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Timing belt

4K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  Chappy R 
#1 ·
I installed a water pump on my 06 Tundra. When I aligned the belt marks to the camshaft and crankshaft and turned the crank two full turns, for some reason I thought the marks on belt had to line up again on the cam marks stupid me I took the belt off and tried again. Then I tried to turn the crank and it would get stuck going clockwise 180% and counter clockwise 90%. I’m lost now do not know what to do help if possible.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I installed a water pump on my 06 Tundra. When I aligned the belt marks to the camshaft and crankshaft and turned the crank two full turns, for some reason I thought the marks on belt had to line up again on the cam marks stupid me I took the belt off and tried again. Then I tried to turn the crank and it would get stuck going clockwise 180% and counter clockwise 90%. I’m lost now do not know what to do help if possible.
I have all the plugs out. It sounds like it’s hitting metal, valve ?
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Did you label and bag the bolts as you removed them? Wrong bolt in the wrong hole can do that. Common "oops" on Model A starter bolts and I did it once on a Harley primary chain tensioner... Same symptoms... Hope it's an easer fix than that... Chap
Yes the only bolts I put back on were the water pump bolts and tension belt rollers.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I shared your issue with my son who is a Toyota Tundra Magician. He says to stop trying to turn the crank. He feels that the timing is off and a valve dropped out of sync and is hitting a piston top. His solution remove timing belt rotate each cam a couple of times then re-set timing. Hope you haven't buttoned it up yet. He said that after the timing is set those marks don't align again for many many revelations. Be sure when the cam marks and belt are lined up, position cams then double check the crank mark from under the truck Review AA Auto You Tube (2) videos for great info. I did mine after watching those several times and it fired off on the first crank.
Better to re-do that timing than risk damaging a valve or piston. Keep us posted. Sorry for your set-back. Be patient, it's a learning experience for sure. And as always, "enjoy the adventure!" Chap
Thankyou for the info I’ve been reading a lot and I came to the same conclusion going to work on it again after the game.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thankyou for the info I’ve been reading a lot and I came to the same conclusion going to work on it again after the game.
I tried what you said, turned the cams several times and lined all marks up. It still gets stuck about 180 % when turning clockwise I got all the plugs out to make it easy to turn the crankshaft by hand, don’t want to damage anything, any other ideas.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Moose cat, first off I have been assuming this is a V8 engine in my procedure descriptions. I am still leaning towards a stuck valve. A couple of approaches come to mind. I have a cheap, $20 bore scope that plugs into my cell phone. MIGHT be able to see with one of those which cyl is at the top of its stroke when the blockage occurs. Also might try carefully turning crank until it stops and since you have the plugs out take a long dowel or a long screw driver and put it in the spark plug holes to determine piston location. Problem is that there is probably one on each side at the top of its stroke at the same time.
I am kinda spitting in the wind here but your next step might be removing a valve cover because knowing which side is messing up would be a big plus. So that means new VC gaskets and might as well replace the spark plug gaskets while you have the VC off. Note: there are little tabs holding those SP gaskets in place. Bend the up, replace gasket, tap them flush. With the VC off have someone GENTLY rotate the crank when it is a the blockage point and maybe you can hear, or feel by placing your hand FLAT on the cams which cylinder is bumping into something.
Sorry to say this out loud, but you may be removing a head or two. Reality is that if it is, by chance, a valve it has to be reckoned with. I would be cautious if it was just freed up and then then buttoned back up and driven. I didn't say I wouldn't do that, but I bet you would rather deal with the underlying cause than have a broken something flying around inside of a cylinder.
Just don't get frustrated or discouraged. This is a blessing that it showed it's ugly head and you get it taken care of now while you have it opened up rather than becoming a story you share with a tow truck driver on the side of the road where the engine went belly-up. Every new adventure is a learning experience, and usually a pain in the butt. Hope this has been some help. Where are you located? There may be someone on this Forum nearby willing to help you chase this issue down.
By the way I woke up at 3:am as predicted... LOL Chap
Well I guess I will take the VC covers off and see what I can find.
Moose cat, first off I have been assuming this is a V8 engine in my procedure descriptions. I am still leaning towards a stuck valve. A couple of approaches come to mind. I have a cheap, $20 bore scope that plugs into my cell phone. MIGHT be able to see with one of those which cyl is at the top of its stroke when the blockage occurs. Also might try carefully turning crank until it stops and since you have the plugs out take a long dowel or a long screw driver and put it in the spark plug holes to determine piston location. Problem is that there is probably one on each side at the top of its stroke at the same time.
I am kinda spitting in the wind here but your next step might be removing a valve cover because knowing which side is messing up would be a big plus. So that means new VC gaskets and might as well replace the spark plug gaskets while you have the VC off. Note: there are little tabs holding those SP gaskets in place. Bend the up, replace gasket, tap them flush. With the VC off have someone GENTLY rotate the crank when it is a the blockage point and maybe you can hear, or feel by placing your hand FLAT on the cams which cylinder is bumping into something.
Sorry to say this out loud, but you may be removing a head or two. Reality is that if it is, by chance, a valve it has to be reckoned with. I would be cautious if it was just freed up and then then buttoned back up and driven. I didn't say I wouldn't do that, but I bet you would rather deal with the underlying cause than have a broken something flying around inside of a cylinder.
Just don't get frustrated or discouraged. This is a blessing that it showed it's ugly head and you get it taken care of now while you have it opened up rather than becoming a story you share with a tow truck driver on the side of the road where the engine went belly-up. Every new adventure is a learning experience, and usually a pain in the butt. Hope this has been some help. Where are you located? There may be someone on this Forum nearby willing to help you chase this issue down.
By the way I woke up at 3:am as predicted... LOL Chap
)
Moose cat, first off I have been assuming this is a V8 engine in my procedure descriptions. I am still leaning towards a stuck valve. A couple of approaches come to mind. I have a cheap, $20 bore scope that plugs into my cell phone. MIGHT be able to see with one of those which cyl is at the top of its stroke when the blockage occurs. Also might try carefully turning crank until it stops and since you have the plugs out take a long dowel or a long screw driver and put it in the spark plug holes to determine piston location. Problem is that there is probably one on each side at the top of its stroke at the same time.
I am kinda spitting in the wind here but your next step might be removing a valve cover because knowing which side is messing up would be a big plus. So that means new VC gaskets and might as well replace the spark plug gaskets while you have the VC off. Note: there are little tabs holding those SP gaskets in place. Bend the up, replace gasket, tap them flush. With the VC off have someone GENTLY rotate the crank when it is a the blockage point and maybe you can hear, or feel by placing your hand FLAT on the cams which cylinder is bumping into something.
Sorry to say this out loud, but you may be removing a head or two. Reality is that if it is, by chance, a valve it has to be reckoned with. I would be cautious if it was just freed up and then then buttoned back up and driven. I didn't say I wouldn't do that, but I bet you would rather deal with the underlying cause than have a broken something flying around inside of a cylinder.
Just don't get frustrated or discouraged. This is a blessing that it showed it's ugly head and you get it taken care of now while you have it opened up rather than becoming a story you share with a tow truck driver on the side of the road where the engine went belly-up. Every new adventure is a learning experience, and usually a pain in the butt. Hope this has been some help. Where are you located? There may be someone on this Forum nearby willing to help you chase this issue down.
By the way I woke up at 3:am as predicted... LOL Chap
Well I guess I’ll take the VC covers off and see what’s going on. I order a camera so with the covers off it might make it a little easier to look into. Ty very much for all the info, wish me luck lol PS were in Montana where are you
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Consider it a "bonding experience", you know, "Being one with the Tundra." Keep us posted... Champ
Chappy, is your first name Ron? My is Steve. I took the valve covers off and I think it’s the # 2 Piston. It’s the only one that will not reach TDC and start down. I have a camera coming soon. Ask your son if he thinks it could be the oil pump. Is there neutral position for cams. I really do not want to give up but running out of ideas.q
 
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