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Discussion Starter #1
It has been a while since I did this-- is there a trick to getting the Tundra ones off? I just can't get them to budge.

No the parking brake is not on.
 

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The drums have threaded holes into which bolts can be inserted to push the drum off the hub. I have not done this, but rather, I use thin strips of emery cloth to sand down the portion of the hub which protrudes through the center of the drum. The rust on this protrusion is mostly responsible for keeping the drum on the hub. After sanding, a little penetrating oil on the center hub and working the drum back and forth will eventually work it loose.
 

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The drums have threaded holes into which bolts can be inserted to push the drum off the hub. I have not done this, but rather, I use thin strips of emery cloth to sand down the portion of the hub which protrudes through the center of the drum. The rust on this protrusion is mostly responsible for keeping the drum on the hub. After sanding, a little penetrating oil on the center hub and working the drum back and forth will eventually work it loose.
^ +2.

Also, if corrosion doesn't seem like the culprit, oftentimes it will require a backing off of the brake shoes as they can get locked into a groove in the drum. The adjusting wheel can be accessed via the oval port (usually with a rubber plug installed to keep the dirt out) TDC on the back of the wheel. It will require two instruments: any thin tool similar to a dentist's pick with a 90[FONT=&quot]°[/FONT] bend in the end to push away the adjuster retention tab, and a small screwdriver to back the star adjuster off some. I attached a pic of the procedure.

I also attached a PDF that shows detail of the assembly. The last page (page 25) has a great up-close picture of the star adjuster and the little tab you need to push.

HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The drums have threaded holes into which bolts can be inserted to push the drum off the hub. I have not done this, but rather, I use thin strips of emery cloth to sand down the portion of the hub which protrudes through the center of the drum. The rust on this protrusion is mostly responsible for keeping the drum on the hub. After sanding, a little penetrating oil on the center hub and working the drum back and forth will eventually work it loose.
You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. Thanks for the help.

I had to use the bolt holes to get them off... about an hours worth of work to find that they have nearly as much pad left as the new pads I bought.

Do I adjust the brake proportioning valve down to put a little more pressure to the rears?

Does that even sound like a good idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
^ +2.

Also, if corrosion doesn't seem like the culprit, oftentimes it will require a backing off of the brake shoes as they can get locked into a groove in the drum. The adjusting wheel can be accessed via the oval port (usually with a rubber plug installed to keep the dirt out) TDC on the back of the wheel. It will require two instruments: any thin tool similar to a dentist's pick with a 90[FONT=&quot]°[/FONT] bend in the end to push away the adjuster retention tab, and a small screwdriver to back the star adjuster off some.

I attached a PDF that shows detail of the assembly. The last page (page 25) has a great up-close picture of the star adjuster and the little tab you need to push.

HTH.
Thanks. I am going to mark this with a subscription for the next time when I actually do need to change the rears...
 

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i have found that the secret to the rears brakes is to use the parking brake often. they have adjusters that are engaged by the parking brake.

You will get better braking and even wear.
 

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Adjusting the brake proportioning valve sounds like a no-no to me brother, as altering OEM braking characteristics seems best left in the hands of the folks who designed it. That being said perhaps there is a maintenance ramification to this I am not experienced with. Perhaps my brother DuffyAtkinson can field this.
 

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hi, it's simple.
i used to be a mechanic back in the old days.
2 way's:
1- use 2 heavy duty regular skrew driver's and put them at 9 & 3 o'clock and wiggle it off. pull towards you,1 at a time.
2- just use a 5lb hammer. and hit it. 1 shot at 7 and 1shot at 5 o'clock.
belive me it will come off.
unless you adjusted them so tight. them you will have to use 2 skrew drivers and spin the adjuster the other way. 1 holding the back plate that holds the adjuster in place. if you push it back it will make the adjuster turn either way. make sure your going the right way.
gorilla
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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Adjusting the brake proportioning valve sounds like a no-no to me brother, as altering OEM braking characteristics seems best left in the hands of the folks who designed it. That being said perhaps there is a maintenance ramification to this I am not experienced with. Perhaps my brother DuffyAtkinson can field this.
You're exactly right. The Load-Sensing Braking & Proportioning Valve (LSB&PV) is a very sensitive component to the braking system that requires brake system pressurization and vehicle weighing equipment not normally found in a home shop. Any adjustments to this component should definitely be made by a professional brake service center or the dealer.

For more info, PM member Evang in the brake forum.

Duffy
 

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Didn't you guys adjust it when you lifted your trucks?
I purchased my truck used with the lift (1" Wheeler's rear block) already installed. I had it checked by the dealer. I rarely carry more than a few hundred pounds in the bed, so I don't think I bump up against the margins that might be more inclined to show any misadjustment.

To give you an idea of the component's sensitivity, one 360 degree turn on the adjusting nut correlates to 11 pressure/lbs of braking force.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I am just going to throw out there that when I did the suspension on my '04 Tacoma it was generally accepted that you adjust your rear brake proportioning valve when you lift your truck...
 

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^ +2.

Also, if corrosion doesn't seem like the culprit, oftentimes it will require a backing off of the brake shoes as they can get locked into a groove in the drum. The adjusting wheel can be accessed via the oval port (usually with a rubber plug installed to keep the dirt out) TDC on the back of the wheel. It will require two instruments: any thin tool similar to a dentist's pick with a 90[FONT=&quot]°[/FONT] bend in the end to push away the adjuster retention tab, and a small screwdriver to back the star adjuster off some. I attached a pic of the procedure.

I also attached a PDF that shows detail of the assembly. The last page (page 25) has a great up-close picture of the star adjuster and the little tab you need to push.

HTH.

this is very informative! personally, i also am a member of the "hammer club." i think i was born into the "hammer club" by default. i am also an honorary member of the "wire club" and the "duct tape club" too. i can see, as mentioned above, where this would be very useful when the pads have worn a groove in the drums. another example of a picture being worth a 1,000 words. :tu:
 

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Hammer club for me too, has never really failed except in extreme cases where the drums rusted or really stuck on.

If anything its always been accepted with any Toyota with the LSPV to adjust it the height of your lift to make sure you have close to stock braking differentiation of the front and rear systems.
 

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Heck, I added a leaf to my T100's pack and simply got a pc of flat stainless and drilled holes for a 1 inch lift, works great and was like 2 bucks.
 
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