My dealer wants $22.00 to rotate. Yeah, I think we're getting the shaft. They told me the rotations had to be made within 500 miles of the 5000 mark everytime and had to be done by them for the 100,000 miles tire warranty. I'll just rotate my own tires and buy new ones when I need them. This is one of those Gulf States Toyota add ons that cost up front but isn't worth a dime.my dealer wants $19.99 to rotate my tires every 5000 miles. they say i have to do it there to keep my warranty. am i getting the shaft?
If YOU let them they will like you!! OEM tires will only get around 30K and if you could afford to upgrade i would recommed it ASAP! as long as you document your DIY Maintenance they will have no leg to hobble on when it comes to most DIY maintenance/warranty claims!! Save all oil, filter, lube reciepts and have yourself a journal on what ya did and when ya did it! Torque wrenches are cheap and 83 Ft Lb on 06 DC lug nuts can be done by most!!my dealer wants $19.99 to rotate my tires every 5000 miles. they say i have to do it there to keep my warranty. am i getting the shaft?
Some are. Both of my Toyotas came with the 100K tire warranty under the Extra Mile package. Toyota will reimburse up to $200 a tire due to failure or premature wear. I get free oil changes with my Toy's and the $15 rotation with the free oil is worth it to me.tires are not covered by warranty anyways. does not matter if it was a blowout or a flat, they are not covered because they are a "wearing item".
I've always done my own oil changes and tire rotations. But, when you buy a new truck and pay for option package C (not negotiable) that includes 100K /6 year tire warranty, it's worth a look and some calculations to see if it's beneficial to you. In 100K miles, I'd rotate tires 20 times at $22 a pop is $440.00 max payout. Not bad when you know the tires won't last 100K. The kicker for me is that I'm liable to be anywhere in OK or Tx when my mileage comes up and I also don't have time (don't want to take the time) to have my tires rotated by the dealer. The last time I let someone rotate my tires they cross threaded a lug nut and hammered it on with an impact. I didn't find out about it until I had a flat and had to tow the truck in because the stud was stripped and I had to split the nut. For some people this is a good deal, for me, it's not. I've also got a glove box full of free oil change coupons. Too bad they have my VIN number on them or I'd give them to someone that'd use them.do your self a floor jack and some jack stands and 20mins later your done
:ts: DJ... That's exactly what I did.I have always used the "Modified X" rotation. The rear tires move straight to the front, and the front tires cross to the rear.
There are good reasons for using this pattern. Primarily, each tire spends the same amount of miles on each end and on each side of the vehicle, which makes the wear much more uniform.
In more detail, though, consider what happens to a tire on the front. It experiences at least four times the braking force as tires on the rear, which tends to wear the tread lugs such that the forward edge is rounded and the trailing edge is feathered. It's easy to see and to feel; just rub your hands fore-and-aft along the tread surface. Moving a front tire to the opposite rear position stops that wear and begins to reverse it, but it does so much more gently than by simply swapping it to the opposite front position. After it has reversed a bit, the next rotation moves it to the front position on the same side, and the wear reverses. The net effect is even wear overall without extreme wear at any given time.
My wife's Sequoia has 44,000 miles on a set of Michelin LTX M/S in P265/70R16. They are wearing quite evenly and should reach the wear indicators after 120,000 miles of use.
On page 461 of my manual under the "Rotating Tires" section, it says:I see nothing in the manual about the tps and rotating tires. What I do see is that you need to reset it if you change the tire pressure.
This is a good way to rotate. But you have to make sure that you don't have directional tread on your tires. If you have directional tread then you have to keep the tire on the same side of the vehicle. In that case only use the front to back rotation.I have always used the "Modified X" rotation. The rear tires move straight to the front, and the front tires cross to the rear.
On page 461 of my manual under the "Rotating Tires" section, it says:
"Initial adjustment of the tire pressure warning system is necessary after you have rotated your tires. See “Tire pressure warning system” in Section 1-7."
Page 208 is the start of section 1-7, which talks about the TPS, and on 212 it tells you the steps to reset it. On that page it also says you need to reset it after you rotate tires with the text "After replacing or rotating tires or wheels". So they seem pretty adamant about it being done if they mention it in several places.