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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 04 dc with leveling kit, and ar rims that are offset... i currently run 285/75/16 bfg a/t ko's... i guess i like them but i have a slight vibration and ive tried everything... Im tired of steering wheel vib and watching my passenger seat shake... so tire time any suggestions on brand, logevity, or should i downsize which i like the look but if needed then ok.... will it help mpg?
 

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Not to be biased or anything...but.... Firestone Destination A/T. They have been the best tire so far for me, and I have had nearly all of them! IIWY, I would down size to 265/75/R16. You'll see better gas mileage and not much of a diffenrence off road. BUT, it's your truck..good luck!
 

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I'd try a balance, first...look inside each wheel, there should only be ONE location on the inside of the wheel with weighs attached, and the weight should be minimal. If you see weights in multiple locations, or a lot of weight in general, get them balanced again. Any good shop should be able to balance them properly, if that's the issue.

If that is not the problem, look to your alignment...caster should be around +2.0 degrees, camber +0.25 degrees, toe +0.04 degrees, each side exactly the same as the other.

I'm guessing that those aftermarket wheels are centered by tapered lug nuts, so mounting to the truck, and balancing, shouldn't be an issue...but if the shop was chasing weights, or used an excess of weight when they needed to turn the tire on the wheel, or if it's not aligned properly...those items can cause a shimmy.

-Sean
 

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did your wheels come with tapered lug nuts or re using the toyota lug nuts? if your not using tapered lug nuts and your wheels are not hub centric that could be your problem. i would say most likely it is a weight issue. good luck.

Andrew
 

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The Tire Guy
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Balance first if the shake continues next rotate them. If you feel the shake more in the rear ( the seat will shake more) then you could have a separation or some sort of failure in one of the original steer tires. It should be noticed when they balance them first but not all the time, also like the others said check to make sure that the wheels are installed properly. If they center on the lugs instead of the hubs there could be a installation issue. How old are your tires and what is the tread depth? Good luck
 

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Had SEVERAL sets of BFG A/T's and never had an issue whether stock or oversized. I did have a wheel bearing go on me that I thought was a balancing issue at first. After a rebalance and rotate the dealer put a stethoscope on the faulty corner and changed it out for me, problem solved.
 

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The Tire Guy
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With a wheel bearing you should hear a roaring sound more than mimicking a balance issue, at least the ones I've come across? Start with the simple things first, could be just a bad tire or a balance issue. Another thing could be if he is running spacers, the little 1/4 " ones so he wouldn't rub in the front? Me and Cypressknee both had a wheel shake caused by those things. Does the shake come in and out at a certain speed or is it a shake at all speeds? If its in and out more like a balance, constant would lean more to the bad tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea there American racing rims I can't remember the model. I'm not familliar with hubcentic term and how do I know if they are? Yes I have tapered lug nuts. Tire depth are about 6/32 tires are worn perfectly I get alignment so often because I have free alignments it better be right haha. Balanced less than 2 weeks ago at SAMs guy seemed really knowledge there's just a few sticky weights on each Aldo do I really need load e tires on the tundra?
 

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Go down to a shop that does load force balancing, you may surprised how out of balance they are.
+1

Also here is a long shot: did you rotate the tires (front to back) and the vibration got better or worse. You can isolate which tire(s) are bad. Once I had some water in the tire, it balanced ok, however once on the road it wibrated like a %^&^%$#
 

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The Tire Guy
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No, you don't need load range E tires, but what do you use your trk for? Our trks came stock with p-metric or standard load, which will give you a good soft ride but not much on the business end and will wear fast if you do any heavy hauling or towing. Next up is a 6ply or load range C, which will give you greater load carrying and still have a decent ride quality. Next is the 8 ply or load range D, then 10ply or load range E. The later 2 will ride harder and carry more load, 3/4 ton trucks come standard with load range E because of the weight of the truck and so it will be more capable hauling and towing. As you get to larger tires, some are only offered in a 10ply, and then there are some sizes only offered in a p-metric. I run 285/75r16 dest m/ts that are only offered now in a 10ply, at one time you could get them in an 8 ply tire too. According to the Firestone spec book you can run 35psi in a 10ply tire like mine, however the weight the tire will handle is a lot less than the weight it will handle at 75psi. I run 35-40 daily, and haven't had any unusual wear, when I am under a load I'll pump them up to about 55-60psi. I hope that answers your question about if you need that load range or not, basically figure out what you use your truck for and choose from there, remember too that some sizes are only offered in certain load ranges.( notice how most of your larger, 33" up, are only offered in 8 or 10 ply)

As for your shake issue, 1) go rotate your tires to isolate the shake. Myself and a few other guys have said this already and its going to be the less costly path to go. 2) Road force or load force balance the tires to see truly how your tires are balanced. We don't have a machine at our shop that does that type of balance, but after a few of the guys here swearing by it I decided to read up on it, it's the most accurate way to get you tires balanced and if its available to you DO IT!
Those are your 2 options to at least get you started on solving your shake issue, you could just buy 4 brand new tires but then you wouldn't find out what the problem was and it could be more than a balance or tire issue but I doubt it. It really sounds like a bad tire or bad balance. I'm curious to know the outcome on this one so keep us posted!! Hope this helped
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ill check into that load force balancing.. i got the tires used but have had them for awile now and its just recently i noticed the shake.. and its not hard at all guys thats why i figured its something goofy... i looked on the american racing site and the rims that look like mine are the element line... except i know mine are a few years old and i dont have all that chrome.. mines grey teflon and just chrome lip. the tires were load e not by choice but thats just what was available to me at a deal..... im looking into geting tires soon bfg offers 285's in d or e... i dont know if ill be able to notice the difference... as far as towing, i have an 18ft bass boat but im in college so its not so often and rarly long trips, and a utility trailer that i keep 3 atvs on... but im in flat florida anyways.. ... i do take it offroad every now and then and bounce around. one tire shop keeps saying toyo open country a/t's another bfg a/t's or wrangler duratrac... which ill admit id love a more aggresive tire but dont want to sacrifice the miles out of the tire, and how much louder is it going tobe?!?
 

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You're running bfg's now they are a good tire. Look into the cooper S/T, I ran them in a pmetric 265 and a 8ply 285 both were awesome tires. The p didn't last long for me though, I blew one out on a hunting trip in Texas, limped home on the spare and went to the 285 8ply. There is an outside salesman at my shop that runs them and he's getting 60k rotating every 5k, with about 85% on the highway and the rest at his farm or camp. They ride great with about as much road noise that you're getting now, and these things PULL!!! The tread design is more like something between the bfg you have now and a heavy mud tire, you'll love them. They are different looking, kinda how the duratracs are different. I'll let you know what we are getting for tomorrow so you'll have an idea of what kinda money you are looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so the deal is i have a bent rim! american racing victor series.. if anyone has these i will pay good money for these i need a min of 1
 

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Go down to a shop that does load force balancing, you may surprised how out of balance they are.
I agree, load force (i've also heard it called road force) can make a huge difference. I usually ask to have this done when I have new tires mounted so I know it is good to go right from the start. Good luck :)
 

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Rep points to hofkamp83. Thanks for describing the diff in hub centric vs not...
I have Yoko's Geolander 275/75/17's on my '04 DC LTD. They were on it when I bought it used from a dealer. I will be replacing them with the same brand when it's time. Smooth and quiet ride at 34 p.s.i., (not loaded). When I have some weight in the bed, I'll increase the psi a little and the tires handle well. I had to have the dealer do a four tire alignment and balance the tires, (did not do it prior to my purchase). Had to take it back the second time because the front tires were still not balanced correctly.
 
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