying around inside of a cylinder.
Just don't get frustrated or discouraged. This is a blessing that it showed it's ugly head and you get it taken care of now while you have it opened up rather than becoming a story you share with a tow truck driver on the side of the road where the engine went belly-up. Every new adventure is a learning experience, and usually a pain in the butt. Hope this has been some help. Where are you located? There may be someone on this Forum nearby willing to help you chase this issue down.
By the way I woke up at 3:am as predicted... LOL Chap

 

[Tundradrenalin]

Correct, do not turn it the opposite direction.

 

[Moose cat]

Moose cat, first off I have been assuming this is a V8 engine in my procedure descriptions. I am still leaning towards a stuck valve. A couple of approaches come to mind. I have a cheap, $20 bore scope that plugs into my cell phone. MIGHT be able to see with one of those which cyl is at the top of its stroke when the blockage occurs. Also might try carefully turning crank until it stops and since you have the plugs out take a long dowel or a long screw driver and put it in the spark plug holes to determine piston location. Problem is that there is probably one on each side at the top of its stroke at the same time.
I am kinda spitting in the wind here but your next step might be removing a valve cover because knowing which side is messing up would be a big plus. So that means new VC gaskets and might as well replace the spark plug gaskets while you have the VC off. Note: there are little tabs holding those SP gaskets in place. Bend the up, replace gasket, tap them flush. With the VC off have someone GENTLY rotate the crank when it is a the blockage point and maybe you can hear, or feel by placing your hand FLAT on the cams which cylinder is bumping into something.
Sorry to say this out loud, but you may be removing a head or two. Reality is that if it is, by chance, a valve it has to be reckoned with. I would be cautious if it was just freed up and then then buttoned back up and driven. I didn't say I wouldn't do that, but I bet you would rather deal with the underlying cause than have a broken something flying around inside of a cylinder.
Just don't get frustrated or discouraged. This is a blessing that it showed it's ugly head and you get it taken care of now while you have it opened up rather than becoming a story you share with a tow truck driver on the side of the road where the engine went belly-up. Every new adventure is a learning experience, and usually a pain in the butt. Hope this has been some help. Where are you located? There may be someone on this Forum nearby willing to help you chase this issue down.
By the way I woke up at 3:am as predicted... LOL Chap

Well I guess I will take the VC covers off and see what I can find.

Moose cat, first off I have been assuming this is a V8 engine in my procedure descriptions. I am still leaning towards a stuck valve. A couple of approaches come to mind. I have a cheap, $20 bore scope that plugs into my cell phone. MIGHT be able to see with one of those which cyl is at the top of its stroke when the blockage occurs. Also might try carefully turning crank until it stops and since you have the plugs out take a long dowel or a long screw driver and put it in the spark plug holes to determine piston location. Problem is that there is probably one on each side at the top of its stroke at the same time.
I am kinda spitting in the wind here but your next step might be removing a valve cover because knowing which side is messing up would be a big plus. So that means new VC gaskets and might as well replace the spark plug gaskets while you have the VC off. Note: there are little tabs holding those SP gaskets in place. Bend the up, replace gasket, tap them flush. With the VC off have someone GENTLY rotate the crank when it is a the blockage point and maybe you can hear, or feel by placing your hand FLAT on the cams which cylinder is bumping into something.
Sorry to say this out loud, but you may be removing a head or two. Reality is that if it is, by chance, a valve it has to be reckoned with. I would be cautious if it was just freed up and then then buttoned back up and driven. I didn't say I wouldn't do that, but I bet you would rather deal with the underlying cause than have a broken something flying around inside of a cylinder.
Just don't get frustrated or discouraged. This is a blessing that it showed it's ugly head and you get it taken care of now while you have it opened up rather than becoming a story you share with a tow truck driver on the side of the road where the engine went belly-up. Every new adventure is a learning experience, and usually a pain in the butt. Hope this has been some help. Where are you located? There may be someone on this Forum nearby willing to help you chase this issue down.
By the way I woke up at 3:am as predicted... LOL Chap

)

Moose cat, first off I have been assuming this is a V8 engine in my procedure descriptions. I am still leaning towards a stuck valve. A couple of approaches come to mind. I have a cheap, $20 bore scope that plugs into my cell phone. MIGHT be able to see with one of those which cyl is at the top of its stroke when the blockage occurs. Also might try carefully turning crank until it stops and since you have the plugs out take a long dowel or a long screw driver and put it in the spark plug holes to determine piston location. Problem is that there is probably one on each side at the top of its stroke at the same time.
I am kinda spitting in the wind here but your next step might be removing a valve cover because knowing which side is messing up would be a big plus. So that means new VC gaskets and might as well replace the spark plug gaskets while you have the VC off. Note: there are little tabs holding those SP gaskets in place. Bend the up, replace gasket, tap them flush. With the VC off have someone GENTLY rotate the crank when it is a the blockage point and maybe you can hear, or feel by placing your hand FLAT on the cams which cylinder is bumping into something.
Sorry to say this out loud, but you may be removing a head or two. Reality is that if it is, by chance, a valve it has to be reckoned with. I would be cautious if it was just freed up and then then buttoned back up and driven. I didn't say I wouldn't do that, but I bet you would rather deal with the underlying cause than have a broken something flying around inside of a cylinder.
Just don't get frustrated or discouraged. This is a blessing that it showed it's ugly head and you get it taken care of now while you have it opened up rather than becoming a story you share with a tow truck driver on the side of the road where the engine went belly-up. Every new adventure is a learning experience, and usually a pain in the butt. Hope this has been some help. Where are you located? There may be someone on this Forum nearby willing to help you chase this issue down.
By the way I woke up at 3:am as predicted... LOL Chap
Well I guess I’ll take the VC covers off and see what’s going on. I order a camera so with the covers off it might make it a little easier to look into. Ty very much for all the info, wish me luck lol PS were in Montana where are you

 

[Moose cat]

Well I guess I will take the VC covers off and see what I can find.

)

 

[Chappy R]

Consider it a "bonding experience", you know, "Being one with the Tundra." Keep us posted... Chap

 

[Moose cat]

Consider it a "bonding experience", you know, "Being one with the Tundra." Keep us posted... Champ

Chappy, is your first name Ron? My is Steve. I took the valve covers off and I think it’s the # 2 Piston. It’s the only one that will not reach TDC and start down. I have a camera coming soon. Ask your son if he thinks it could be the oil pump. Is there neutral position for cams. I really do not want to give up but running out of ideas.q

 

[Chappy R]

Making progress, that's great. My son is out of town but I will text him your question. I can't imagine how a bad oil pump would impact cam operation...But? I also cannot see how a cam would have a "neutral position". It is a constantly moving part that is always causing a valve to raise or lower in the proper sequence.
Now, with #2 being halted in it's cycle my first thought goes to a bad/broken valve keeper or a broken valve spring. Something let go and allowed that valve to drop into the cylinder. Now the valve, without spring pressure to hold it straight or return to it's position in the valve seat has cocked a bit and brings the whole engineered mechanical operation to a halt. Doesn't take much.
If there were no signs of a problem before you opened it up to replace the water pump, etc.it might be that it was just hanging on by a thread and releasing pressure on the cam when the timing belt was removed allowed a spring keeper to let go. Removing that head (more new gaskets) will have to be done to see what is going on. I know that you didn't want to hear that but I would not run that engine, even if you could get the valve back in place without a peek into that cylinder. The scope camera will give you a peek, but personally I would take it a step further.
There are always "unknowns" and "what if's" with these adventures. Better to know if the valve is bent? If the valve stem damaged the head, the piston or the cylinder wall??? Remember if you get the head off and are not comfortable deciding what to do next take the head to a machine shop and get their opinion.
OK Forum folks, any other thoughts for Steve?.....Way to hang in there Brother... Chap (Richard)